Indeed an interesting thread an I must admit that I've been going cross-eyed extracting as much information from your two images as I can. A very challenging dilemma. I can't speak for the glazing. It's not my area of expertise. I'm inclined to agree with other comments in this thread re leaning towards internal window treatments. The long raking window at top presents special challenges and as Envirotecture has indicated it would meaning being open to the consideration of framing your view somewhat. Here are some ideas which might be worth considering. 1. A fixed curtain for the upper raking window. Given the room is very much about light, a sheer, though not providing the same insulating properties as curtains or heavier drapery, would nevertheless, provide some insulating benefit from the air-gapping effect. A fixed curtain (sheer or otherwise) is likely to be one of the cheaper components in the options I'm listing. 2. It's hard to tell from the images how much more the 'conventional' rectangular space beyond the couch extends. Assuming it does not extend the entire length of the side of the house you have a number of options available to you here. Options which could Include Soft Roman Blinds fronting on sunscreen roller blinds. Pelmets would provide substantive insulating benefits, but it is difficult to see from the image whether they would suit, and whether you would have sufficient height, or 'any height' above that window in which to mount them so as to minimise the loss of window view due to the stacking up of the Roman. The sunscreen rollers are less problematic in that regard and provide some insulation while still allowing light when the Romans are not lowered. If opting at any stage for Romans, ensure they are properly lined with pre-stiffened Roman Lining which provides better insulation, but almost more importantly, will not sag over time such is the case with many Romans that are lined with much cheaper curtain lining which is not pre-stiffened and does not afford the same degree of insulation. 3. Along the main alfresco expanse where the table is located, and under the previously proposed location of the fixed curtains along the raking window, a motorised or hand traversed S-Fold or Wave curtain fronting, yet again, more thermal sunscreen roller-blinds could present an attractive modern look in keeping with the modern style of the room and house. Of course, an issue is going to be stack-back when the curtains are open, however, the double layered protection of both a Wave or S-Fold curtain and Roller Blinds will provide superior insulating benefits to tinting throughout the year (not just summer) imho. 4. Other ideas include Plantation Shutters across the raking/eve window above. I doubt very much that plantation shutters would work along the lower 'framed' area as the stack-back effect if bi-fold, or loss of view if sliding, would be too much of a sacrifice, let alone the additional consideration of the cost of such treatment used so extensively. Although, the window treatments i have suggested for possible consideration do not necessarily offer optimum insulation (eg the exclusion of pelmets or use of heavy lined drapery), I believe that you there would be some offset in terms of a positive ROI over time due to the savings you will reap on your heating/cooling bills. I'm in Melbourne which is marginally warmer, and without adequate insulating window treatments, the heat loss through the glass is substantial and the heating/cooling bills frightening. 5. That's a hell of a lot of glass to treat whether you opt for a glazing solution which will provide primary benefit during the summer or conventional internal window treatments - whether drapery or blind. Either way the solution is likely to be costly. To keep the cost down you could always consider high quality Thermal Verticals which can come in a variety of slat sizes colours and textures and provide substantive savings over the Wave or S-fold solutions with less stack-back loss. Once again ensuring you purchase high quality verticals that will hold up to the Australian sun over the long haul is important. The cheaper stuff might look good but you'll be picking slats off the floor within 5 years if you are not careful. Here is an image from one of our own projects where high quality 'chain-less' verticals were used to cover large expanses of glass throughout the house in combination with thermal roller blinds. Of course, this treatment or the use of Wave/S-fold curtains would only provide part of the overall solution you require. 6. The only solution I didn't yet mention is the use of folding arm awnings. While they would provide benefits during the summer, they would be more than likely at the expense of your expansive view (or part thereof). Quality awnings whether manually operated or motorised are also costly. The only other comment I might make is that internal blind and curtain window treatments provide you with a high degree of flexibility. Romans, for example work well in combination with many other window treatments, either along side them, or in combination with each other in the context of the same window. The same can be said for the other treatments I have mentioned. The internal window treatments suggested can also facilitate the ability to support a style transition from one room or area to the next. - An important consideration if the house is of a uniform style throughout and you are wanting to 'mix it up a bit' or transition to styles that vary yet compliment the primary style or look you may have throughout the house. I'm sorry, it is difficult offering suggestions based on your two images, even though they are of good quality and detailed. I don't envy you with this 'design dilemma' ... though it certainly gets my vote as one of the more challenging ones I have seen in recent times, and in an area/topic where I felt I could contribute.

Hi there, and congratulations on your house and plans - they look fantastic, really functional. We're just at the pointy end of planning for our renovation - it's taken 12 months to get us to the point of submitting for lur building permit. We're doing a small ground floor extension to add a bedroom and small study, plus reconfiguring our wet areas for a larger main bath, laundry and new powder room. Oh and we'll be rebuilding an old elevated deck and adding a fixed roof to part of it. We're currently trying to decide if we should go the owner builder route also, and also for budget reasons. We have a good friend who is a builder who is helping us, and tbh, i don't think we'd consider doing O/B without his advice/contacts, even though he says that our build is mostly carpentry. I've just heard and read so many horror stories of O/B builds going terribly over budget or time. And ours looks to be a much more straightforward job than yours. That said, if you puf a LOT of time into planning and educating yourself on what's required, and you're prepared to take your time and roll with the punches, i do think you can save a heap doing the project management yourself. One good tip from our builder friend regarding getting trades to quote - use people whose work is recommended, send a bcc email to everyone you want to invite tenders from, then set a site visit open time for any trades who wish to come and check it out - will save you a heap of time and hassle and the ones who show up will be the ones you'll want to do the job anyway.

Hi Alex and Christie, I am installing a kitchen this week using a product I have used before and that I really like. It's Mirostone - a 100% acrylic product which feels and looks just like the reconstituted stone - it even feels cold like stone - yet it's much cheaper than any reconstituted stone I have found. Being 100% acrylic it's not porous which also means it's very hygienic. It's resilient to marks and staining so will be good for rolling out pastry dough. However, it should be treated with care like any benchtop and a chopping board or hot surface board used when required. Marks and stains can be easily sand-papered away - that's right, sandpaper - but because the stone colour goes through to the base, you aren't left with a discoloured patch. It only comes in 7 colours from white to grey, but it's a really nice product. I believe it is available Australia-wide from the distributors in Adelaide (where I am based). Good luck. Cheers, Penelope

BASIX is designed to improve the energy savings and comfort of your home so it's much better to include this in the whole design instead of attempting to fix it at the end and you can't apply for building approval without a proper BASIX certificate lodged with the new plans so you need to clarify this issue before the plans are finalised but you can't apply for BASIX certificate without making sure the design satisfies the regs so first be sure you know the exact compass directions for every external window as the BASIX ratings are different for different window directions and you may be able to use various combinations of less or smaller windows, sunscreen glass, double glazed and/or wood or thermal break windows, higher, shorter or narrower windows, verandahs, alfresco roofs, shade sails, pergola, fixed awnings, trees and shrubs as well as external blinds or neighbouring buildings etc etc..(as well as the colour of the roof and the ratings for your lights taps and heaters etc!!) and this can be different for every window but if you are doing your own design you can also DIY the BASIX application and test various options on the BASIX website before you finalise the plans..(eg a smaller horizontal highlight window on one side and narrower full height window on the other with higher rated light fittings and a ceiling fan may be the best combination and, although each window is treated separately it's the total combination of all energy and insulations and flooring and roofs and light fittings, taps, heaters as well as the windows that satisfy the BASIX ratings.... there's no cost to use the BASIX website (until you finalise your passing rate and apply for the certificate which is a relatively small fee) and i've found it very useful for testing lots of different combinations until you have a "passing" rate and are satisfied with the best choices and for modest homes and renovations you can complete the application work yourself to receive the BASIX certificate to add to your Development Application but, an experienced professional designer preparing your plans should be able to advise you how to meet the BASIX requirements and also complete the application...unfortunately a photo won't help unless the sun angles and the whole design are exactly the same as each BASIX is unique to the individual building