Hi, I had a Spotted Gum Timber Floor ( 10mm Real Solid Timber Single Planks ) in a penthouse apartment for 8 years . It was pre-coated in high gloss clear from the factory . When it was laid it was necessary to have a noise reduction 3mm foam under layer ( apartments underneath building noise requirement) . This method of installation actually made the floor very quiet and it also made it a little softer to walk over . When it got any scuff marks, they just easily wiped off with a damp cloth. When I sold the penthouse, the floor was in exactly the same condition as the day it was first laid - first class. It was only ever cleaned with a steam cleaner , no chemicals whatsoever . I would certainly recommend the pre-coated polyurethane gloss finish on the real timber planks to anyone, it was great ! You can just see a glimpse of the kitchen floor in the attached two images. Good luck with your specifying . High quality surface finishes normally stand the test of time . I have added a couple of extra images of the penthouse for interest. We did the interior design fit out after buying the shell from the developer. It was a stunning sky home . Cheers LAADP

I guess some people associate 'beach' homes with weatherboard cladding, inside wall panelling, and wooden floor boards to give that relaxed vibe. I personally thing stone would also look effective and require less maintenance in comparison to the wood. Remember, sand has a tendency to scratch floorboards, therefore, over time, it may require some TLC to restore to original condition. Stone would simply require a vacuum and mop and would give a seamless look to the home.

Consider a burnished oil finish. I believe this to be superior to layers of polyurethane which often cause boards to stick together and show the scratches. It allows boards to expand and contract. If scratched just use oil over thecsctratch and it will disappear. This would still be done by a professional.

Feast Watson kitchen oil is 30-60 % petroleum naphtha. This maybe the reactionary problem. Ok time to fix. Sanding back starting with 120 grit and go through the grades...180, 240,320. Sand with the grain until you feel that all the blemishes are removed. Sounds daunting but the first strike with the sand paper is psychologically the most difficult. I'd stick to the Tung oil base and use Organoil danish oil. Brush on rub off with a clean rag. Let dry, sand back lightly, this time with 400grit and reapply oil and rub off. Let it cure for a couple of days and you should be good to go. Livos Kunos oil is also an option and would only take a 120 grit sand, apply, rub off. Let that dry for a day sand with 320 and reapply and rub off. The only problem is it is an expensive oil.