I second the idea for a row of cupboards- but make them glossy white (or a bold colour) to differentiate from the rather bland brown matt cupboards at the base. They are your base, make the wall-mounted ones sing. The problem is that the window is too low to really look out of - it's purpose is to illumiante the benches I guess. So accept this and the wall cupboards should work. Leave the pyramid hood, it's a great central feature

GWA/Caroma make a range of toilet suites that have a flexible floor connection called flexilink for people retrofitting new toilet suites to old floor holes so I would suggest that you check out their flush to wall styles. The location of your wall tap may conflict with most flush to wall styles. Some plumbers may even install the suite off-centre to avoid relocating the wall tap! Your plumber would probably be happy to install your toilet hard against the existing skirting tiles and fill the gap around the edge with a bead of silicone, however I wouldn't be happy as it will look clumsy, get dirty and make it harder to remove the cistern lid. If it was my job I would do it properly, remove the plasterboard and tiles for the back wall, relocate the wall tap, add some noggins so that the back of the toilet cistern had something better to fix into than plasterboard, replaster, install toilet then retile skirting. Or retile the whole wall to above the top of the cistern, or even the ceiling, to provide a flush finish tiled finish for any future toilet suite changeovers. If you are spending good money on a flush to wall toilet and a plumber to install it then it is better to do it right without any regrets about gaps or dirty silicone. Best of luck, Dr Retro of Dr Retro House Calls and Dr Retro Virtual Visits

Thanks everyone for your feedback, I appreciate the honesty and agree with some of the points raised. I took a punt on the colours (whisper white & Oolong) and styling (bulkhead and nook feature wall) after talking with a Dulux colour consultant (via Skype). The Kitchen layout definitely needs to re-organised, as well as replacing the tiles and the grey (!) cement grout. The cabinets are poorly designed with a single shelf in each, so have a lot of under utilised storage space. I recently had a consultancy session with IKEA kitchens, just to get an idea of what the possibilities exist in making better use of the existing kitchen layout (without expanding its existing kitchen footprint). As per my original posting, l Would like to be able to tie these projects together and coordinate them as one project rather than have separate projects for kitchen, flooring, decorating and furnishings. The next step is to make contact with an designer and discuss and get someone through my front door. Once again thanks for all your feedback. Cheers

True the standards will be different, but as far as I know, the standards in Australia for waterproofing tubs only state what the outcome needs to be, not necessarily the exact equipment used to achieve it. I think something like this on the market would solve a problem for many people. I've just seen horrendous installations on NEW buildings that included MANY APARTMENTS especially where water clearly runs down between tub and wall and not to standard at all. I can't believe what builders get away with. The way I found out about this stuff is because I've pretty much exhausted my options. Scrolled till my eyes could scroll no more! :) Over many days. I saw a bath on Temple and Webster of all places which stated that it comes with an adhesive tile bead, and I was like, what is that?! I am now actually considering that tub, so I might not need to get a separate thing. But otherwise I was thinking another type of trim or flange attached to the tub could very well do the job just fine. I'm still very confused why island baths are more often offered as a wider bath and flange baths (and especially anti-slip ones clearly concepted to be shower baths) are narrower. I'm guessing they know what sells, but it goes against my design instincts!