Hi Sue, depending on how much design time you need we could do this for between $3 and $4500.00 .

Hi paulaj51, you have so much to work with and it looks like you like organisation . There are so many things to consider before working out the layout such as: Is this all the clothing to be accommodated? What style of fittings do you prefer?- ie luxury, practical, economical, DIY? Is your priority space maximisation or aesthetics? I'm going to make an educated guess and assume this is all that is going into the walk in other than sweaters and shoes. I'm going to assume you are aiming for organisation, space maximisation. The recommendations are easily applicable to off the shelf products you can DIY or high end hand crafted timber, so let's look at the layout... Note# it is possible to get some systems that provide adjustability in the height of the hanging sections, so to space maximise, given there are no dresses or long hanging show, I wouldn't put any long hanging in, but you would need to be sure if you do that, that you can either adjust it later if your needs change, or allow for some now so that you are not restricted. 1 Drop all hanging to the floor- whatever length you need from the floor up. Why- because you will never have to bend again- the lowest you will have to reach is waist height- very beneficial especially as you age and also you don't bump into things as you bend! 2 Decide if you need drawers at all- I believe sweaters are better on shelves than in drawers- you can see all of them if the shelves are designed properly they will stay tidy( see notes below on shelves) . If you want drawers, decide how many and probably where you have the baskets is best opposite the entry so you have maximum space to step back to open. Why? Again- no bending because drawers must be below waist height so unless you really need them for smalls like underwear, you'll save bending, save fossicking for items lost under the top sweater and save money. Also in a walk in no drawers mean no space required to step back. 3 From your photo, you have all the lineal hanging you need so all you do is put all the shelving above the hanging space, unless you need drawers in which case I would add a section of double hanging on the left side where it will be less intrusive than anywhere else because the shelving is shallower than the hanging and so closes the space in less, you can see this in the photo below . 4 Make sure you buy shelving that is adjustable so you can change it as you like. You'll probably hardly ever do it, but you'll get maximum benefit when you're first filling it how you like. You can afford to pack those shelves really tight if they're adjustable -say for shoes, knowing that if at a later date you have less shoes and more bags you can simply spread them apart. See how tightly packed the shoes are below- 5 Now the trick about shelf design. Shelves get messy when they are hard to keep tidy.They're hard to keep tidy when.. They are the wrong width The width of the shelf doesn't fit the items stored because we like to fill the gaps with haf jumpers, and half jumpers become a confusing pile of mess. in general go for width in 30cm(12") increments -60cm (24") is a great width for sweaters. If you want to do a section for shoes- make it the width that fits them which is usually 50cm for 3 pairs or 70 cm for 4 pairs or smaller if you need to but the wider the better rather than cubbies which are really restrictive and useless if you want to use them for other things And the wrong depth Shelves should only be 36 cm deep, that's the front to back measurement. This way , nothing will move around on you in between your closet cleanouts. Don't worry about the perceived loss of space, organisation is more valuable than what equates to a lost pile of treasures at the back of the shelf. The extra benefit of this is- your walk in will feel massively bigger because the deep stuff is low and your elbow room is increased because the shelves are recessed back-very noticeable improvement! Again visible below. The very top shelf can be deeper though. A layout as suggested here will give you an enormous increase in your storage and all of it will be where you can see it, reach it, and you'll never have to get to the floor again. If you'd like more info, you can sign up for my newsletter at http://www.cleverclosetcompany.com.au/ Good Luck, Sally

I agree with jmm1837 and builders and designers are now realising that clients are spending more of their hard earned cash on clothes and require space to look after their dresses, skirts, suits, shoes bags etc. The key rule for built in or walk in robes is to be able to see and reach everything in your wardrobe. Wardrobe design is very different to kitchen design and it is worth investing in a professional wardrobe designers service to get maximum use of space. If you choose a Reach in or Built in wardrobe the doors are the main feature and make a statement in the room therefore style and finish is very important. If you choose hinged doors make sure you have enough room to open them, sliding doors take up less space. A professional wardrobe designer will work with you to custom design the internal fit out of the built in robe, how much half hang, full hang or 3/4 hanging you need, shoe storage and how many drawers you require. Fashions may change but style never dates, if you get the design right and invest in quality your wardrobe will last a lifetime.www.alliancerobes.com.au

I would ask yourself, what are you achieving by a walk in robe?. By your drawing there will be no more storage space than if you have built in robes. The only thing you will have is privacy when walking from ensuite to WIR. BUilt in robes can add interest to a room. If you need privacy then hanging a beautiful curtain in front of wardrobe will give you privacy when required, or can be pulled back if not required.