apologies for the poor quality pic..anyway hopefully u can see. My design features a cantilevered upper floor over the existing living/dining/kitchen using exposed engineered hyspan beams, it's hard to say but the new ceiling could be around 9 feet high, giving enhanced space downstairs. Upstairs there should be enough room for the master bed, study and additional lounge area (approx 8mx5m). Northfacing windows will provide ample sun in winter but shaded by the overhanging skillion roof in summer. A balcony overlooking the garden can be created using the cantilevered beams. Flooring can be particle board floor sheeting (again in keeping with the modest nature of the original worker's cottage). Southfacing windows will give expansive views of the lake and surrounds. Another feature I am proposing is a light well to light the downstairs, and connect the downstairs with the upstairs, so when you walk into the room, you see the fireplace, lookup and see the lightwell, look outside and see the views of the garden and lake. The exposed timber beams and high sheet ceiling will add interest to the downstairs as well. To complement, and soundproof the masterbedroom I am proposing a japanese style screen which can be pulled across for privacy and restrict noise from downstairs. The existing kitchen and bathroom can be demolished, and placed into a new wing, in the form of an old 'colonial' style (for want of a better descriptor) brick or sandstone extension (harking back to previous times). Complete with corrugated roof in the same colour as your existing roof. The extension will include a small walkin pantry, bath, shower, wc, and laundry utilities. All up these are modest extensions which I believe will enhance and encapsulate your existing workers cottage without costing a bomb. The chimney will be kept and will need extending either in brick, or steel flue up over the new roof. Steel might look nice.

if the original asbestos walls are in good condition then they can re-be painted but if the walls are too damaged to be saved the asbestos needs to be removed by professionals and the cladding replaced, no reason you can't have different profiles on the front and sides as long as joints and corners are sealed properly but if you plan to install new windows it could be better to wait to repair sections of wall as the windows are replaced (i'd prefer to have all the roof and external walls in good condition and then do the internal work at leisure)... .modern fibrous cements are excellent ...we've just used flat fibrous cement with curved battens over joints and very happy with the results for our 50's house (there are several different brands available through the big hardware stores and research on line is much easier than trying to work out the variations in store) the gabled portico can be made as a separate structure or as a extension to the roof with valley gutters depending on placement of the solar panels (and/or solar panels can be moved)

Hi everyone, we're renovating our home and adding an extension at the back. As part of the extension our draftsman asked us to consider the colour scheme for the front of the house so it would continue through to the extended part of the house.Colour scheme atm is very yellow (not cream) and red (metal roof) with green trims. Whilst it's cute for what it is, we're trying to achieve more of a modern look to match the modern extension out back.Draftsman suggested more of a off white beige on walls and maybe a aluminium or colorbond grey for the roof.I don't mind the off white/beige but afraid this might not be modern enough? We don't need the house to pop, just trying to achieve a more modern and timeless result. Whatever colour we choose for the roof, assuming it's in good nick, is it possible to paint over instead of changing the whole roof sheets? Assuming painting is cheaper...

Even if it was a weatherboard house, there could be asbestos sheeting in the eaves or the interior walls or the fusebox or all sorts of places, and there could be asbestos in other materials like the putty in the windows. That's good advice from Dreamer. Here's another link. https://www.asbestossafety.gov.au/find-out-about-asbestos/asbestos-home Weatherboard is timber boards and I don't see the stripey look of weatherboards in your pictures. I think the agent has a very vague understanding that there's brick houses and non-brick houses, and assumed anything non-brick is weatherboard. It never ceases to disappoint me how uneducated agents are about the very product they are selling. This is weatherboard, you can see the boards.