Way late to the party here, but another reason NOT fill dents/holes/gouges in your floorboads with putty, is to avoid my current nightmare. My 100+ year old baltic pine floorboards badly need re-sanding as there are lots of large grey patches where the finish has worn completely away which looks terrible and it‘s really hard to keep even half clean. Being a tad short of cash atm Im looking at doing it myself, so the other day I got down on my hands and knees and had a really good look at the patches that were worn, and it turns out that underneath 90% of them isn’t wood at all - its $#*&ing putty, and theres so much of it, in high traffic areas some boards are almost more putty than wood! its basically dirt magnet that’s really ugly yet really hard to remove, making the job of refinishing sooo much harder than it needs to be. If you plan on staying in your home for a while, chances are one day you’ll need to redo the floors, so to the question of putty? Just say no!

Maybe I'm weird , maybe I'm lazy -- I liked that 'busy' look . Even more so after reading what you had to do to change it . And just me , but I find some irony in most people saying the tin didn't suit the period , but then you've turned the fireplace into a book case ! I assume the old air-con was biffed ( i.e. no value ) , and while I do like the new unit , just for my own interest I would have taken the old cover off and painted it a bright gloss red , and done the tin the same . If you don't like red , then go your favourite colour -- yellow or a nice green or blue . If your favourite colour is grey or off-white then I can't help you haha ! If that still looked naff , and you did all the work that you have , personally I would have added some character back in -- I would have 'recreated' the tin area in tiles . IMO even gloss white 150 x 150 would have looked pleasant and added interest without looking too busy , BUT again just me , I would have gone more for a period reddy burgundy , or an emerald green or mottled-toned blue -- I liked the tones in the tiles back in that era ! Obviously , you are happy with what you've done , and you're definitely not going to change it , but just outlining the lines I would have considered .

Thanks for the suggestions. I knew the brains trust would offer good options. Blue board looks interesting. I need whatever I use to be at least 15mm thick so that there aren't any toehold edges between the lattice and the surround frame. Yes we thought of painting the fence and perhaps contrast bamboo in front. Mini orb I don't think would work because the corrugations leave gaps between it and the lattice.

Two options for your floor For a Quality Bathroom Renovation 1) Best Option Remove existing yellow tongue, the sheets may extend be under the walls to the adjoining room, can be done...NOT an easy job, hand saw and chisel 2( Hardies Ceramic Tile underlay nailed onto the existing yellow tongue, MUST be nailed to manufacturers specifications. Nails, as specified and spacing as specified. 3) Walls ...Plumb Studs, add noggins for vanity, recessed shaving cabinet et all check top and bottom plates 4) Rough In Plumbing 5) 6) Rough In electrical 7) Insulate walls with Sound Check Insulation,,, Add flashing angles in corners... 8) Fix Hardiflex to specifications 300mm centers, galvanized clouts if using wall tiles up to 15 mm use 6.5 thick villaboard, if over, use 9 mm villoaboard 9) Sikaflex with 11FC all gaps villaboard to floor, 10) Waterproof , apply ( Davco K10 plus, easy one to apply. not toxic nor inflamable whole floor, showed say 300 above shower screen 1 metre to sides of the shower, 600 above bath, vanity, 400 around remaining bathroom walls 11) Shower wall to floor, and about 300 past shower, add Polyester Bandage abt 100 mm wide 12) Fix water bars to, shower and door ( MUST be level ) with Sikaflex 11 FC 13) Second coat of waterproofing to all areas 14 ) Tiler to "top floor"/ lay tile bed, 15) After drying 4/5 days, WATERPROOF on top of tile bed, with another Polyester Bandage in shower area....the waterproof on top of the tile bed is to keep the tile bed dry .. two coats in shower 16) Commence tiling