Gal will go grey (mid to dark grey) over 12 - 18 months. Initially VERY bright. The energy absorbed changes accordingly, from sub 5% absorbed to ~35%. Zinc maintains brightness for longer, though still suffers some dulling. Say 5% to 15% over time. This can be avoided by coating with a product called 'Sharkhide' metal protectant, used to stop aluminium boats oxidising. For there reasons many councils will not allow zinc or gal roofing (visual amenity, reflection issues), while making the houses more prone to requiring summer aircon at the same time. Surfmist Colorbond starts around 9% absorbed. If purely for energy reasons, a light colour might be the only option. If going dark, I would suggest at least doing the 'less aesthetically important' sides and rear in a light colour. Your call. If you go all dark, ensure you have good roof space ventilation for the summer that can be closed in the winter, and lots of well installed ceiling level insulation. Spray foam is more reliable over time than batts, see Spray It Solutions or similar (they have the Formaldahyde free Canadian Icenene foam).

Hi, I would paint it with chalk paint, no sanding ( I use Annie Sloan - not available at Bunnings ) have a look at purple lady painting tip page, the best I have read. I use the soft clear wax to seal. I really like the depth of the paint. You could leave the bench wood or replace, I wouldn't use chalk paint on bench top, or any other paint. Chalk paint is expensive but saves priming and sanding so maybe more comparable when you do that sum. Changing the knobs will give a revamp as well. If you do choose an Annie Sloan paint and want white use the antique white, it has much better coverage than the pure white. I buy the paint on line as my nearest stockist is 160 kms from where I live. I use correct brushes as well, very expensive but I do take very good care of them, I was them out in softly and gently scrub down the bristles with a soft scrubbing brush

Hi Margaret, Hope you found a great solution for your spa area! I saw someone mention using natural foliage as a screen and thought I’d chime in to propose using a mix of real and artificial plants. After all, living plants may be seasonal (and fail to offer much privacy when they’re not in full bloom). You can check out our range here - www.evergreenwalls.com.au Richard

Alright brains trust! For anyone who wants to tackle this weekend's options. House one is a total crazy town - 250m2 of living space, with the top floor rented out separately (with a separate entry). We'd want to bring the two levels together into one house. House two is a little place, on a good size corner block. Our dream requirements across both houses are: 4 bedrooms, including main with genuine WIR and ensuite At least 2 bathrooms with a separate toilet (or 2.5 inc a powder room) Two living spaces Open plan kitchen/dining, with a big island and a walk in pantry A mud room connected to the garage Maximise indoor/outdoor flow, with light - it's Canberra, so we have both -8 and 40 with depressing regularity. Both of the properties are brick veneer, timber bearer and joist floor and conventional truss roof. House one has a SW facing facade, 780m2. House two has a S facing facade, 990m2. Both are flat blocks, and easements are at the edges of the property so no real encroachment issues. Unfortunately I don't have legible floor plans, other than the agent's mock ups, for either. Happy to answer questions where I can! House One House Two