I also have a window like that in our shower - it may, but doesn't normally get wet from the shower. I have put in a thin venetian blind in white (made from plastic) very cheap, under $5. I am in process of making an puffy austrian blind to hang above the window, for a bit of colour I am making it from a shower curtain). It will be there for looks, I may never pull it down. The venetian gives privacy and blocks the light a certain amount.

@Souzette Lovell, I know nothing about bidets but just commenting on your question about water being splashed on untiled areas of your bathroom. I constructed my bathroom entirely with villa board, and the only plaster is on the ceiling. I have also tiled the entire bathroom to the ceiling because it made sense to do this rather than be concerned about any water ingress anywhere as well as any damage from something like the hand held shattaff you mention and it means zero maintenence having to repaint from time to time. My suggestion is if it's not too late to use villaboard and not plaster, in fact I'm surprised all bathrooms aren't fitted out with villaboard but I don't think it's compulsory except for the shower cubicle. I did it so there would never be an issue with water damage as this material is impervious to water ingress. Otherwise if it's too late and your bathroom is complete, I would tile this wall or a section of the wall as it would make more sense to be able to wipe the tiles regularly in case of any unwanted splashes from regular use if there are children especially, as their aim isn't always perfect and it's hard to clean plaster ha-ha!!

Wow, well, I didn't see that one, and since I tried bristle brushes anyway without success it may not have worked. What I did find, thanks to your suggestion, was this thing, which has fine grit embedded in the nylon bristles. So harder than a brush, softer than wire. The problem with my ceilings (all five of them) is that for the past 122 years, the thin pressed tin was the ONLY surface between the room and the corrugated iron roof. An oven in summer, an icebox in winter, and huge temperature fluctuations between night and day - so although the paint is only one or two coats thick, it has crazed as well as peeled or bubbled. Totally impractical financially speaking as well as impossible time-wise, to strip it back, so it's just remedial work for me. Getting rid of any hanging flakes, and filling in the tiny cracks. Togged up with eye protection, face mask, ear muffs when using the grinder, and a shower cap, I used a combination of the fan grinder below, a hand held small wire brush, the wooden handle of my paint brush, and the plastic end of a broom (when standing on the floor) to scrape flakes and crunch 'blisters'. After discussing the problem with a local specialist paint manufacturer I came away with a fantastic primer which primes ANY surface, even aluminium, bonds the paint, fills tiny cracks, and covers amazingly well. I used a soft brush. Much to my surprise it only took half a pot to do a ceiling of just under 13 sq metres. I found it was less exhausting to do first the scraping, then painting, whatever was in reach before moving the ladder. This saved a lot of double handling.. I hung my paint pot on the ladder, so just threw a cloth over it while doing the scraping. One more tip is that you can do touchups from the floor very nicely with a foam roller mini brush on a pole. The foam roller squidges into the hills and valleys of the tin patterns. I have now finished preparing this first room and only have the top coat to finish off. I don't think I'll need more than one coat, as the prep coat is so good already. I'm going to use a good quality flat white ceiling paint (they usually have a bit of black in them for better coverage). I don't pretend it will look as glorious as the original, but I'm not doing a full-on restoration, just a renovation/refreshing of a very humble cottage. I think it will still look attractive, flaws and all, and show the history of the house. Photo also below of work in progress, and the 'after' of the prep coat. If I remember, I'll post an after picture once I've finished the final coat. :)

Ok. So here s the deal. I got myself a beautiful floor lamp only to realize that the lamp's legs are oak in color and the tv unit in the same setting is whitewashed acacia. I also have a light planter next to the lamp that's light wood tone too. Now here are my concerns :- 1) Is it advisable to have two different wood tones (yellow and white) in the same setting ? My sofa legs , though hidden are a dark mahogany color and the tv unit is an industrial one with dark grey metal legs. So sofa, unit and lamp all have different legs. 2) I have quite some space left next to the sofa after the lamp. The current round metal side table is not fitting and I d be replacing it. Am leaning towards a light wooden side table like one in the pics. Now if I get that, should its legs match the lamp( will be next to it ) or the the unit ? Also, should the side table match the hallway table ? I am using the sofa Ottoman as a coffee table and still looking for a hallway. 3) What else can I put in that space ? A plant ? Decorative vases ? Baskets ? 4) Does my sofa look silver in the led cool white light ? Should I change the light to warm or add some warm cushions ? Thanks in advance. This is exciting and crazy at the same time.