Hi Lambkin, there are many conflicting elements when it comes to making these decisions so you really have to rank your priorities. Obviously you need more storage, so storage is one priority, but when it comes to really tight storage situations like this with a potential major downfall such as greatly devaluing the re-sale by losing a bedroom it's worth getting very detailed about what you actually need sorted and how cleverly you can accommodate those needs with minimum impact. I aproach these situaltions like this; Assess requirement for deep storage- ie clothes that hang need 600mm depth unless you want to compromise further by turning the rods the opposite way. Assess requirement for shallow storage- folded gear, shoes, other stuff on shelves. These only neeed 360mm depth, externally 400mm. Breaking it down like this enables you to approach tight spaces much more effectively. Depending on the lineal hanging space you actually require, you might be able to fit a couple deep of built in robes in the existing room- possible either side of the bed. These will be purely hanging space. Then you might do a shallower cabinet or long, low drawer unit for the shoes and folded gear. If you are really tight, shoes can be stored vertically in drawers. Consider other storage opportunities throughout the home where you can store overflow items and do a seasonal swap if need be. If after fully considering the downside of converting room 3, then I would intend to do it in a way that you can still present it as a bedroom if need be, so preferrably don't change the walls. There is a good opportunity for deep overflow wardrobe hanging in the niche by the window in room 3, it looks about 800mm. If that was double hanging , you gain 1.6 lineal meteres there and have hardly lost any space in the room. Then doing a long low freestanding drawer unit or credenza for folded gear or shoes will not dominate the space with the height. Good Luck

Hi Katie, can you move your office somewhere else while your guests are staying? Maybe put the bedhead under the window and push it hard against the left hand wall, that will give you about 67cm between the bed and the door, room to sneak in a small bedside table (if queen bed is 153cm wide and room is 220). Not ideal as the person closest to the wall would have to shuffle down off the end of the bed but it's a very tight space for a queen size bed. You could maybe then put a small chair or two and table against the wall between the end of the bed and the wardrobe for a sitting area for your guests. if your desk needs to stay would it fit along the wall where the bed head is currently? Assuming you don't want to swap the bed out to a double.

Hi paulaj51, you have so much to work with and it looks like you like organisation . There are so many things to consider before working out the layout such as: Is this all the clothing to be accommodated? What style of fittings do you prefer?- ie luxury, practical, economical, DIY? Is your priority space maximisation or aesthetics? I'm going to make an educated guess and assume this is all that is going into the walk in other than sweaters and shoes. I'm going to assume you are aiming for organisation, space maximisation. The recommendations are easily applicable to off the shelf products you can DIY or high end hand crafted timber, so let's look at the layout... Note# it is possible to get some systems that provide adjustability in the height of the hanging sections, so to space maximise, given there are no dresses or long hanging show, I wouldn't put any long hanging in, but you would need to be sure if you do that, that you can either adjust it later if your needs change, or allow for some now so that you are not restricted. 1 Drop all hanging to the floor- whatever length you need from the floor up. Why- because you will never have to bend again- the lowest you will have to reach is waist height- very beneficial especially as you age and also you don't bump into things as you bend! 2 Decide if you need drawers at all- I believe sweaters are better on shelves than in drawers- you can see all of them if the shelves are designed properly they will stay tidy( see notes below on shelves) . If you want drawers, decide how many and probably where you have the baskets is best opposite the entry so you have maximum space to step back to open. Why? Again- no bending because drawers must be below waist height so unless you really need them for smalls like underwear, you'll save bending, save fossicking for items lost under the top sweater and save money. Also in a walk in no drawers mean no space required to step back. 3 From your photo, you have all the lineal hanging you need so all you do is put all the shelving above the hanging space, unless you need drawers in which case I would add a section of double hanging on the left side where it will be less intrusive than anywhere else because the shelving is shallower than the hanging and so closes the space in less, you can see this in the photo below . 4 Make sure you buy shelving that is adjustable so you can change it as you like. You'll probably hardly ever do it, but you'll get maximum benefit when you're first filling it how you like. You can afford to pack those shelves really tight if they're adjustable -say for shoes, knowing that if at a later date you have less shoes and more bags you can simply spread them apart. See how tightly packed the shoes are below- 5 Now the trick about shelf design. Shelves get messy when they are hard to keep tidy.They're hard to keep tidy when.. They are the wrong width The width of the shelf doesn't fit the items stored because we like to fill the gaps with haf jumpers, and half jumpers become a confusing pile of mess. in general go for width in 30cm(12") increments -60cm (24") is a great width for sweaters. If you want to do a section for shoes- make it the width that fits them which is usually 50cm for 3 pairs or 70 cm for 4 pairs or smaller if you need to but the wider the better rather than cubbies which are really restrictive and useless if you want to use them for other things And the wrong depth Shelves should only be 36 cm deep, that's the front to back measurement. This way , nothing will move around on you in between your closet cleanouts. Don't worry about the perceived loss of space, organisation is more valuable than what equates to a lost pile of treasures at the back of the shelf. The extra benefit of this is- your walk in will feel massively bigger because the deep stuff is low and your elbow room is increased because the shelves are recessed back-very noticeable improvement! Again visible below. The very top shelf can be deeper though. A layout as suggested here will give you an enormous increase in your storage and all of it will be where you can see it, reach it, and you'll never have to get to the floor again. If you'd like more info, you can sign up for my newsletter at http://www.cleverclosetcompany.com.au/ Good Luck, Sally

Are you planning on putting a rug under the bed? We have dark brown furniture and a rug and I’m very happy with it. The thing I would question is how would brown furniture look with the white bed? The rug breaks up the heaviness of everything being dark. I don’t think it would make the room look cramped.