Are you after a quick makeover to sell or do you intend to live in the finished renovation. ? I will work on details of a renovation to last say 15 years. First step advise the body corporate in writing the water proofing has failed and a renovation is necessary Floor drainage can.t be moved on top floor, however vanity drainage 40 mm pipe can be chased into a wall and with a tile bed 25 mm thick, chased 10mm into floor. to change pos'n of vanity Water is easy to relocate, Plumber on Never paint a bath, the guarantee is only 5 years, Never use white floor grout. Part of a mixer tap is under your tiles, problem expensive to replace. Only purchase tapware with 15 yr warranty, Grohe, Methvan, Sussex, expect to pay from $ 300 each mixer. Bath Only steel Kaldewei Eurowa $ 400 , 15 yr warranty. Designers secret, to make your bathroom appear larger, place all the available space together. Vanity All drawer wall hung ( floating ) is really the only vanity Harvey Norman recently had an imported 900 wall hung at about $ 900. Tile to ceiling Replace your ceiling and add cornice after tiling, top floor unit will require fire rated ceiling and fire rated LED Length of time by pro 3 weeks, any shorter waterproofing is below standards. when obtaining quotes you want the whole bathroom floor coated, 1 coat under tile bed, 2 coats on top, 2 coats on relevant walls. $ Quality Reno All up 20 K, Porcelain floor tiles, Ceramic wall tiles you can save about $ 1000 if you strip out. KEN

Loose lay vinyl will never be waterproof in a wet area. Great for growing mould though! The only vinyl I would consider in a wet area would be the fixed, hospital grade vinyl, with the coved skirting. Not cheap, you still have to waterproof as well, and it won't fit in with your existing floor wastes .http://www.polyflor.com.au/product/polysafe-vogue-ultra-pur/ Bathroom renovations are expensive, so don't try and cut corners and do them on the cheap as the work will need to be redone, and it could actually be a health hazard. Best of luck, Dr Retro of Dr Retro House Calls

Thanks Paul. I agree it would be better to stop water coming in rather than dealing with it once it's inside, but that has its challenges too. These include loss of mature garden including a hedge of mature (50 yo) roof-height camellias and excavation below the current foundations (lot of digging, tight working space, cost....). Have drawn a sketch to (hopefully) explain my issue better. Once I solve the water problem, I would like to build a (block?) wall to the right of stump C. I have (mostly?) solved the problem of overland water flow by installing drains outside the house. But with heavy rain (when we get rain it is often heavy), water seeps out from the soil profile (wavy lines on sketch) and flows over the kerb (which is about 200mm high). I could instal another drain behind the kerb/Stump C (very tight working space, potential impact on stumps and have to be done by hand). The other (or supplementary) option I have been thinking about is installing a drain like the one pictured above inside the garage (ie to the right of Stump C and proposed wall). Any advice appreciated (especially as we live in a small remote town and often specialists are reluctant to travel to us), but I'm particularly interested in the internal drain option as I hadn't heard/thought of that option before doing some web-based research....

Some baths are more suited for shower baths than others. It depends on the flattish standing room at the bottom of the bath. Some baths are quite curvy and narrow. Make sure you stand in a showroom bath to see if it feels too narrow (without your shoes). You will need a four flange bath for tiling and waterproofing in your shower bath scenario. https://specify.caroma.com.au/products/baths/vivas/vivas-1675-anti-slip-bath Best of luck with your planning, Dr Retro of Dr Retro House Calls/Dr Retro Virtual Visits