The colored bedroom provides timeless artistic designs that are both gorgeous and functional while the white designed to provide comfort with the perfect sleeping experience. Source: http://www.bedworks.com.au/372-luxury-bed-frames

I would recommend a higher bed whether ensemble or any style of base with top mattress or pillow top. I have had serious spinal injuries since 25 (I'm now 40) I would advise any bed reaching around 70cm in height regardless off style. There are a few things that I would advise, overall height around 70cm or a little more, most important to consider is comfort. Do not worry about aesthetics when choosing bed as your sleep is more important to your overall health. So if you can afford the more comfortable bed go for it. As for putting on sheets etc, the weight off mattresses is not really a big deal as it is your sleep comfort that is important. With pillow top mattress with a fitted sheet needing a 45cm fitted sheet are easy to find and purchase from same place bed is purchased. In Australia all bed sheet supplies are available for pillow top with 45cm drop fitted. Percale last longer and are around $100 per set and 1000 thread count. Spotlight have great sales and choices as well as Pillow Talk. I have found Adair's to be quite expensive in comparison but that is up to you to decide. I hope you have many a restful nights sleep. But do not worry about weight of mattress as you need your sleep to live healthy and it is an investment for around ten years so how it looks and weight of mattress should be last on list. Designers may disagree, but our bedrooms are normally our sanctuaries and it is rather easy to make any bed style work for you and decorate to your style.

I've just come from a showing where an old timber house was lifted with downstairs built in modern with all polished concrete. They also had a concrete kitchen bench but kept upstairs traditional with VJ board walls and ceiling and carpeted floors. In my opinion is did not work, was a confusing mix of industrial with traditional. It almost felt cheap as if the builder couldn't be bothered to spend more on timber floors or even tile - even though the polished concrete could very well have cost more. I think dark timber is definitely your best option as it will blend better with the cornices and skirtings. Hope that helps.

HI All - for some reason my lengthy reply a few minutes ago was deleted :-(. I put so much thought into it! So here it goes again. Basically a big thank you to you Houzzers. MB your subfloor ventilation sounds great and Im glad it's fixing the problem so simply. The reason why Im trying for a whirligig solution is that I favour a passive system, however if it doesn't work I'll look into what you suggest Siriuskey - yes to some kind of kit. I've already contacted a guy on Gumtree selling grannykit frames - he says for something to my specifications would be about $4000 for the steel frame alone. Would need to check engineering details - and the liveable sheds you've linked me to seem to have that all checked. Although getting a local Chippie to frame it all up on site - as Twos Co suggests - is probably the most economical option Two's Co - thanks for the feedback and the excellent checklist of processes. I've covered most of the concerns though - I've got the DA based on my own flimsy plans. Because it's relatively small, I was going to work with the builder directly and over-engineer it. I've since engaged an architect to do some handsketches and draft specs, which will be signed off by a structural engineer. It's basically a portal frame independent structure, with a 3 degree pitch skillion roof. The house was rewired and the wires you can see are non-live looms waiting for the extension! The sewer is not connected and that part was never plumbed in. There's good rear lane access, but for the purposes of getting concrete in, I'll most likely get a concrete pump from the front of the house - for $180 per hour they will save time and make the concreting much easier. The existing trench I got dug in because I had an excavator on site installing those lovely large concrete blocks you can see, for the retaining wall (500kg each). But that was 7 weeks ago, and the excavation has got too large, and I worked out for a very similar cost I can make the extension 1m wider, so why not. The existing trench I can fill in with the demolition rubble, compact, and filled with any fill waste. Two's Company, I'm on the fence about removing the existing Bedroom 3. If I thought it wouldn't add to the costs too much, I'd do it. One advantage is that I could then make the whole 9m long extension (Option 2) around 150 - 300mm higher, (ie a step up from the existing house) and thus avoid too much excavation and a potential pond. To answer your question about damp and moisture, the whole house is facing a hill with 7 degree slope, and fixing this has been the main aim of the retaining wall, however the runoff is only likely to increase in coming years. anyway here are a few photos. The site is still so messy because the demolition only happened 2 days ago - Im still tidying up....