I can only give you my experience. I've lived for over 20yrs on real hardwood floors. And every time I stand on any kind of laminated plank it looks and feels like cheap plastic. There is just no comparison to actual wood flooring. Timber absorbs vibration, feels pleasant underfoot either barefoot or shoed. It looks real, because it is. Timber planks are 20mm thick, laminate ones are 5mm. Laminate flooring looks like a printed piece of plastic because, well it's very similar except for the top 2mm of veneer stuck to it. It may fool us in brochures and magazines but I've never once been fooled by laminate in person. They can give it all the fancy names they want like 'engineered' but at the end of the day it's all the same stuff. Laminated veneers on cheap plywood. But not one person on the planet has ever fooled that it's a real floorboard. Does timber scratch? Absolutely. So don't put a piano finish on it then. Stick with satin and matte finishes. It shows up the marks a lot less. Does timber dent? Absolutely. But those dents become part of the character of the home over time. I recently lived in a home with floorboards over 100yrs old. They had dents everywhere and yet those boards just looked lived on, they didn't look terrible. Does timber suffer water damage? Yes of course. But before you worry about it, go and check out the thousands of 100yrs old hardwood homes sitting on flood plains in this country. Every single one of them has been underwater more than once in it's lifetime. The original boards are there, strong and unfazed. Unless you plan to flood your home for weeks on end the occassional spill and overflow won't damage the timber at all. I'm a quality over quantity type of person so of course I'm going to rate going with the lifetime option over the rip it out every 5yrs option. If I had the money for hardwood I would not even consider plastic planks.

I have only seen one wooden bench top that has managed, over time, to keep the wet out and avoid that black mouldy creepage where the water splashes behind the taps and around tap inserts. It was built by a carpenter and then the owner applied oil to gain the colour desired before applying several coats of marine epoxy (several = at least 5), sanded back before every new layer. It was burn proof and the colour locked in by epoxy coat with no maintenance required (until a visitor put a burning pot on it and left it there while attending to fire on stove, still... only left a black ring. That said, the owner promptly got out the sander and ground back until black ring was no longer charcoal texture, then reapplied oil and layered epoxy until black ring looked like it belonged (can't do that with any other surface I can think of?). After 15 years there is no sight of the insidious black mould from water penetration so I suppose it is the same recipe as with most thing successful projects in life, research, research, preparation, preparation, preparation and don't falter at the finish line.

Hi guys, wow thank you for being such champs with all the great advice! Even my partner, the handyman of the household, is chuffed we found this site with such great community. The room does feel overwhelming as we took over the property (rental so not keen to go full out with ripping things out to replace them) with appliances included. For 3 years we've just been prioritising our career and family (both of ours are overseas) and with The Great Pause of 2020 happening, there is a lot of space to tackle what has been too overwhelming for us. UPDATES! We will slowly shift into kitchen reno gear gradually, but looking forward to share gradual changes to the space. [budget] To be honest, it's a rental property where we don't plan to live in 2 years down. I'd say $500 or below, but knowing most of the $$ is going into organising and new shelving (thinking of new shelves to put 1L airtight jars for all our grains/ pasta/ baking/ nuts - as they are currently all stashed away in the cabinet). So no installers, just me and the old school way of self taught youtube videos and essential (for my sanity) trips to Bunnings! [clutter] Great honest feedback, we do have too much crap lying around. I've cleared out two basket worth of stuff and once I reorganise the cabinets, most of the stuff on the bench will disappear. This will now be a monthly habit + the idea that if something doesn't have its place in the kitchen, it wont even enter the space. [light] The horrendous shade is gone, thanks for helping me convince the man. It feels so good to have the 1/4 top section of the room brightened. Feels like there is more room to utilise. It's quite tall as our already considered tall step ladder can only let us reach the top of the upper cabinets. What should we do with all the extra space near the ceiling/ We are thinking to install some floating shelves and just put plants, which wouldn't require us to check in every 4-5 days so occasionally climbing the heights is fine. I can anticipate accidental drops already, but no kids at home so can deal with cleaning up shards. @Kate fantastic call on the light in the dining area, hoping to extend space as best I can. Tbh, would love to take off the wall, but don't want to damage the wiring and also can't be bothered as above point on rental. [painting] Yes! Colour was definitely one of the biggest road block I've had. White is definitely going up first, it works as a great base and if we want to change up the tone we can just paint over it. Glad to hear advice on working with the existing colours, i love a good vintage, but whenever there is more than 4 colour in a room (green from plants don't count), it gets a bit too much for me. (Happy to hear blush and charcoal are approved). Perhaps let's revisit the colour brainstorm once I've done a white paint on. It will help you guys visualise what better as I gradually clean up the space. I won't be retiling. Probably won't even be doing a tile paint. I've heard horror stories on tile paint and how they decided to just retile afterwards. Partner is keen though, open to ideas after the white paint is on. @siriuskey i love the idea of soft green, it looks wonderful in a friend's kitchen where there wasn't much light. She actually paired white ceiling light with a soft 24/7 tabletop warm light, it somehow worked quite well. If anyone has any advice on colour pairing, I'm all ears. Atm I'm relying on https://coolors.co/ Great color visualisation tips btw @Kate totally would have missed the testing on back of door bit, great reminder. @User partner laid down a verdict that the timber bench top and the black bench top is staying unfortunately, but I will lobby again once the white paint is on. I think I will weigh in on what I would like to tackle between the bench tops or the fridge/ stove as these are quite dominant (as pointed out by @brizcs). Will call on advice for tile painting if we get to that stage. If I am to start with the floor tiles there are bits to fix too, 1-2 tiles have somehow loosened up and one's even broken.. trying to tackle small bits with big changes first like @Kate suggested! @siriuskey the 70s cabinet timber definitely has its own style, I may try to paint that massive board above it white first, then decide if I'd still like to go ahead with the cabinet timber painting. Will look into transforming the fridge and stove, but also aligning w budget. @brizcs actually think i'll have a look into this rather than the paneling, thanks for the tips on where i can start my research on. Definitely not a fan of the colours of the fridge and stove. Unsure about a new stovetop bc our current one is broken (oven don't work but stove does), however landlord is being a prick and would rather get her friend (uncertified) in to try fixing it. They popped over to try to figure it out themselves but we put a plug to it as we don't want them both to explode in our kitchen. So the stovetop is unfortunately stuck, heck I probably have to check to see if I can even do any work on it as there may be some restrictions to prevent bad gas fire x the paint/finish combo. [under bench lights] This is where I'll need some advice. I've never installed this before and am stuck with power source options. Without getting tradies in to rewire into the walls, my only options seems like batteries. We do have a power socket of four (on the other end of the bench, prefer to not drag wires all over the place), however 2 are taken permanently and the remaining two I would like to keep free. Don't mind changing out chargeable batteries now and then. I'm envisioning it being a simple task of stick LED light strip + stick battery box (maybe paint it to 'hide' it), please advise if I'm being too naive here. NEW IDEAS [Theme: open access design] This means shelves with all our jars out. Mainly to see all the food we already have so we use them up before we hoard too much. Same goes for things like knives (magnet strips), spatula (hung up to rail with grids), pots/ pans, wine etc. I very much like a functional retro vibe for my kitchen I don't need things to be glossy and full marble. I like the industrial practical way of seeing where things are and knowing what tools i have immediately. Thoughts? Will send through photos of the side I didn't show, it's where the sink is. And the sink will be a whole new category itself which I'm not touching till a later stage. [floating shelves on tiles] I have forgotten to mention that I'm hoping to install this below my cabinets on the left for spices. For the right cabinet I will either install mug hooks or move the mugs entirely to previously mentioned shelving option. Will definitely add LED lights under the cabinets and under the spice shelf. Again, thank you for letting me tickle your brain on this, the project has just got a lot less stressful thanks to you guys :)

Talking about a complex roof design, yes that will increase costs. It will also be a nightmare for solar PV panels (which should be an important consideration for all homes nowadays). Not only will the complex roof increase the complexity & cost of solar installation. The results will look pretty terrible too - if that's an issue - as rectangular panels don't fit well on triangles & trapezoids. One reason for the complex roof - other than Australia's love of hip & valley roofs - is the complex floorplan. A complex shapes footprint will lead to a complex roof. Talking about trying to keep costs down, as you've started, a complex footprint not only results in a complex, costly roof. Complex footprints will increase building costs in other ways. They'll result in a larger external surface area. As external walls are more costly than internal walls, larger external surface areas increase cost. Each corner will increase cost. There's a lot of corners in this building. There's unusual angles, which will also greatly increase costs. On a sloping block a large footprint will lead to much more cutting & filling, much more retaining. I'm not expert, but I'd weight up the costs of a large single storey home on a sloping block, verses a much simpler shaped rectangular home, with a much smaller footprint, double storey at the rear. It may turn out that in this case a split level home - with increased comfort & far more northern light to living areas, & views to the south in many rooms - may be worth an additional investment. In any case, is be looking at reducing the size of the build, of costs are an issue. It will be much better for the environment in any case. Looking to utilise multi-purpose rooms, such as a home theatre that doubles as a guest room. Limiting hallway space, dead space in some people's books, removing the scullery (I personally hate these things). I think good design is far more important than having a home that is larger than needed.