we're building in Childers Qld (Zone 2) on top of a hill 120m above sea level with no chance of being built-in as we are on a 69 acre block. Quite windy all the time predominately from the SE. All outside doors will be security. Roof has vents in the gables on all four sides so I can leave open to purge heat during summer and close off in winter. Bed 2&3 doors used to be adjacent bathroom door for cross breezes but a layout change in the bathroom meant having its door on the east now. Not ideal but necessary. Dark colour unfortunately is dictated by our very red soil that will stain any light colour so had to go dark, would of preferred light. So I should make my eaves 1200mm all around?

I have to agree with the comment on symmetrical. I really thought that was something I should be pedantic about but then I had to take into consideration what storage I needed and as my kitchen is only small, there was no way I could even begin to think symmetrical. I chose to have finger pulls on my drawers which unlike handles does not draw attention to the unevenness, but even then I actually prefer the fact that each of my drawers are different, to me it is more interesting, and better still, helps OLD minds like mine remember where I put things.

annb1997 Saturday Emily, what will you use the benchtop for and is there to be a cabinet on the wall above? Will this be a breakfast/beverage station? I think your drawer sizes will work fine as the drawers are wide. I have same set up but with same sizes as dreamer. My top drawer is only just high enough to house all the short glasses. Stacked plates and bowls don’t take up so much height, unless you are feeding an army The benchtop will house the kettle and hopefully nothing else. I checked my mums house again and she actually stores her plates on her top shallow one so I guess I was stressing for nothing. Haha. Thanks all!

Two options for your floor For a Quality Bathroom Renovation 1) Best Option Remove existing yellow tongue, the sheets may extend be under the walls to the adjoining room, can be done...NOT an easy job, hand saw and chisel 2( Hardies Ceramic Tile underlay nailed onto the existing yellow tongue, MUST be nailed to manufacturers specifications. Nails, as specified and spacing as specified. 3) Walls ...Plumb Studs, add noggins for vanity, recessed shaving cabinet et all check top and bottom plates 4) Rough In Plumbing 5) 6) Rough In electrical 7) Insulate walls with Sound Check Insulation,,, Add flashing angles in corners... 8) Fix Hardiflex to specifications 300mm centers, galvanized clouts if using wall tiles up to 15 mm use 6.5 thick villaboard, if over, use 9 mm villoaboard 9) Sikaflex with 11FC all gaps villaboard to floor, 10) Waterproof , apply ( Davco K10 plus, easy one to apply. not toxic nor inflamable whole floor, showed say 300 above shower screen 1 metre to sides of the shower, 600 above bath, vanity, 400 around remaining bathroom walls 11) Shower wall to floor, and about 300 past shower, add Polyester Bandage abt 100 mm wide 12) Fix water bars to, shower and door ( MUST be level ) with Sikaflex 11 FC 13) Second coat of waterproofing to all areas 14 ) Tiler to "top floor"/ lay tile bed, 15) After drying 4/5 days, WATERPROOF on top of tile bed, with another Polyester Bandage in shower area....the waterproof on top of the tile bed is to keep the tile bed dry .. two coats in shower 16) Commence tiling