Hi Complete Kitchens....Yes, I realise that 20k could get a good standard kitchen (our own one recently done was about 26k including scullery), I'm more talking about the ones that talk about doing kitchen, bathroom, painting and even moving some walls on 20k. What my point was, is its great when people like you actually give an idea of a cost of a project - it's easy to get fired up with inspiration and then get thoroughly dissapointed when reality hits! Things are expensive these days and I think for some who may not have done any renovations to their house for years, they don't really have a lot of idea of the costs involved.

Thanks everyone - your comments and diagrams have given me plenty of ideas I hadn't considered. Perhaps shifting the wall is a little drastic! I'm now thinking of going a long U shape like this. I'll add a few upper cabinets on the left side too for the most frequently used stuff from the pantry (as the pantry is still a distance from the stove/oven). The fridge as you can see is now right amongst the action. We also have a chest freezer hiding out in the laundry which I can move into the old fridge space...alternatively I might convert it to a computer workstation as suggested. I'm leaning towards a peninsula rather than an island, just because I feel like it will give me a slightly more efficient/seamless work space, and we don't expect seating at at the island/peninsula will get used much given how close the dining table is. Any thoughts on this revised layout?

Hi SonaandDi, In case you haven't come across it, here is the link to my finished kitchen: https://www.houzz.com.au/discussions/5598603/renovation-of-our-1956-red-brick-triple-fronted-home-all-done This layout has the potential for issues, but I tried to factor those in by noting where the fridge doors came to when fully opened. I should have allowed a little more width for the fridge gap, as the theory didn't quite translate in practice: on the plans I allowed the minimum of 20mm either side of fridge, but ended up with only about 13mm (was not fun getting the fridge in!). So my suggestion is to make sure there is 50mm either side of fridge. eg the fridge space is 1000mm wide for french door fridge around the 900mm mark. Even so, my doors do open fully (vegie drawers slide out unobstructed), as the doors themselves sit forward of the nib wall on the right. If your fridge space is wider, you won't need to sit the fridge out the full thickness of the doors, which may look more streamlined. But make sure you allow for 50mm space at the back of fridge. This will decide the depth of your nib wall. I calculated mine as 50mm plus the depth of the fridge to the start of the doors. You might prefer to make it a bit deeper, as the doors have more room to open due to the extra width of the space. It isn't annoying having the door opening over the pantry entry. It isn't often that someone wants to get to the pantry at the exact moment someone else opens the fridge. Even if that happened, you could get past if you couldn't wait: Good luck with your renovation! Because you can't be on site, I would always factor in more wiggle room. Let me know if I can help with any more info - I could talk about this stuff all day long!

I would be reconsidering my open plan options. Completely open plan living looks great but there can be privacy and noise issues for a family of four people. A traditional upright fridge is the most practical and cheapest option for your family. A wall, recess, or nook for your fridge should be part of your design brief requirements, otherwise you are making a huge compromise for your open plan concept. Best of luck, Dr Retro of Dr Retro House Calls