Neryl, like you I'm trying to decide should I replace my kitchen (total redesign) renovate (new bench, stove etc) or larger renovation (bench, doors, stove, etc). My dilemma with the Renos are there is always a little bit more to do; the stove won't fit into the existing space or the new sink is now in metric and won't fit and of course what about the taps??? As with your kitchen I have a breakfast bar that I'm thinking of removing (swinging back 90 deg to the wall running down from the sink, but what do I do then will the floor. The whole area would have to be done. As soon as you start one job there are four or five that will follow. So do I want to spend big dollars on a new kitchen, really I think that is the question. I would say to you don't pending anything at all until you have really thought through exactly what you want and what you can spend, don't through money away on a patch up that you will find in the long term unsatisfactory. About the design though, if you are renovating your house, what is behind that wall the stove is on and what space is there in front of the breakfast bar, where you stood to take the photo? Perhaps you could take a wall out and like me open up your space.. If you can put in a skylight for both light and aesthetics. But the only thing I would say though about the previous comments is unless you want to spend hours cleaning don't go for shelves and open displays unless you cook outside. I have a 'Chinese' kitchen and it tends to be very greasy but friends who have regular cooking and open shelves say they have to not just wipe the shelves over but clean all the display item really very often. I'm sorry all for having so much to say, I've never contributed before to something like this but I do really enjoy reading all the posts. Cheryl

I agree with Gallifrey, gloss and no stain is the way to go. Our brush box floors are nearly 20 years old and survived our youngest son rollerblading and riding his trike the length of our house. Yes, it does show dust a bit more, but it is much harder wearing.

Several decades ago, I grew up in a house with cork tiles in kitchen and sunroom - and I was a convert from then. Cork is warm to look at and to walk on, and is very forgiving when you drop things on it. Since then Ive had houses with tiles in both bathroom and kitchen (not my choice), and more than half an hour standing doing kitchen/meal prep, used to give me aching legs. I could never figure out why tiles were so desirable by all and sundry, until I found their advantages in a hot climate in summer - cool underfoot. But when I bought my recent house I was intent on putting cork down, but found I had vinyl wood-look planking in the kitchen - I have learned to love it, as it is : comfortable to walk/stand on (must have a good underlay?), things don't smash when I drop them, and so easy to clean - I really love it now, and with a couple of polyprop non-slip mats from Briscoes for extra underfoot comfort, I'm sold... Hope you solve your dilemma soon... :-D

Hi Chris The cheapest option is Grind & Seal, but we usually recommend Mechanically Polished Concrete for inside of a home. This is by far a better option, if you were to go for a Matte or Satin finish it is less expensive than a higher gloss finish. Mechanically Polished Concrete does not have a top coat sealer requiring drying and curing time and does not need re-applying in the future which will save time and money in the long run. Because Polished Concrete does not require drying or curing time it can be used as soon as the process is completed unlike the Grind & Seal option. All floors are slippery when wet, a non slip agent can be added to a top coat sealer which would be the Grind & Seal method which we do apply in a shower area if there is not a shower base. Polished Concrete in Matte and Satin finish does have a very good slip rating, has no grout lines as with tiled floors where dust can get trapped therefore it is a wonderful easy to clean flooring solution. Hope this helps, I have provided some details regarding the 2 main processes below There are 2 different finishing processes / methods that are commonly called Polished Concrete, they are very different so it is important that you know the difference & which process/method you want and which is being used on your concrete Polished Concrete - 12 to 17+ step process During this process the concrete is ground to the desired level of stone exposure. After grinding the concrete surface, the Polished Concrete process begins. This process has a densifier applied in multiple stages that is absorbed into the concrete which hardens and strengthens the concrete. A Polished Concrete Floor is Polished in Multiple stages in a Refining Process using diamond tooling & resin pads. A penetrating sealer is applied in the final buffing stage to complete the process The "Polished Concrete" process has "NO TOP COAT SEALER" applied therefore there is no drying or curing time required so your space can be used as soon as the process is completed Grind & Seal (a 3 to 4 step process) This is NOT Polished Concrete. Grind & Seal is often referred to as Polished Concrete, this is the cheaper substitute that gives a "Polished Concrete Look" With the Grind & Seal method the concrete is ground to the desired level of stone exposure and a TOP Coat Sealer is applied such as water based, solvent based, urethane, acrylic or epoxy requiring 5-7 days to dry & cure