Bathrooms are difficult. I can relate to all you are going through! Your are very lucky to have the window. and putting the toilet behind a solid wall will most likely take away your light source. Sure you have thought about the alternatives: - Similarly to an idea - Lampert Dias Architects Inc. put forward . . . What about a frosted glass wall shielding the toilet from the view as you open the door? Completely frosted or glass with a band (e.g. 42") of sandblast through the lower area, even with a clear area the bottom few inches - to get max light. Or a semi solid wall, solid on the bottom half and frosted glass on the top area or wooden vertical slates or plantation shutters on the top half. (though this may look too heavy keep it simple, keep it light - this is what I like about the pic you posted) Unless you are able to make the wall quite long you may still risk the chance of still being able to see the toilet when you open the door - the ultimate test is what you see when you open the door. Putting your shower where the toilet is now is a good idea, then you can create a wall of glass, even frosted glass, you retain the light and shower in a beautiful space (like the pic you posted) - But is there an alternative place for the toilet? Hopefully you can place the toilet behind the door or similarly out of the way. Lampert Dias Architects Inc. idea of the french doors opening onto the garden from your shower is fantastic - we are hoping to do this in another bathroom which will contain a bath. But your situation may not allow this. Also, and this may not apply in your case, some people may argue the negative of your ideas . . e.g. some will say having the shower where you now prepose (in front of the window) risks see a naked body when you open the bathroom door but that's got to be preferable to an intrusion on ones privacy. (Sure Houzz has done a piece on this exact subject) - hey that's their opinion, all you can do is work out the best alternative for you and your situation and stick to it. Hmmm . . . We have been think about the layout of the interior, as you original discussion is all about water falling on window frames, but what of the view from the outside of the window? Is the window just a small one usually found next to or behind a toilet? If privacy is an issue Lampert Dias Architects Inc. sandblasted idea is a good one or a textured glass. Think it through, take your time even though you are keen to get it done. Patience may save you some money and get you what you want and need. G'luck with your project!

Since this thread started I've moved house and renovated two more bathrooms and this "step" issue is definitely becoming a headache. You know, we are such slavish followers of trends, I just have to wonder at times how much we are becoming victims of them too. When I built my first house over 50 years ago, most homes were built on piers with timber flooring and concrete was only used in bathrooms and laundries, but the levels were adjusted so when tiles were laid in wet areas the transition was minimal. Floor tiles were also thinner than today's tiles, in most cases they were smaller tiles too and not these great slabs we use today that obviously need to be thicker for strength. Now we are building more slab on ground homes, no provision is being made for the thickness of floor tiles to ensure a more seamless transition between areas. My front entrance is tiled and has a 2cm "step" down to the lounge and family room areas and even that 2cm I find people constantly tripping over. I plan on removing these tiles and replacing the whole entry/kitchen/family area with vinyl planking. Carpet in the lounge room helps offset that step a little but I was told recently by people who have addressed this issue this way that putting an extra layer of underfelt within the doorway area works very well to help offset this problem. When I renovated the ensuite I now have this step issue but the tiles had been glued down with an unknown product of super strength that gave my bathroom guy a lot of grief trying to jackhammer up - took him 2 days to remove them and screed the floor to his standard - and he decided he could not do the main bathroom in a realistic time frame to meet the price he quoted me, he felt he could not even guarantee the standard of work he wanted to achieve so his suggestion was to tile over the existing tiles and when he got to the doorway he would add an extra part tile sloping to down to the floor level similar to what pucciplan described with his timber. He assured me he had done it with many other renovations, it was barely noticeable and would solve the issue much easier and cheaper for me and far less time consuming. In the meantime as I have carpet in the hallway we heard of the idea of using an extra layer of underlay and I've chosen this option. My laundry is right opposite the bathroom and those tiles will be replaced too. On close inspection of the original construction, we discovered no waste drain was put into the laundry, the tiles were drained towards the external door, which is apparantly acceptable .............EXCEPT, they then put a dam across the floor inside the doorway to stop rainwater coming in under the external door!!!! Now the laundry tiles will be laid over the top of the existing ones as well to allow for any possible accident needing drainage. Fortunately I've had no weather issues but we will put a rubber flap at the base of the door, just in case, and I will again do the extra layer of underlay under the carpet and hopefully will achieve a satisfactory result. At least the two doorways will match. Quite frankly though, I'm finding so many design issues these days, I really think the whole home building industry needs a thorough overhaul. I think as I age too, so many more issues are coming to light BUT they are obviously issues that could affect anyone of any age. I think we need to forget "trends" that don't consider the big picture of things and come back down to basic commonsense. HU - I'm really at a loss as to how your builder managed to get a 6.5cm step to the bathroom, that is absolutely ridiculous. The only thing I can think of is there may have been a slope issue for drainage, but surely it could still not have been that much, anything that much out should have been picked up when the building was inspected during construction. "Normal" is a good excuse for laziness or shoddy workmanship. I think from reading your posts, you are in an apartment?? You would then have slab floors?? Therefore I can't see the need for the step to be above 2cm. Definitely take this further - Fair Trading should be able to help you, the standard heights for steps varies according to location and use - it is a bit of a minefield to work out. Good luck. Amanda - how did all your renos go in the end? Sounds like you are still sane. :)

Hi Chris Just following up your request for further info between double glazing and/ or filming single glazing Etc Your more than welcome to call me direct here in Tassy for a more detailed info. that’s not possible via this comments section . But just to highlight a few things for all interested readers . Firstly , it’s important to understand the “ Technical” differences between both single & double glazing ( particularly the different types of additives/ manufacturing processes etc that’s goes into making glass that can make a difference to how they perform technically and the ability to do what you want it to do and then theirs the choice of aftermarket window films . Whether the choice of an aftermarket window film application is considered to either single or double glazing to solve one or more problems, one must understand the pros and cons as to the window film manufacturers guide lines and their recommendations as to what type of film should be used or avoided considering the different window components and the different types of glass that goes into making the final window product . Secondly ; and equally important ; one must understand the differences between radiant heat and convection heat . Unless the glass is specially treated at the glass manufacturers or has an added solar film coating applied ( such as suitable window film ) when compared to clear glass and whether as a single glazed or a double glazed unit ; will NOT stop all the direct RADIANT heat through the glazing . Double glazing , or even triple glazing , works on the same principle like a thermos flask ; to reduce / slow down the transfer of CONVECTION currents ( hot or cold air temperatures ) from one side to the other . Radiant heat and convection heat are two different things and requires different ways to solve the problems . Double glazing is designed to reduce “convection” air temperature from moving from one side to the other , of the window . Other additional manufacturing processes can improve both insulation and heat reduction abilities . You mentioned a ceramic film and the infra red ( heat component ) reduction. I was wondering why a ceramic film was mentioned compared to say either a semi or fully reflective film choice !!!! Don’t get confused with all the advertising thats on offer via sales reps pushing their product as being better than other film options unless you fully understand both the advantages and disadvantages. One must compare apples with apples when comparing any technical data as many companies don’t all stick to a common standard tech specs making it difficult for customers to compare and often confused . The two main considerations when choosing a film ; particularly when double glazing is installed ; is the :- total solar energy reduction ( SER) and secondly the amount of absorption of heat ( SEA ) into the glazing . These are the two main factors I look at when heat transmission is a problem for a customer . The SER is the amount of the overall reflected away from the glazing and the SEA is the amount that’s is absorbed into glazing ( glass ) as this will effect how much increase in the overall temperature of the glass Particularly the panel which is tinted in a double glazing application which is normally the room side . The main problem if the glass temperature increases , it will increase the chance of glass breaking due to thermal stress .( gets too hot it will eventually break ) . One also has to take into account the quality of the glass , particularly most being made in Asia now .where quality may be an issue compared to Australian made glass .!!! Basically You need high SER with the lower SEA as an ideal choice . From my experience with over 40 years in the window tinting industry here in Tasmania that the fully reflective film I often use ; particularly on double glazing ; is a number one choice ; then secondly the less reflective MEP films neutral based film either in the suggested medium grade as generally the two films the manufacturers suggest in their guide lines As single glazing goes , between the full reflective or secondly the darker neutral ( a cross between the medium neutral and full reflective films ) I’d be interested in see the data on the ceramic film choice for me to compare to out of interest . The three films I’ve mention are by no means the only choices but many other factors comes into play that need to be taken into consideration . Much more on the subject but hope this may offer some interest to discuss further . Protek window tinting & blinds (Tas)

Thank you everyone. Decoro, I am afraid I am in Regional Vic., but thank you for the offer. At this stage I have decided to go with sheers but not right to the ceiling - I am going to try them hung from about 70cm above the frame, which is almost level to the ceiling over the kitchen. That way, they are still higher than the window itself, but still leaves me with the 'sky' views through the clerestory windows. The other windows will have double rollers, in a dark, charcoal colour for both the sheer and the block out. Again hoping that will look OK, as most people go for lighter colours (ie white) but all of the walls are Dulux Whisper white, and the window frames are black. When the blinds are down at night, I didn't want to be surrounded by white. Fingers crossed I've made the right decision.