Good point Karen. Apologies, oversight from my end! Not sure how tall or how high up your window is near the new shower suggestion, but that said, the shower bays usually work well best in the corners of the bathroom due to glass height and line of sight. Covering a window area could be frowned upon by a potential buyer! How about something different. Here's a new idea: Keep the toilet closest to the deck in the same place. Where the sink currently is, consider a narrower shower bay in this space instead. Either a small corner 850 shower so the door opening does not open directly facing the toilet (with a narrow door panel of 600) or a narrow shower bay 820x820 (but you will be restricted and the door may not open full-span). Or a shower option with stacked doors so you don't need to open the doors within the floor space. I'm taking a guess, but the distance to the edge of the window looks approx. 900 from the corner, hence suggesting a smaller/narrow shower bay so it's not right on the edge of the window. Then, where the sink originally was, move this further along the wall - pending the type of shower you choose. Back to where you kept the toilet closest to the deck, you could then put a towel rail (850) next to it, to give you maximum space to try to move around in that floor space near/around shower/toilet area. Next to the towel rail, you could then turn the bath tub in the other direction, so it runs the length of the long wall. Alternatively, if you want that little bit more space, you could put the towel rails above the bath area? That said, the second toilet closest to entry door will be removed. Along the 3190 wall, it'd be toilet (700), towel rail (850) and small bath space of only 1640 so the window won't be obstructed. If towel rail above bath, plenty of room for a slightly longer bath. For the wall running the length of deck, toilet 650 (plus at least 550 clearance in front) and then shower bay (if 820-850) pending type. You do have the challenge of the windows as they're in both corners of the room and the door is in the third so you really only have one corner left to place the shower - unless it sits in the middle of the bathroom layout, which could be tricky on the eye. Have you thought about a combined bath and shower if this layout isn't an option? You will be able to create a "space" in this living room area - you may just need to have side tables selected rather than a coffee table in the middle. I'm sure the stylist can work their magic for you! Goodluck on the renovation and also the sale of the house.

i'm glad you're planning to reroute access to the garage: clumsy traffic pattern change a generous room into a big hallway and can't stop thinking about your kitchen..1. where you have narrow cabinets/shelves in the pantry...it's possible to have built in shelves inside the dividing wall (think about the size of what you want to store: cans, bottles, skinny packets? and put 60cm base cabinets on the other side, next to the freezer 2. i can't see the yellow highlights for stools 3. width of pantry is subject to you wanting to keep the door to the formal living room...if so, measure 150mm past the door opening and that's the minimum width of the pantry but 1500mm allows space to comfortably walk past your freezer and have full size base cabinets with pantry drawers (cleaner than open shelves) 4. space between the b'fast bar and 'fridge should be at least 90cm but if you choose a wide b'fast bar and a big 'fridge a bigger space is preferable (stand a couple of chairs 90cm in front of your current fridge for a few days and see how it feels) direction of fridge door opening is also critical, first for the cooks and then everyone else: if the size of the b'fast bar can be enlarged or reduced with overhanging counter then a change of walkway is not so difficult 5. as suggested by girlguide, the cooktop and rangehood might be better on the outside wall for ventilation 6. there seems to be a lot of small cabinets and drawers in your plan and there could be some better (and cheaper) combinations but when i tried to access IKEA kitchen planner to confirm available sizes it's not responding today 7. i've attached my suggested approximate base cabinet sizes: starting with corners and work outwards, aiming for the biggest standard carcases and then add drawers to suit purpose ..

My suggestion would be to contact a concrete specialist and ask for a quote to get your aggregate concrete honed/grinded. Getting the concreted honed will give a more friendly surface.

I'm interested in chatting with some people currently in the renovation market for research on a new platform that will tag paint types and colours and show you the closest property with that colour. If you are interested in looking at a prototype please email me at greg@whobuiltthat.com.au. Thanks.