Hi Doug Sorry, but my first question is why are you commencing construction without the engineering a) resolved and b) approved? If it has been approved then it is a variation and you are quite within your rights to question the engineer as to why the changes are now being put forward compared to the original approved drawings and what are the alternatives. If he has made a change to the original approved design then there needs to be a very good reason he hasn't issued revised drawings to both you and the drafty before sending anything to the fabricators. If he has sent revised drawings then I would be asking some very hard questions of my drafty. If it has not been approved and is being done on the fly then this method of construction is fraught with danger both from an approval and $$$$ perspective by proceeding without a fully resolved design. Your draftsman should be integrating the engineering into their drawings and discovering any clashes BEFORE final drawings are released for approval by the local authority and working around any issues. If there is an approval in place then there has to be engineering drawings around. Additionally, I certainly wouldn't be sending any drawings from an engineer direct to fabricators without them having correlated with the architecturals and without the drafty being in the loop. There is a breakdown somewhere that needs to be fixed otherwise it is going to cost. If i recall correctly, this is a floating concrete cantilevered floor? I would be surprised if anyone on here is going to be able to offer an engineering solution without seeing the whole design and/or loads. In truth, I would be having a chat with your engineer and see why the change or engage him to find a solution to what you now have. I would also be putting aside the design priority and focusing on what is going to work from the engineering perspective. That is the priority for this type of build. There are always ways to accommodate protrusions by making them a feature or covering them with a false facade/beam. Would need to see elevations to offer suggestions. As to the height I would suggest you post some sections of the whole room with elevations. Cheers

Hi Deonne If your bathroom requires the two doors, my suggestion is NOT to have a bath. Keep it very clean and neat Across the recess have either a walk-in shower with a 600mm opening OR a glass panel and door. You may consider a seat in the shower ( example on our website ) A recess ( niche ) for shower 300mm high max length Wall hung, all drawer vanity. In-wall cistern toilet suite. Mixer diverter, overhead and handheld shower. Quality tapware, with min 10-year warranty Porcelain floor tiles min 300 x 300. Tile to ceiling, ( unless home has high ceiling, if high, tile to an architrave height ) min tile size 600 x 300, Ceramic to rein in cost

This article has a good discussion about distance from the viewer as well as height. https:/https://www.houzz.com.au/magazine/the-full-picture-how-high-should-your-tv-be-stsetivw-vs~88991249

Therefore for your scenario, I would recommend 1100mm. Think of someone standing at the cook top, and someone standing at the sink, at the same time. Or assuming the oven is under the cooktop, can the oven door be opened and someone still be able to safely walk past the fully open door, since it is also opposite the sink.?? It depends on your family and how many people would use the kitchen at one time. I have 1300mm, and that is perfect for a busy kitchen.