i understand that waterproofing is supposed to be a continuous membrane and not patched and, depending on the age of the original bathroom there may not be an existing waterproof membrane, there could be asbestos and/or damage caused when removing the old bath or other surprises... you might be able to find the necessary tradespeople willing to do what you ask but i would'nt expect them to guarantee the waterproofing

Contact Velux (skylights). Sounds odd perhaps but their installers are well experienced with water proofing, roof's, etc. or try a roof plumber experienced with terraces. Not just any roofer but one with terrace experience. I know a Velux installer and he makes up his own flashings, etc as well as being a great builder. Unfortunately he's no where near you.

HI All - for some reason my lengthy reply a few minutes ago was deleted :-(. I put so much thought into it! So here it goes again. Basically a big thank you to you Houzzers. MB your subfloor ventilation sounds great and Im glad it's fixing the problem so simply. The reason why Im trying for a whirligig solution is that I favour a passive system, however if it doesn't work I'll look into what you suggest Siriuskey - yes to some kind of kit. I've already contacted a guy on Gumtree selling grannykit frames - he says for something to my specifications would be about $4000 for the steel frame alone. Would need to check engineering details - and the liveable sheds you've linked me to seem to have that all checked. Although getting a local Chippie to frame it all up on site - as Twos Co suggests - is probably the most economical option Two's Co - thanks for the feedback and the excellent checklist of processes. I've covered most of the concerns though - I've got the DA based on my own flimsy plans. Because it's relatively small, I was going to work with the builder directly and over-engineer it. I've since engaged an architect to do some handsketches and draft specs, which will be signed off by a structural engineer. It's basically a portal frame independent structure, with a 3 degree pitch skillion roof. The house was rewired and the wires you can see are non-live looms waiting for the extension! The sewer is not connected and that part was never plumbed in. There's good rear lane access, but for the purposes of getting concrete in, I'll most likely get a concrete pump from the front of the house - for $180 per hour they will save time and make the concreting much easier. The existing trench I got dug in because I had an excavator on site installing those lovely large concrete blocks you can see, for the retaining wall (500kg each). But that was 7 weeks ago, and the excavation has got too large, and I worked out for a very similar cost I can make the extension 1m wider, so why not. The existing trench I can fill in with the demolition rubble, compact, and filled with any fill waste. Two's Company, I'm on the fence about removing the existing Bedroom 3. If I thought it wouldn't add to the costs too much, I'd do it. One advantage is that I could then make the whole 9m long extension (Option 2) around 150 - 300mm higher, (ie a step up from the existing house) and thus avoid too much excavation and a potential pond. To answer your question about damp and moisture, the whole house is facing a hill with 7 degree slope, and fixing this has been the main aim of the retaining wall, however the runoff is only likely to increase in coming years. anyway here are a few photos. The site is still so messy because the demolition only happened 2 days ago - Im still tidying up....

I own commercial property , and I'm trying to work out what you are wanting to achieve ? You say you want to join all 3 . Is that by adding more floors , more walls , more roofs , more windows ? Or get a crane and excavators and move them closer together ? Do you have a potential tenant or even idea of the type of tenant you want ? What are they looking for ? Most tenants , no matter what size , want a workshop/warehouse area , and offices . These don't seem to have offices , toilets , etc . So instead of spending $100k moving or closing in , and then finding no-one wants that size , or doesn't want that size without 100sq mtr of modern looking office too , have you done some research ? You may ( or may not ) find that having 3 entrances ( yes , it may need 2 or 3 posts in the fenceline , and another gate , and some more mesh ) and 3 offices , you can get 3 tenants who will pay more than 1 larger tenant , and/or one can close or move -- that is easier to re-lease than a more specific larger premises . Conversely , the market may want your 'new' size' , but do they want that style , that age , that location ? Building offices may work out being not much more than closing everything in ? You hopefully have asked all those questions , but your query was a bit vague . Then , and only then , would I even consider paint colours , I'd keep it real neutral BUT I'd actually only do the one end facing the busiest street ( as bigreader says , most companies want some corporate branding ) and me being me , I'd paint the flashing just on the part facing the street in bright orange or fire engine red or vivid green -- literally $50 worth of paint , just to get it noticed and stand out , knowing it is likely to be scraped off or repainted , but to make the building noticable for the right reason , and make the new tenant/s think .