we can't read the wording on the floorplan but it looks like the designers have produced what you asked for internally although i would prefer a simple verandah across the front door instead of the gabled porch. The feeling of a high ceiling can be achieved by having a raked ceiling over the living, dining, kitchen and stairwell, tall enough to have generous ceiling fans without having to raise the ceiling of the whole upstairs. Install an opening window as high as possible in the stairwell to improve stacking ventilation (with electric window openers) Overall ventilation can be improved by aiming to have an entry and exit point for breezes on opposing walls in every room and short horizontal windows (like the ribbon windows on the old east elevation) tucked up high as possible under eaves on east and west walls rather than tall narrow windows can improve daylighting and help reduce overheating. Consider security fly screening the external areas to exclude harsh sun and bugs and allowing stacking doors to be kept open and the outdoor areas to be used as much as possible (with the screens on the outside openings the stackers can be installed without their screens, improving the connection to outdoor living areas)

Hi Susan, My husband and I have just completed a tiny house build, and I can definitely recommend it. The price works out much cheaper than a shipping container house according to my research ($60,000 as compared to close to $100,000 fully finished) and you can easily enough rent a parcel of land to live on rather than buying to build on, at least initially. Obviously you need to carefully research council restrictions for wherever you decide to live, but this could be a much easier and cheaper option for you. Depending on the size, setup and local zoning, tiny houses generally don't need DA approval. Instead you register it as a caravan and if you rent a parcel on someone else's land where there already is a permanent dwelling, you're generally fine to live there (though I'm certainly not an expert on the legalities). Then if, in the future, you're able to buy your own block, you can hitch it up to a ute or 4WD and move it with you. Something to consider anyway, and starting from scratch with a tiny house on wheels can actually work out a lot easier than retrofitting a shipping container with internal framing and walls, insulation, windows, doors, etc. But as everyone else has suggested, make sure you do your research properly and do what will work best for you in the long run.

There is no easy answer to this as it depends on your budget, the condition of the existing slab under the carpet, and the order that you are going to approach your renovations. Have a look at one of my Secret Design Studio's Pinterest boards for inspiration such as this one:https://www.pinterest.com.au/secretdesign/aussie-mcm-interiors/ Parquetry is appropriate for the age of the house, and can be staged according to your budget and renovations, and is easy to work around existing cabinetwork. You need to carefully consider which comes first the kitchen, or the kitchen floor if you are planning to renovate the kitchen, but parquetry does give you better flexibility than a tiled finish. There are so many other options available that may suit your home so do your research, or engage a professional who specializes in mid-century homes, and don't go with anything that will date it as an early 21st century material or renovation (like polished concrete). None of my clients want to live in a museum, everybody wants 21st century conveniences, but still respect the heritage of the home. Celebrate what you are lucky enough to own, rather than modernise to be like every other current renovation. Feel free to check out my Houzz reviews. Best of luck, Dr Retro of Dr Retro House Calls

Thank you everyone for your responses. I’m still undecided - I have a few weeks to consider what to do. The bench top salesperson showed me some photos of the few people who have added a small amount of benchtop stone to add some height (and it’s always because of a busy 60 x 30 patterned tile that the owners want to keep perfect) and in her words it looks ‘dicky’. Not least because the tile sits flatter against the wall than a 2cm thick slab of benchtop. It leaves a pronounced lip of 1.5cm where tile meets benchtop addition Then there’s the safety concerns mentioned above about flames near stone which I had not considered. Big reader - I love your maths but I’m only 150cm tall. Even with a low bench and oven height of 94cm (my oven’s lowest height setting) plus 70cm of tile between the bench and overheads, the cupboards are already 14cm above my head. This barely makes them usable for me even now! Adding another 15cm instead of the 10cm, while looking lovely and keeping the pattern intact, means my short-arse self will have real difficulty reaching anything safely. Every cm counts when you’re short! But I do appreciate your input!