If you want it to recede into the surroundings use a dark colour such as Woodland or Monument. Use it on walls and roof. Using it vertically and horizontally would add a nice feature to it when up closer. The hardwood for trims, architraves, etc. would look fantastic, in particular if they were kept oiled rather than left to go grey.... A light colour would mean the dwelling could be cooler in summer perhaps but shading from tree's may work just as well. If a light colour was used it would stand out from kilometres away.... not ideal at all.

we need to have a better understanding of the current spaces...do you have a floor plan of the original house (usually shows lines for the roof ridges and valleys as well as measurements)...also need to know the height from ground level to the bottom of the gutter on the original house and the height of the wall from ground level to the underside of any existing gutter on the "outhouse" (quite confusing 'cause where i come from an outhouse is usually a "dunny" or outdoor toilet!) is the ground between the house and the outhouse level, how many steps up from ground into the house, is the floor of the courtyard already paved? is the floor of the outhouse level with the courtyard or a step up?...please advise the length and width of the outhouse and the distance from the house and any side fences...the attached plan is an approximation that needs accurate dimensions but most most important is the heights above the ground

colorbond will always scratch if not carefully handled - that's why the flat/flashing sections come supplied with plastic protection......colorbond colours are essentially just a quality/proprietary paint application to the zincalume material......the risk is actually more the other way around in regards to corrosion, say if you mix & match steel/gal gutters that have run off from zincalume sheeting, or lower sections of older gal roofing catching run off from zincalume gutters above - that's when you get accelerated rust-out situation..... If you have had everything replaced with the same material, scratches or intact, you should be OK........ BTW any roofing will buckle when walked on - the roofers should know to only walk over where it's supported structurally....possibly the older heavier gear would hold better, because back then they made it thick so it lasted for longer......but then new technology with zincalume enabled thinner and more durable material that was easier to throw around, but equally requires more careful handling when fitting

Colorbond will look handsome on that home. If it were possible to repair the roof and retain the tiles I'd do it. But if budget does not allow then sure a tin roof will be fine also. Australia has a long and proud historical use of tin. I live in a heritage town, every house in it from 1880's right down to 1960's has a tin roof, including many homes of that era. If that house were weatherboard built in the exact same year, it would have a tin roof anyway. I'm a history fan, I'm a preservation freak, but sometimes practicality needs to take centre stage and that is exactly what the people who built the house would have chosen had their budget not allowed the tile. For my money, given the lovely colouring of your brick I would go with a Jasper roof, that nice bronze with pick up the detail of your brick and look good and also work with the existing trim. Another thing you can do to avoid the cheap roof look is choose a different profile to the tin. This roof is the same pitch as yours on a similarly proportioned building. The profile however is what makes it look more heritage than a standard corrugation. Not sure if BHP do this profile but I'm pretty sure that Lysaght do. The one thing I would be careful not to do however, is change the pitch of the roof if the trusses also need to be replaced. It's pitch is an essential character of that home and are necessary for right proportion.