@ chookchook2 Very funny play on words! What about some of those lizards with suction caps on their feet...or frogs...although not mammals, still animals, they walk up vertical surfaces...and...just to make this light...in Charleville, Far Nth Qld. big green frogs live under the rims of toilets and.....yep, I screamed my lungs out when a couple attached themselves to my bare behind! I was the brunt of jokes at the pub for weeks! @ Luke Buckle....still copies of animal skins...what is it with people who need to have what I regard as a "trophy of the kill" on their wall or wear the skin...even if its imitation? Crocodile skin shoes? UGH. Fake Lepoard skin trim on boots...double UGH...Graphics of animal skins to stick on things? Still don't like the idea. Have a friend here at present...she likes the patterns and has a leopard skin patterned dress and a pair of boots.....I asked her what the attraction was....just the pattern, she loves animals, especially cats...but still there's this hunter thing....don't get it but each to his/her own. Glad I'm not married to a man who loves animal kill trophies..couldn't stand it. But then...I buy only leather shoes and I eat meat and love leather upholstered furniture...where do I think that comes from? MMMM Tis a puzzlement! Could never come at a real animal skin on the floor...but I like my lambswool underlay and my wooly sheepskin mat????? Double standard hypocrit? Pot calling the kettle?

Hi cher323 I new that once I put it there I think even with the size bench you have would still look small so I'm opting for a console table which is 180cm long and 79 cm high then I will also look at maybe a bigger mirror or artwork to go above console. it was mentioned that as I have a round mirror already in my entrance having another round mirror would be too similar so will just wait until console arrives to decide. If I replace mirror with artwork in entrance, then maybe bigger mirror over console could look good.

The process of designing the home that you plan to retire and grow old gracefully in can be a daunting and overwhelming one. Putting a little more effort and investment in at the initial design stages can save you time and money in the long run. With a few clever products that you may not even be aware exist, and a couple of important fore-thoughts you can rest assured that whatever may happen in the future, your retirement home is up to the job without looking institutionalised. Floorplan, Site & General inclusions Consider a single level home on a relatively flat block. The less level changes required the better. If you are purchasing an existing home and find this situation is too rare or outside your budget, look for homes that have living spaces and at least one bedroom and bathroom on the ground floor. If staircases are unavoidable ensure they are wide enough to accommodate a stair lift in the future (a minimum 820mm). Windows sills should be low enough that visibility out is possible from a seated position. Windows should be easy to open, close and lock. All doorways and entryways should be 820mm wide at a minimum with halls and thoroughfares 1000mm wide. This includes either side of the bed for access in and out. Undercover access from the parking area to the house is important to avoid slip hazards. If building a new home, plan for additional framework (nogging) as required in areas where you would later install grab rails. That is, by any steps, next to the toilet and in the shower area (see more under bathroom). Consider touch operated electrical switches or the larger style switches. Switchplates should be in a contrasting colour to the wall. Door Hardware Keys can be painful and difficult for older people and pin numbers can easily be forgotten. Fingerprint scanning door security is a good option if you can make the investment. If not an option, ensure any locks and opening devices can be utilised easily with one hand, avoid the kind where you need to turn the key while at the same time operating the lever. Ensure all door hardware is of the lever variety and all include safety release latches on privacy locks (or go without privacy locks). Knobs will become difficult to grasp and turn in later life. Landscaping Consider fencing that doesn't impede visibility from a seated position, enabling a person to sit and watch the world go buy and not feel too enclosed. Planting should be relatively low maintenance. Avoid planting a lot of trees that require annual pruning and consider native plants that do not require daily watering but attract wildlife to your garden that you can enjoy watching. Install sensor lighting to outdoor areas and all entryways. An accessible outdoor area with raised garden beds is also a good consideration to enable people with limited mobility to still enjoy time outdoors. Kitchen Your kitchen should be well lit with task lighting over working areas. There should be adequate space around working areas with good flow between functions. The benchtop and cupboards should contrast in colour to assist with visual impairment. You may like to consider including a benchtop at a lower level with leg space underneath in the case of future wheelchair access. This can act as an island dining table while not required for seated accessibility. A drawer that you can convert into a pull out work bench is an alternative. Power switches should be in a contrasting colour to the back splash. Ensure you include plenty of storage space in the base cabinets with drawers being a preference for ease of access. Overhead storage will be difficult to access in later life. Handles should be of the pull variety rather than knobs. Consider internal cupboard lighting for visibility. Appliances should have simplistic, visual cues, be easy to operate and be clearly identifiable as 'on' or 'off'. Bathroom The bathroom is usually the one area where the greatest amount of re-thinking is required. What is traditionally kept small and private now needs to consider accessibility and assistance. Bathrooms should be large enough to be able to move freely with a mobility aid and leg room under basins may be something you like to consider in case of wheelchair access. Separate toilet rooms need to be large enough to allow for grab rails, or toilet chair and a wheel chair or walking frame. They also need to be large enough that a person can be assisted. The ideal size would be 1000mm wide by 2000mm long. If this is not achievable with your current floor plan you may consider installing a toilet in the main bathroom area, which may mean foregoing or removal of a bath tub. Additional framework (nogging) should be planned along the wall next to the toilet and on the rear and one side wall of the shower enclosure to incorporate grab rails at a later date. These should be located on either side of stud 800 - 810mm from floor level. The shower should be hobless, with no track or step that could cause a trip hazard and be large enough for wheelchair, frame or shower chair access (around 1200mm square is optimum with 900mm at minimum). Ensure the door, taps and shower head is positioned in a way that can be comfortably utilised by an assistant. The shower head should be on a rail to allow height adjustment and include a removeable handpiece on a flexible hose. Install flickmixer style taps for ease of operation. Temperature control is an important safety consideration when designing for old age. You do not want the chance of accidental scalding if the tap is bumped or operated incorrectly. Thermostatic mixing valves allow you to set the temperature of the water in your house or bathroom from a central point however they usually come with a high price tag. A much more affordable and simplistic option is to choose tapware that is fitted with an adjustable cartridge. This simple device allows you to limit the maximum temperature of an outlet by simply preventing the handle from turning passed a predetermined point (for more on this feature watch this video from Dorf tapware). Bathroom tile choice should take vision into consideration. An all white bathroom is not a good option for old age. As most sanitary fixtures are white, wall and floor tiles should be in a contrasting colour, as well as contrasting to each other (around a 30% contrast is optimal). See my post here for examples and inspiration. Decor Floor coverings should be easy to clean and maintain and have a good slip rating. The colour should be in a contrasting tone to the walls. Doors should also be painted in a contrasting colour for aiding visual impairment and dementia care. Window furnishings should be easy to operate, remote operated blinds and curtains are available and a good consideration if you can afford the additional investment. Ensure bookcases and freestanding furniture is secured to the wall to prevent toppling over in the case of someone grabbing it for stability. If this still seems overwhelming for you then we are here to help. Billy Hoo Studio offers interior design consultations Australia-wide via our online service with a designer experienced both professionally and personally in design for accessibility, assisted living, dementia care and over 50's living. Please get in touch to talk further about how we can help. To see full article click here

Two options for your floor For a Quality Bathroom Renovation 1) Best Option Remove existing yellow tongue, the sheets may extend be under the walls to the adjoining room, can be done...NOT an easy job, hand saw and chisel 2( Hardies Ceramic Tile underlay nailed onto the existing yellow tongue, MUST be nailed to manufacturers specifications. Nails, as specified and spacing as specified. 3) Walls ...Plumb Studs, add noggins for vanity, recessed shaving cabinet et all check top and bottom plates 4) Rough In Plumbing 5) 6) Rough In electrical 7) Insulate walls with Sound Check Insulation,,, Add flashing angles in corners... 8) Fix Hardiflex to specifications 300mm centers, galvanized clouts if using wall tiles up to 15 mm use 6.5 thick villaboard, if over, use 9 mm villoaboard 9) Sikaflex with 11FC all gaps villaboard to floor, 10) Waterproof , apply ( Davco K10 plus, easy one to apply. not toxic nor inflamable whole floor, showed say 300 above shower screen 1 metre to sides of the shower, 600 above bath, vanity, 400 around remaining bathroom walls 11) Shower wall to floor, and about 300 past shower, add Polyester Bandage abt 100 mm wide 12) Fix water bars to, shower and door ( MUST be level ) with Sikaflex 11 FC 13) Second coat of waterproofing to all areas 14 ) Tiler to "top floor"/ lay tile bed, 15) After drying 4/5 days, WATERPROOF on top of tile bed, with another Polyester Bandage in shower area....the waterproof on top of the tile bed is to keep the tile bed dry .. two coats in shower 16) Commence tiling