The next time I decorate by a colour of the year will be the first time. Don't hold your breath. I have nothing against this particular colour but it doesn't work with all the things I've collected over the years, and I am not about to discard carpets bought after hard bargaining with dubious merchants in Istanbul or Islamabad because they don't "go" with a paint colour that someone voted "colour of the year." In its place, I think the colour would be quite nice (better than this years choices, certainly). It's just that my place isn't the right place for it.

This explanation may help, Source: https://www.renovatorstore.com.au/blog/lighting-and-power-in-your-bathroom-the-simple-rules-to-be-safe/ REQUIREMENTS Zone 0: Inside the bath or shower. Any Lighting used here must have a minimum rating of IP67 (protected against immersion in water) Zone 1: Above the bath or shower to a height of 2.25m. A minimum rating of IP44 is required Zone 2: The area stretching to 0.6m outside the bath or shower and above the bath or shower if over 2.25m. An IP rating of at least IP44 is required Outside Zone: Anywhere outside zones 0, 1 & 2. Where water jets are not to be used for cleaning purposes, the general rules of BS7671 apply In addition to the above, if there is a likelihood of water jets being used for cleaning purpose in zones 1 and 2 a fitting rated a minimum IP65 must be used. Now that this has been explained, always make sure to purchase bathroom lighting according to these standards to make sure that your bathroom is always safe. You should also have this principle applied when you purchase other electrical devices such as heated towel rails, or a guide to where you'd put sockets in your bath for razors and other devices. This may also fix the common misconception that LED lights are not rated for bathrooms. Typical LED lights have an IP rating of IP66 which is more than the needed IP rating standard that bathrooms should have. - Not to mention you'd be saving a whole lot from energy bills in the long run.

Where it's always been I hope, just kidding. One thing you find on Houzz is the"Brief" is very brief so you don't have much to work with. With what was supplied and that the property was being "considered" for purchase, I wouldn't go any further. The current floor plan needed opening up which I did a rough layout for. the internal room could be kept if they wanted, just by using one of my favourite things, full height cavity doors/Barn Doors forming the corner of a room/rooms, no need for windows, could have an opening skylight if needed as per attached. If they purchase maybe the will look to extend, next chapter.

Like most things in building you get what you pay for. I would ask exactly what the builder has quoted. Yes, I agree $1000 to stick on a strip of cheap IKEA lights is too expensive. However he may be quoting on co-ordinating the cabinetmaker and electrician to recess a better quality, rigid, fitting into the underside of the cabinetwork, concealing the wiring and transformer so it doesn't take up valuable shelf space, or is on display, and wiring it back to your main kitchen light switch, so $1000 for all of this sounds very reasonable for the neatness, convenience and longevity.Have a look at the neat, recessed LED lighting that has been built into the side of this shaving cabinet, and is wired back through the wall to the light switch adjacent to the door. It sure looks a lot nicer than a cheap white plastic Ikea stick-on light that is plugged into a power point with the white transformer being a feature of your kitchen. The Ikea stick on LED strips often comes unstuck when subjected to the steam that builds up under an overhead cupboard in a kitchen from a kettle or a stove. Some builders are poor communicators, so if a quote seems too high ask him exactly what he has allowed for. Best of luck with your kitchen task lighting, Dr Retro of Dr Retro House Calls