Suggestions for Extention project in Perth WA
We are considering adding on a Master and Ensuite LHS of the house but trying to work out placement of a passage to enter.
Originally were looking to keep 3 Bedrooms and create 4th but there's only 5.5 m to fence line so limited space so we re-considered creating 3 Double bedrooms with 2 Bath instead.
We have teenagers so this would create more space for BIR, desk etc.
Our thought was to re-locate Bathroom to the back small Bedroom to create a passage way and Linen cupboard through to a new addition.
Also, thinking of extending the rear of home by 3-4 meters out for larger Kitchen and Living.
The Laundry is tiny so idea was to create a combination WI Pantry / Laundry and close up the sliding door. Alternative was to fill in the carport but this can sometimes look like a bad reno and I wonder about the sheet cost involved in extending Roof out.
North lies LHS of the house. Budget is around $160K so building up is out of the question.
Any comments or thoughts would be great... thank you :)
Comments (36)
oklouise
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoRelated Discussions
Boring fence... Suggestions please!
Comments (38)Here's what we did to cover a metal fence that surrounded us. We had an ugly (but brand new) Stratco metal fence that borders the rear house, plus down two sides of the house. Everyday that I looked out onto this metal fence from the kitchen window (with the view of the neighbours over the top of this fence) it became more unappealing, the more we dreamt of a vertical garden instead, but we knew that would take time or a lot of expense, and I couldn't wait that long for that fence view to disappear from view. The solution was some wicker fence cladding, we bought it in 1.8m high by 3 metre rolls from Bunnings (big hardware chain in Australia for those OS) for $30 per roll, it came in a variety of sizes, but we needed that to cover our metal fences. You can do this with a brushwood fence, or to create a barrier from the heat of fence to your plants, you can even clad your fence in what my husband calls "blue-board", it's a thin fibreboard, cheap to buy, in almost any size, it can handle any harsh outdoors, & you can render over it in, paint over or colour the render in any colour you like - a light sand or cream colour will look nicer against any green living vertical garden you choose to put in. My husband made a wooden treated-pine frame around each metal fence panel, and screwed the wicker fence covering to it, with a washer so it held on the uneven twigs that formed the wicker cladding. My husband did such a good job of this, we had a small tornado come through our suburb, winds up to 200km/hr -4 of our closest neighbours lost significant parts of their tiled rooves, but all we lost was one of the stratco metal fence panels, but not the twig fence screwed to the frame my husband made! It helped we were nestled with neighbours in rear & front strata subdivided blocks, houses beside & behind us.. but that wicker twig fence covering & the frame did survive our tornado. Here's what we did on the ground - You can see it a little in the photo's above; as ground cover (with some stone you can get delivered or they often loan you a trailer when you buy a load or 2) we had a couple of cubic metres of ord river stone delivered (mixed sizes) brought it out the back by wheelbarrow, laid it over some weed mat on the ground, creating like a dry river bed effect beside the decked paths down the sides that connect the front and back decks. On the far wall behind the cubby and the slow growing variety of bamboo, we planted several cutting of a friends Ivy that was like a green waterfall over her boundry fence. Within a year, with mains watering (on a timer with misted sprinklers for 5mins once a day that does all our potplants and the side & rear gardens too) we had our own green waterfall, we cut it back when it's long green tendrils start growing along the gound towards the house. A fantastic effect that is very hardy, and cost us nothing! We don't have the wicker fence surround down that side of the house as we don't see the ugly metal fence at all now. In the hottest parts of our summer (up to 46-47C degrees), a few of the ivy's leaves get burnt around the edges, but it's easy just to cut these off. We planted a smaller leaf, much slower growing ivy (on the right in the photos) in the ground on the back fence beside the wicker fence surround, and put up some wire horizontal lines for the ivy to grow along. The 2 bottom photo's are taken 1 year apart so you can see how much it's grown. If you put vines in pots, you will limit (or control) their ability to cover your fence. We cut holes in the weed mat, and planted about 4 native violet ground cover plants. The effect is quite beautiful now, in the heat of summer, the native violet wilts when it's thirsty, but always comes back when it's watered and after summer. We've also put several plants in pots along the fence line to create our garden "oasis" out beside the back deck and down the side (creating garden view from each of the bedroom windows as well as from the kitchen window out the back). We cut some lattice & this blocks out the view of the rear neighbours completely, plus with shadecloth backing on the lattice, it also protects the cafe blinds that surround our back patio from sun damage in summer when they are rolled up in summer. So whatever you plant along the fence, you'll need to create a narrow garden bed in the ground for it to grow well from (we bordered our garden beds along the side fence with narrow 25mm wide limestone blocks or perhaps with railway sleepers or you can buy coated tin garden bed border), most plants or creepers will thrive if they room to spread their roots, even if the fence is hot. There is a small leafed creeper (planted in ground), that sticks to the vertical surface, It has completely covered our stone pillars out the front garden, next to our front gate that looks fantastic - Can't recall what it's called though?? It's taken about 5 years to cover the pillar, but we only planted one (wish we'd bought more now, I've looked but can't find any more of it). We put 3 mid sized chinese jasmin's down the side (behind where the first photo was taken), in narrow in-ground garden beds down the other side of the house. It took a couple of years for these to take off and spread out along the fence line (length of our house), but in the beginning of spring this year they were all in bloom and it created a very fragrant as well as visually appealling cover over and through the wicker fence. The horizontal wire helped so we could wind the jasmin along it as it grew for the best coverage. I wouldn't use those barrels as planters for any vines or creepers, just create a narrow garden bed along the fence line (& beef up the soil quality with sheep or other organic fertilizer,) and even some soil wetter or water crytsals thar will hold the water amongst the roots for up to 3 months, helping any young plants make it out of their infancy so they live and thrive. The water crystals do expand into a gel once they absorb water, so make sure they are well mixed into the soil and buried below the surface around the plants roots for their best effect. The barrels would look better painted, with as mldesign0401 suggested, those strappy leafed plants like the Strelizia's (or birds of paradise), or a tree fern in a shady spot. My hubby also put a variety of herb seedlings into one of those half barrels, put some castors on the bottom of the barrel, as a gift for his Mum, and this way she can move her herb garden about, into the sun as it moves from season to season, in & out of the rain, etc, and she loves it!! Don't forget that a good part of the enjoyment of a garden is watching it grow over time, so beware of mass planting and consider what you plant and how much water and sunlight it gets from season to season. Some of the best advice we had, was have a look at what is thriving around your neighbourhood, ask your friends or neighbours for cuttings, don't be afraid to move plants around if they don't like the first spot you put them in, or if they don't look quite right in that spot. We were also quite ruthless with the plants we bought, chopped several into halves and quarters through the potbound roots (the native violet ground cover, the water-plants, several others), before putting them in the ground, so we spent far less that way. Cutting or chopping through the roots with a knife or shovel, cleanly instead of tearing them apart seems to traumatise the plants far less from my experience. We have an Orange Trumpet vine that does very well here in Perth in WA, but as it can handle WA's heat and still thrive, it might be good idea for someone else out there in Houzz reader land.. ,,although, it does take up a lot of real estate when it's completely covered a fence, it needs room or regular haircuts once established. Looks very impressive in bloom though! We have Wisteria along our front wall, we have trained it along the front boundary fences, it's tendrils of new growth need regular haircuts, but even though it prefers horizontal trellis's or an arbour, over a few years, we have succeeded in taming it onto vertical green fencelines. In spring, when the flowers drape like grapes on a vines, it's just gorgeous, even when it's just the green living walls, it's so much nicer to have living walls and to be surrounded in vertical garden (& that's why for me the fences that usually contain us, transform the space to make us feel different about the spaces that surround or contain us). Using lighting will create a different mood & effect after dark, spot lights or those bollard lights at ground level, and if you lay the wiring (or solar if it gets enough sun) when you're making the garden beds, putting in the plants at the same time, you'll be glad you did later on once everything has started to take off. Or you buy enough fairy lights to do the length of the fence line if you have outside power close by or can hide an extension cord somwhere. I love the sharing ideas and the stories side of this site, I need some help with a structure for shading our front deck by the pool; our West Oz summer sun is scorching- I'm sure the houzz community will have some ideas & photo's that will help us......See MoreFloors too red
Comments (59)Hi jdublya, happy new year and sorry about the late reply! I ended up doing the safe / lazy thing... left the floor untouched and painted a feature wall deep grey, as well as having two-toned grey curtains to both the sliding doors, and a dark grey area rug. The open plan living / dining gets lots of light, so it's still bright even with all the dark greys. We've paired it with mismatched sofas in light grey and brown, and sage green throws. Overall, it's still a "warm" look and not the cool Scandi look I would have preferred, but it's cozy and the greys have really calmed down the red. It's a lot more to my taste now than the show room furniture was. Bits of the floor finish are coming off though, I think (where the kitchen island stools have been dragged over the years by the past occupant), so in time I will get the opportunity to re-do the floor and it'll no longer be red!...See MoreNeed Help With External Colours and Design
Comments (17)totally agree and would not like to any of the above lollie pop colours, Using White & black trims is classic and ageless and works beautifully with the bricks and terracotta roof. The brief is to keep the budget in mind, and I agree with not rendering or painting the brick especially just the front. Other than what is already planned, I'd concentrate on painting windows and trims and as mentioned replacing the gutters and down pipes, making over the driveway and clean up and plant the garden. Something that might make the house look a bit more up to date is how the carport is filled, will the wall facing the street be board that's rendered , timber, cut metal sheets or 50's concrete blocks painted or not. When you used to fly into Sydney it was a sea of red roofs now they're all monument and the walls similar. cheers...See MoreLayout dilemma 70s brick house
Comments (41)Hi Do you need four bedrooms? If not, turn main bedroom into a kids room. Turn the lounge into main bedroom with en-suite, knock down the wall between the kitchen and the bedroom at the back of the house and then create one big open plan kitchen living dining across the back of the house. I envisage you would need to knock out the back wall of the house and add some square footage to get the space you would desire. You could also build a patio across the back with stacking sliding doors to create a beautiful indoor/outdoor living space that overlooks the pool. Good luck!!...See MoreHeather Gustin
3 years ago
differentways
3 years agodreamer
3 years agodreamer
3 years ago
Kate
3 years agooklouise
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoAllyson Bliss
3 years agodreamer
3 years agoMy quick sketch. Suggestion is to extend entire back of house 4 metres. Create new master bedroom with ensuite, utilising laundry or kitchen plumbing. Create new kitchen in existing family room. Create new entry hallway. Create new dining and living with windows on northern side into living area.
Or
create new kitchen on new wall for bedroom, so plumbing can be established on new foundations. Leaving family room as is, with dining having northern aspect.
If you work on approx 13000 x 4000 extension @ $3500 per square metre. Is $182k. So that could be your starting point for comparison to a new build. (Knock down and rebuild)
There are a lot of new home designs for this money available in Perth, and then you would qualify for both grants.
Allyson Bliss thanked dreamerAllyson Bliss
3 years agoAllyson Bliss
3 years agooklouise
3 years agosubject to at least 8m distance to the closest point of the eastern fence, my suggestion would be minimise any changes to the existing building and has a simple hip roofed extension off the family room/kitchen combining a new master suite, kitchen and dining area with northern outlook, the kids bedrooms and bathroom would be unchanged, master bedroom used as a study guest room, old kitchen modified for a generous pantry and expanded laundry, minor changes to the entry and a ventilating roof window or skylights over the family rooms...the extension is just over 50sqm with single walls, the work could be completed in stages as (apart from provision for suitable kitchen plumbing in the new floor) the new kitchen cabinets and alterations to the old kitchen and laundry need not be included in the first stage and could wait until funds allow
Allyson Bliss
3 years agooklouise
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agowith a clear plan of the old kitchen and laundry i can make a more detailed suggestion for the pantry but my first thought would be to block off the door to the lounge from the old kitchen as it's no longer needed.. this would make the lounge easier to furnish and the pantry and laundry much more functional ..something like this?
..but what's the closest distance to the back fence from the outside north end of the family room and the south end of the kitchen so i can work out the rear extension??differentways
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoI agree with DrRetro with such a small budget I would go with adding the Master to the carport which is already under the same roof and pushing the walls out to the eaves which has already been done in other rooms, access would be via the old laundry (need actual dimensions) Plus a powder room. The old larger bedroom becomes a Media/MFR keep the kids happy with having the same sized bedrooms and with this additional space keeps everyone happy. The powder room is well positioned for guests and outdoor access. The European laundry is suitable for a house of this size but don't recommend for larger homes. It looks like theres enough space out the front of the house for a double carport/garage when everything in the house is completed. The new exterior will need updating to work with original walls, cladding of choice would work well
Allyson Bliss
3 years agodifferentways
3 years agodifferentways
3 years agoAllyson Bliss
3 years ago
Austere Hamlet
3 years agodifferentways
3 years agoHarking back to your budget Allyson , I would look into pushing out to the eaves across the rear of the house and in two of the bedrooms next to the robes to create desk space.Open up the walls to the sunken lounge with the laundry supporting any load bearing needs. You can tell how old the program I am using by the furniture
dreamer
3 years agodreamer
3 years agoAllyson Bliss
3 years agodifferentways
3 years agoThe idea to extend out under the eaves was to add and use available space under the existing roof. you will see the 3 eave extensions marked with circles Both bedrooms would continue the bump out wall next to the robes for a desk space or other by using the bricks from the exterior wall and the return/Nib wall. The Nib wall between both the robe and desk would be framed out with timber and Gyprock so that all the original bricks ca be used in the new wall. A concrete base of approx 600 deep will need to be added to both new desk spaces.
The third bump out wall suggested was in the laundry space which would reuse the existing sliding door and bricks and bring it inline with the kitchen wall, once again it will need a fill in concrete slab of approx 600 deep but no extra roof expense applies.
The Carport I think has no walls so nothing to demolish there it would however need 3 new walls of brick or cladding as previously mentioned plus the extra narrow concrete slab on one short wall and part of the long wall.
Stepping from the old now wider laundry into the new Master you would need a new small slab across the end of the old Carport. This section would need a small section of roof to either sit up to or under the corner eaves, this could be slopping glass or Metal.
All renovations/ extensions will involve a need to match exterior walls which can be done by rendering or cladding, in particular the new walls ( the bedroom extension walls would include the existing robe walls)
All of this only requires the addition of a small roof section in the corner of the laundry and the carport Eaves, a small sloping glass roof here would add some Wow factor plus the aspect is perfect..
A few small additions can make such a difference for a smaller outlay.
A new double carport can be factored in to be done in the next stage as you have plenty of space to work with
You mention the use of a Modular system, along with OKL and my suggestions you could have a livable shed costed by local Professionals. would be interested to see what the difference is
differentways
3 years ago
PROBronika Carter Design
3 years agodreamer
3 years agodreamer
3 years agodifferentways
3 years agodreamer
3 years agodifferentways
3 years ago
Dr Retro House Calls