Hi Macymacmaples, I would go for a 120cm to be sure that you are not splashing water everywhere. The latest trend is these single panel showers but they do come with their own challenges that need to be addressed by a professional. A shower tray with proper drainage is a great way to start. The most common errors we see in renovations with such showers is that the drainage has not been thought through - so the water runs everywhere. This makes keeping a clean bathroom impossible. If you want to ensure that water splashing/running is not an issue, I always recommend a properly water-tight shower box. But the decision depends on practicality VS aesthetics and the advice of your builder.

Two options for your floor For a Quality Bathroom Renovation 1) Best Option Remove existing yellow tongue, the sheets may extend be under the walls to the adjoining room, can be done...NOT an easy job, hand saw and chisel 2( Hardies Ceramic Tile underlay nailed onto the existing yellow tongue, MUST be nailed to manufacturers specifications. Nails, as specified and spacing as specified. 3) Walls ...Plumb Studs, add noggins for vanity, recessed shaving cabinet et all check top and bottom plates 4) Rough In Plumbing 5) 6) Rough In electrical 7) Insulate walls with Sound Check Insulation,,, Add flashing angles in corners... 8) Fix Hardiflex to specifications 300mm centers, galvanized clouts if using wall tiles up to 15 mm use 6.5 thick villaboard, if over, use 9 mm villoaboard 9) Sikaflex with 11FC all gaps villaboard to floor, 10) Waterproof , apply ( Davco K10 plus, easy one to apply. not toxic nor inflamable whole floor, showed say 300 above shower screen 1 metre to sides of the shower, 600 above bath, vanity, 400 around remaining bathroom walls 11) Shower wall to floor, and about 300 past shower, add Polyester Bandage abt 100 mm wide 12) Fix water bars to, shower and door ( MUST be level ) with Sikaflex 11 FC 13) Second coat of waterproofing to all areas 14 ) Tiler to "top floor"/ lay tile bed, 15) After drying 4/5 days, WATERPROOF on top of tile bed, with another Polyester Bandage in shower area....the waterproof on top of the tile bed is to keep the tile bed dry .. two coats in shower 16) Commence tiling

Katrina My strong suggestions PLUMBING DRAINAGE. ONLY a Heel Guard linear grate at the door end SHOWER ROSE ( If you are replacing the ceiling, ceiling-mounted rose) IF NOT replacing the ceiling, with 2100 height of the ceiling ( Rose height ?? ) Discuss with company /plumber ) Rose position, if the shower is 950 + could be in long wall ( However, you will have back to glass when showering, my preference in door wall ) MIXER/DIVERTER, Default to o/head rose. divert to handheld rose, ( Prefer this combination, the majority of combination sets have chromed plastic components, are difficult to clean ( What will they look like 10/15 years? ) FLOOR The new floor must be of cement-based material, fixed as specified CARPENTER ( about $ 2,000, Labour cost ) Plumbing Timber Frame A NECESSITY. All walls must be plumb and straight. New floor, plumbing of walls, cut outs for recessed cabinet, niche, supporting timbers for wall hung vanity may take a carpenter up to four days and if you are moving plumbing he will have to return to fix down flooring days ( WALL LINING Thickness dependent on tile thickness if greater than 15 mm 9mm thick Villaboard is optimum 9 far more expensive to purchase and fix ) VIllaboard, or equivalent cement base product NEVER Water-resistant Gyprock WATERPROOFING Only double waterproofing to us is acceptable! Waterproofing under the tile bed AND on top of the tile bed UNDER FLOOR HEATING Check out kits and ask the Electrician to install ( he/she will be able to give you a quote ) They are not hard to install, however, Electrician needs to rough in GLASS PANEL ONLY 1200, 570+- is OK to enter shower most doors 600 TILING Step down 10/15 mm. floor graded to linear grate at doo end RECESSED CABINET NOT possible for structural reasons to have a 900 w cabinet line up with 900 w vanity. Any other questions, welcome Ken

Andrew, it’s all experience and learning. But if the real estate agent was selling that home, that is who you sign the offer and acceptance with. Yes the agent definitely works for the seller, so you need to be vigilant at all times. Then the real estate agent puts you in contact with a settlement agent to proceed with the purchase documents and transfer of money and Landgate information. You can also choose a settlement agent if you already know one. You have done the normal sequence of events in Western Australia. You can’t help if you think the real estate was dodgy, because they are the ones who were contracted to sell that home, you could not have avoided interaction with that agent. You could only have asked to deal with another agent from that real estate company. There is nothing wrong with what you have done to purchase YOUR home. Enjoy the home as is, and do your due diligence with every thing in the future when you are working out the renovations.