Given your coastal location and aims for both coherence and low maintenance, you have a wonderful opportunity here to landscape your garden entirely with natives. As you’ve already decided to start with lillypillies (careful to avoid the variety prone to psyllid - the most resistant varieties according to Don Burke are Acmena smithii and Syzygium luehmannii: http://www.burkesbackyard.com.au/fact-sheets/in-the-garden/flowering-plants-shrubs/best-lilly-pilly-varieties/#.Vq0lfMf2PNw), I suggest you refrain from mixing in exotics to any significant degree apart from specimen pots, or other feature items. This way you have control over high maintenance species which should be nurtured for their specialness rather than a becoming a chore to avoid. I spent time visiting friends and family on the Mornington Peninsula this time last year and was shocked at the mindless distribution of what would be considered rampant bushland pests (invasive weeds) in NSW. The entire peninsula seems to boast only remnants of bushland with robust integrity. Agapanthus – because of its hardiness – has decimated vulnerable parts of the NSW bushland (especially in the Blue Mountains), requiring teams of volunteers to hack it out from rainforest and catchment areas in all weathers. Of course aggies are most romantic lining a long gravel path to a mansion, but this does not appear to be your situation here. Forgiveable in past eras, there is now no excuse for beautiful, fire-prone coastal landscapes to be placed under siege by introduced species. A substitute native I have successfully grown is Libertia, which clumps beautifully, is hardy and has a lovely little white star flower in the spring. Herewith some suggestions for conceptualizing a native garden, whose purpose, while often forgotten, is to attract birds and butterflies and to generate beauty and harmony and a sense of peace. It goes without saying that bonuses to the spiritual dimension are the disappearance of weeds and a farewell to mowing. A guiding principle in selecting natives is to select species native to your area first; information is readily available online. It’s not a hard and fast rule, but can save heartache when it comes to planting trees and shrubs that have evolved successfully in other soils and climates yet may fail in yours. Suggest a drive around the area to observe established native gardens to gain inspiration. First off (so long as not near power lines) I’d echo your coastal gums by planting an advanced specimen bang on your front right hand corner boundary, from where you might radiate a rockery. Your front garden cries out for drama, and while a rockery may be your biggest expense, one or two large feature rocks placed among an undulating design can be filled with scattered smaller rocks and a wide range of sun-loving and architectural flowering grasses (e.g. lomandras, dianellas, fescues, grass trees, kangaroo paws, etc), gorgeous flowering native plants (e.g. correas, philothecas, westringias, waratahs, proteas, etc), shrubs (e.g. acacias indigenous to the area), and groundcovers (e.g. myoporum, pratia, and brachyscome, prostrate form grevillias, the beautiful rock cover scleranthus biflorus, etc) will bring endless birds and human happiness. As for shrubs and trees, the choice is endless, thus requiring planning in consideration of the growth habit and life of a tree - which in the case of acacias, may be a mere 15 years. Decomposed granite will keep large and small landscaped areas (such as paths and rockeries) free of weed and also provides nutrients to natives (cautiously spray weeded ground with a strong solution of glyphosate before laying gravel). Be careful not to place too much soil over the tops of roots when planting, as many natives absorb phosphorus this way. Seasol is fine as a wash-through fertilizer after planting, and planting just before rain is due is another handy tip for a nitrogen fix from mother nature. Frequented by nectar-loving and berry-eating birds, the long-lived Blueberry Ash (Elaeocarus reticulatis) has to be one of the prettiest native trees of all, with its grey green foliage all year, feathery pale pink flowers in spring, and blue berries in winter. It can be hedged, but is at its best lightly pruned. It is comfortable in semi-shade, so could be planted as a feature tree out the back, but could also be a stunning success as a hedge from your garage to the letterbox. Grevillias (Mallee Dawn has soft foliage and a lovely pale orange flower) and Callistemons are relatively fast-growing once established and will quickly attract native birds (especially honey-eaters which will then gain confidence to move into other protected areas of your garden; always best to place birdbaths among shrubbery - e.g. the white-flowered Leionema – to offer little birds rapidly disappearing from the Peninsula the protection they need). Victorian Christmas Bush is a mid-height stunner and Isopogon is fabulous planted under banksias and hakeas for a bushy spot. I one saw a gnarled old banksia out front of a house that was probably the most beautiful tree I have ever clapped eyes on, perfectly pruned with its trunk formed like a bonsai writ large). A weeping acacia cognata makes a great corner feature or specimen tree, and a native hibiscus will flower profusely and gloriously in full sun. Shade at back and side cry out for more romance. You might plant native violets to run up the side under a hedge, or to fill a corner rockery out the back. Suggest plant hedges/screens and feature trees first (thus establishing your shade ‘canopy’), and construct a temporary planter box somewhere out the back where you can bring on smaller plants and shrubs while waiting to decide where to put them. The squareness of the back garden can be broken up and softened by strategically placed trees and shrubs, e.g. a large native tree in the left corner, that segues into your lillypillies, under which you could landscape a seating area. You might consider a Kennedia, Clematis aristata, or Pandorea pandorana (Wonga Wonga vine) to cover the side fence behind the garage (and definitely the back shed!). You might add two more callistemons to surround the back shed to conceal it, as well as adding variety and interest. You might infest patches of your back lawn with a native variety, such as weeping wallaby grass (e.g. Griffin). You could dig a shallow trench along the retaining wall and plant a dwarf lillypilly hedge (or substitute, like dwarf acacia cognata) along its length. One might even concede English box for the spot. Native violets/native geraniums (geranium solanderi) will both cascade over the side of any retaining wall, and will prettily flower as well given enough sun. You could plant a white hardenbergia each side of the steps (or even matching specimen eucalyptus ficilfolias!) and consider extending a simple pergola over an entertainment area that looks out over your masterpiece. Trust this inspires a little, Sandman. Keep in mind that the most interesting gardens have three layers: the canopy, the understory and the ground level shrubs, grasses, and ground covers; with the right inquiries to nurseries as to ‘microclimates’ and growth habits you will create a thing of joy – as much in the making as in completion. So far as I know the only other necessary qualification for creating a successful native garden is being a skillful pruner. Natives love to be pruned and shaped, and as long as you ‘prune to the node’, you will prevent die-back and disease, your foliage and flowering will be dense and glorious, and your garden will be the envy of the neighbourhood.

Honestly I would leave it & just put a big decorative pot in the middle. You won't make the buyers happy either way! I have a nice neat reticulated rectangle lawn piece at the front of my house & buyers keep on saying it's too much maintenance. We bought it because it actually had lawn lol. You can't win! I would put a large pot in the middle with like a Sago Palm or one of those large shallow pots in the middle.

@Emma I, What you're suggesting is a pretty bold move and irrespective of whether you are permitted to do it in the end by your respective shire and other authorities, I can't stree enough that for all the money you are thinking of spending on this project and the lengths to which you are intending to go with removing windows, dig a huge hole for the pool etc... that you use some of your finances to employ an architect as suggested by EmileECLC to make sure that this massive transformation becomes everything you dream it will be!! You must be absolutely sure of regulations surrounding pools like mentioned by mazgardiner about not being able to directly enter a pool from the house for example. Hubby and I are building our own home and we decided to have an indoor pool. We were originally having a sliding door leading outside of the pool, only to find that we were not permitted to have this access from the pool outside and I expect it was the sliding door, as with mazgardiner that was the issue, as it would be far more difficult to make it a self closing and lockable door. Fortunately we had already decided to change the slider to an awning window instead and just as well. The access into the pool from inside the home is a hinged door with a self closing mechanism and has the handle positioned at 1.5m from the floor. Furthermore, we were told by the window manufacturers, that any glass near a pool area had to be safety glass by law, so your stacker doors or any other windows that form part of the new pool area, will need to be upgraded and be much more expensive just so you know, about double the cost of a standard window. Another safety feature with our awning windows was that the wind out chain could only open to a maximum of 100mm, again law, just like the bars in a safety fence. Our building inspector tried to tell us they would not be allowed and that we would have to have external bars fitted and have the windows permanently screwed shut but further contact with our state building commission deemed the 100mm gap to be safe and adequate. Don't just accept something that seems wrong, if need be, take it higher as we did and succeeded, so again another reason to have a professional helping you through the maze of regulations.

You've made a great start. I'd think about spray painting your security screens white and having all of your pots in one colour so that you've got a unified colour pallet (it helps bring a space together) then having climbers along your timber fence as they don't take up a huge amount of room in the ground/pot. I'd then bring in colour with plants and add colourful cushions on your seating. Remember too that green can be treated as a neutral colour, but with your white, gray and brown colours that are in the space already, keeping plants to pure green can be stunning. You could also think about a vertical garden on the fence (keep in mind you will want to have an automated watering system for them - that can go on a couple of times a day in hot weather to be as successful as possible). https://www.rivasdesign.com.au/ have great outdoor mirrors that might help you to expand the space. Whatever way you go, think about layered planting - tall to the back, mid and low height plants at the front. This will help you make the space feel a bit bigger.