The lights! Not to my taste... Then the pale timber cabinetry, this is a great alternative to boring laminex! & it looks good with the brushed stainless. I wonder if it would show fingerprints... my greatest bugbear in the kitchen

Builders bog from Bunnings or plastibond (more expensive same product) can be sanded and drilled. See below a fill ready for sanding I just did after moving the light switch off the architrave. After sanding I will need to skim over again to get perfect before undercoat and enamel.

Hi Love the setting! From what you are describing, it sounds like you have a ventilation issue. A deck lower than 400mm off the ground needs to have ventilation just like the house. This typically means the sides are open (doesn't happen) and the spacing is around 5-6mm between boards. If you don't have this, the water that gets in cannot evaporate and will keep the ground and the underside of the deck moist, even with your drainage as it can pool in sections. This in turn means your deck is always wet. Once that happens, it is only a matter of time before fungus growth/soft rot etc occurs. We always excavate a low to the ground deck to ensure we have 400mm of clearance to the underside of the bearers. Another way is to ensure there is a moisture impermeable membrane across the ground (plastic) covered with gravel and graded down with vents placed all around. Cheers

Millboard has the durable flexible surface meaning that is absorbs impact rather than marking the surface. Dogs/chairs seem to have no issue marking. It is the most expensive because it is not a wood/plastic composite, it is a Polyurethane blend and has no timber. The Millboard does not let off any odour and is very similar in heat on the surface as a timber deck however it does cool down quicker. See below Millboard Smoked Oak used at London Zoo in Lion cage.