Your mockup scheme is similar to our master bathroom we just completed - photo below. I know you mentioned storage being a concern - our mirrored cabinet has offered an amazing amount of storage in a very small space and also helps bounce light around. I was worried about black taps etc too so we kept chrome fixtures but added in a matte black candle and black potted orchid to create a similar effect which we can change out later on. Our floor tiles are dark but because they are semi-polished they actually bounce around a lot of light and don't make the room feel dark if that is a concern. We also have a huge fiddle leaf fig in the corner (not pictured) which adds a really nice feel to the space - a plant like that could help bring in the outside greenery in your bathroom. Instead of the storage tower you have to the left of the vanity could you do say some floating wood shelving, possibly with baskets added for more hidden storage? You could also bring in the 60s theme with what you displayed on there eg. photos as you mentioned? In regards to the window - a previous house we lived in had a window at about shoulder height in the shower - as well as letting in heaps of light it was amazing for storing toiletries etc!

I love that you're looking to invest in restoring it. I initially would have wondered whether there's still risk of it being bought by developers when you put it on the market again as they may retain the existing home to appease the heritage overlay but build others on the large block, especially if the area if growing in demand. In that case I would recommend keeping it simple, retaining cladding, just doing cosmetic changes plus fresh but inexpensive kitchen & bathroom. However, after reading your follow-up post, it sounds like you're actually going to be doing a lot with it and the integrity & heritage of the home is important to you, so I would do it well to attract a premium buyer, pricing it out of developers' budgets. In that case, avoid aluminium windows - even the more traditional style ones don't look quite right. And windows make such a statement visually so I think it would be ideal to invest in original style ones. My mum just did a renovation on a 1920s Tudor home and the windows that had to be replaced she ended up getting cheaper custom made by a local joinery than by the big Stegbars etc, but she did shop around. Alternatively there are building materials vendors/recyclers that could have good original windows, or even demolition homes listed on gumtree can come up with some great finds providing you're happy to remove yourself. And you need quite a few, I wouldn't worry about not having them identical from room to room which may be an issue finding so many matching, provided all your trims are painted say in a fresh white, they should tie in nicely together. And again, I was originally going to suggest keeping the cladding if you're doing a simple renovate to sell, however seeing all the work you're doing to the rest of the house, I'd be tempted to remove it and uncover the weather boards beneath. A once beautiful double-fronted Victorian house near me (unlike yours it was a complete dump - holes in the floor, had been derelict...) with vinyl cladding was sold last year and the new owners have removed the cladding and there was beautiful and very well preserved brick-pattern weatherboard underneath (I can't remember the name of it, it may not be common in your region). So you could have well preserved weather boards underneath. And if not, if you're both handy (and have trade friends) it is fairly straightforward and relatively inexpensive to replace them. And with your extension you'd want the weatherboards to all tie in too. It may also be easier and cheaper with wiring and insulation/sisalation too? And lastly, just make sure there's lots of light coming into that central lounge room from the adjacent rooms. Those features are amazing! Good luck! I'd love to see the progress photos!

Thanks for all the detailed comments! A few clarifications from me.. We have done the BASIX and so, really, the window size, shape, location is determined. That wasn't clear of me, sorry, I guess I meant we can change the dimensions (within reason) to suit if a "standard size" is cheaper than the size that we have currently, which was rather arbitrary. But this way of thinking might be totally irrelevant! All the windows/doors penetrations are blocked out when they pour the concrete panels, so while we could infill or something if the penetration is too big, we are really trying to get it right now so there are no breaks in the concrete. I think we also did the BASIX with double glazing and Al frames originally (will look it up) but as we are off grid that kind of blew everything else out of the water. We have done all the shadow diagrams and spent a lot of time with placement and eaves. I think that part is OK. I am pretty set on double glazing and thermally broken frames (where aluminium). Thanks Paul for your comment of 10-15%. Our preliminary quote from out builder is certainly not that high (more like 5%) and I was having trouble seeing how we could get everything for that price. I am sure it is possible, and while we are very conscious not to over-capitalise, I don't think the most basic product is a good idea. oklouise, I share your concerns about bifolds! I don't really like them but my partner really wants them and I'm happy to give on that one. I have one quote from CedarWest which seems reasonable, but then it's the same again for an integrated screen!! Will consider other ways of doing that. So! More details: See attached the overall floor plan (floor plan attached twice, sorry!) and views. Great 270deg views (all but west as sort of dug into a hill to avoid the wind). There are 2 pods connected by an open walkway. Ignore the round window - point of contention and may change. The main pod has two large east-facing windows. A thought was gas-lift windows with the large bottom sill to serve as extra seating when open. In the E view, the verandah will not have that many posts so the view is not actually obstructed. Any ideas are greatly appreciated! I think I am just struggling with all the choice, and need to start pining down some constrains that I can work within! Thank you!!

Ive discovered CS Cavity sliders... do a soundproof cavity unit - but only for a 90mm stud wall. Mine is 70mm. But I have since found Acoustica (annandale) and bought soundproofing stuff that I will fit between the noggins myself. There is also acoustic gyprock and loads of other amazing products! Ive had to go for a normal cavity slider door (CS cavity sliders) but adding my own hardware as I wanted a Soft close (can only get that on the 90mm stud cavity units). Bought BRIO hardware. Hoping it will all work well. And yes - a solid core door!