Wood and white is timeless. If you don't want to replace the cabinets, just replace the doors. Having said that it looks like the kitchen was originally custom made and replacing the doors would cost a few thousand. Perhaps start by choosing your floor colour and type. Floating floors are incredibly durable and come in fabulous finishes.please avoid shiny faux wood tho, this can really cheapen the look. If you have to keep the tile floor at least regroup it to match in with the style and cover most of it with an island. I rebuilt our kitchen using IKEA flat pack, the quotes ranged from $35k to $30 k. I spent $4,200.00 inc the oven and I now have the option to replace the doors and draw fronts anytime I like. They also use Blum steel draws with soft closing options which are the best quality any kitchen maker can offer, only at a much cheaper price. This room is desperate for an island bench with either seating or outward facing shelves or cupboards. To answer your question you need to decide on what style the rest of the house is or will be first. Is it contemporary ? Traditional etc? Choose your base colours, materials etc there first, then look at your kitchen. This can make the process easier. If there are small children in the home durable doors that are easy to clean is the first thing to consider. IKEA and other companies make a vinyl wrap door in gloss that's easy to clean and takes a lot of "man wear". This again will limit your colour choices. Personally I love charcoal for the lower doors and draw fronts with frosted glass or white for the upper doors, timber floating shelves. Counter tops in faux concrete stone for a contemporary look or white faux stone with a fleck have become the new classic choices. Choose a classic tile or material for your splash back and don't rush this, it can be done at anytime. Take the splash back to the ceiling and loose some of the overheads along the back wall to open the room up. Replace with some floating timber shelves all finished in 2 X pak or resin epoxy, never use just polyurethane in wet areas. Overall first think about your textures that you love and then let that help you choose your colour palette, no more than 3 X colours for your kitchen. If you go with timber finishes, always match your wood colours in the shelves, counter tops and floors. Have fun and remember this is your kitchen, you have to live with it so follow your gut when choosing colours and finishes. I like to ask myself when choosing a material, "will I still like this in 10years time?" If my immediate answer is yes I go with it and use it as a starting point.

Hi , I did a major repaint of my kitchen when I moved in last year (this is the second time I've done this in a home). From salmon pink doors and tiles with plastic pink handles, it has transformed into quite a lovely kitchen with crisp white benchtops and doors, retro aqua blue splashback tiles and chrome hardware. I didn't paint the floor tiles because it is not a good idea, it won't last. And I think in your case, the kitchen floor will not look as bad when you take care of the cabinetry and countertops (and appliances - don't forget the sink, this made a huge difference to my kitchen which had a horrible stained "white" fibreglass sink and plain tap). The only regret I have is that I was convinced instore by a staff member to use water-based enamel on the countertops and this was not a good idea as it marks and stains at a feather's touch and I am always scrubbing it with magic erasers to bring it back to white. Just use oil-based enamel, preferably gloss, and it will clean up beautifully. It will just yellow in about 5 years' time, which isn't an issue if you're not using crisp white like me. Step 1: remove all handles etc. and sand back the melamine/formica surfaces and vacuum up all dust. Wipe down all surfaces with methylated spirits to remove any other dirt and - especially - oils. Step 2: Undercoat all surfaces with White Knight Grip Lock Primer (keep this stuff on hand, it is magic and can be used for a million things). Give it two coats preferably. Step 3: Paint doors and cabinetry with a good quality high gloss acryclic. You can use oil-based enamel too, but it's easier to work with acrylic. It doesn't really scratch unless the cat tries to jump up above the cabinets and claw its way back down when it misses - in other words, don't run knives or screwdrivers down the doors and they'll be good. If it scratches, get a small artists brush and touch up with your leftover paint in the tins. It takes two seconds and is as easy as to do. Step 4: paint the countertops with an oil-based enamel. Clean up with turps. Do two coats and use a good quality brush. Give it a good few days to dry, a week is good if you have the time as it hardens in this time and becomes very strong - so put your camping gear and laundry sink to good use during this time! Step 5: put on new handles and hardware, install new sink and appliances and enjoy the makeover. For the tile splashback, follow the same steps, making sure you give them a good sand. You can use gloss acrylic here too. It will scratch if you knock it with a sharp object, but again, keep the touch up paints and a small artists brush handy. In your case, because the splashback doesn't go all the way up, I'd also consider chiselling the tiles out out and using a panelled splashback from somewhere like Ikea or Bunnings or a store that orders Laminex panels. They can be pretty cheap, and although not perfectly beautiful are a lot more attractive than those tiles. If you can save the tiles (the tile glue is probably old and brittle) and sell them, someone will love them on ebay! And even re-tiling with some cheap/chuck out tiles isn't difficult or expensive in that space if you are at all handy. Splashbacks in burnt orange or red would blend with the cream and floors. Other alternatives for the countertop (particularly if you don't want to patch up the gaps from the older, larger stovetops and sink) is to put in an Ikea or Bunnings (or similar) cheaper benchtop. I have also tiled a benchtop before and this worked really well with the added benefit of being able to put hot pots straight onto the benchtop. Don't use low end wall tiles. Use a stronger tile so they don't crack. Again, with your oh so brown floors, if you stick to lighter colours for the cabinetry (eg. antique white or cream) and a more sandstone-ish colour for the benchtops (or match the cabinet colour to the benchtop so you don't have to paint it and set off with the coloured splashback), the floors won't look as bad. Also, you can put a floor runner along the length of the kitchen hallway (in front of the oven/fridge area) if everyone in the house is generally steady on their feet and don't tend to trip over everything and this will break up the brown beautifully and you will barely notice the tiles. All in all, it cost me about $200 for the paint and equipment plus handles, sink and big shower tap, but it has meant that I am delaying my kitchen reno for a number of years, as I really like the kitchen now and everyone comments on how great it looks. None of this is hard to do. As a female, I have no problems doing all this myself as long as I have the time from work. But my father was a painter for 40 years, so that's why I can get the scoop on the best paints etc. to use on these projects. Good luck! PS: Don't let anyone tell you to whack some fancy paint on the doors and it will be done in a jiffy - it will peel off. Sand and grip lock prime - this is essential if you want it to look good longer than a couple of months.

ksangus there is a big difference in the two colours. We assume your black is streaking, fingerprinting and looking patchy... .This happen with all quartz no matter the brand. Caesarstone jet black, night sky and especailly vanilla noir do exactly the same. In fact Vanilla Noir is nortorious for chemically etching from anything caustic especially glass cleaner etc Use the correct cleaning products and you will love it as much as your white colored quartz Stone & Quartz Care, Cleaning Essentials We also suggest you view our cleaning videos to make life easier to care for them

Ceasarstone recommend that you do not use their products as a splashback behind a gas stovetop unless you have a 200mm gap between the edge of the stovetop and the splashback due to the heat. If you change to an electric or induction cooktop then this distance can be reduced to only 50mm. If you are using a stone-look benchtop, such as the ones that you have mentioned, I would NOT go for a stone look printed on glass for the splashback as the reflectivity is higher with the glass and it will look fake. I would suggest tiles or a glass splashback that is a consistant colour, possibly matched to the veining of the grey in your benchtop which will complement your benchtop (which is the feature of your kitchen), and not distract from it. Matt black tapware and sinks are very on-trend, and when the fashion passes in about 18 months they will start to look dated. Classic chrome and stainless steel is timeless, so your choice really depends on how long until you put your house on the market... Best of luck with your kitchen, Dr Retro of Dr Retro House Calls http://www.caesarstone.com.au/Portals/0/Documents/2017-Kitchen-Splashback-Guide_Web.pdf