Wuff, you wrote my bedroom memories of my room at our farm. Lipstick pink carpet and psychedelic curtains and bedspreads. I still think it was the coolest room I ever had! I am currently using 60's and 70's colours and patterns to decorate my fabulous 1965 built home, with a 1970 sunroom extension. Psychedelic black and white vinyl in the bathroom. The rest is white and beige lamipanel in the wet areas. I have an orange and cream geometric patterned quilt cover and pillow slips I love in my bedroom and found psychedelic lime, purple and hot pink , with white splotches linen for my guest room. I have a lime green glass splashback in my kitchen, with terazzo look minoleum floors and blackwood cabinetry, with butcher block benchtops. I kept to white enamel appliances for 60's authenticity, but did use a stainless steel cooktop. I also have 1960's canisters, two sets one ranges from tangerine, to pale lime, beige, deep aqua and salmon, the others have bight fruits, with black lids. My jug is electric blue, with a matching toaster! I have my original 1970's microwave and food processor, as well as a hand me down 1960's Sunbeam Mixmaster, with all its attachments! My laundry has a mix of cream and beige floral and lime green and more blackwood cabinetry and the benchtop matches that in the kitchen. My sunroom is resplendant with its spotted pine feature wall and lime green and olive cane furniture, with masses of much loved houseplants, including a hoya that occupies one wall, that is as old as I am. Both of us turn 60 next year! The whole house is painted in airey cream, an off white, that just takes the chill out of white white! My lounge is a collection of antique vases, fine bone china, silverware and blond wood lounge and dining furniture, all that were proudly displayed by my parents in the 1960s and 70's when antiques were all the rage! There is not a single tile in my house, by choice, to avoid mould and heavy duty cleaning! I hate cleaning tiles as much as I hate the colour grey! My place is filled with colour! Luckily the beige shot silk curtains that are the bedrooms and lounge are so neutral they go with all the ecclectic items and 60's era styling I so love. Their quality means they should see out at least a century of wear!

I'm going to suggest these grey Montage tiles. I think the Como tiles are nice too. Dark grey will add drama and balance out the dark sink. The mixed tones will tie in the variations of grey and silver in the bench tops, appliances and glass door frames. The stone/slate look will add a natural element to complement the wooden floor and balance out the laminate. If you do go for colour, I like Bernadette's suggestion of complementing the glass colour. A tile that looks like pale jade might be nice.

Taubmans chilly water (more green) or misty rain (more blue). i'm sure there was a design dilemma post from a while back that gave the Aussie paint answer to this question. Hopefully someone who knows will see this and link it.

Hi Rach163 So the splashback is along the wall behind the stove? And is full height to the ceiling? No overhead cabinets there? Certainly for an all-white kitchen, and a very small wood-element on the table, I'd suggest a feature colour splashback. There's a few ways you could make it pop - a colour such as a rich red, or a striking (but not bright) green, or even a blue would work well. We used colour-backed glass for our splashback in our all-white (but dark benchtop) kitchen, which is low maintenance and looks very "rich". It's a red (burgundy?) feature "wall" below overhead cabinets on two sides of our mostly L-shaped kitchen, and we also put it under the island bench/table, to tie the two together. The other idea that struck me is that you have a view to the outside (albeit a covered courtyard dining area now?). That made me think of a mirror to reflect the view, or at least the light - so something like a polished stainless steel. Perhaps in sections or strips with brushed steel, to reduce maintenance :-) For the lighting, we used an led strip under our overhead cabinets, either side of the range-hood, and around the corner to where our sink is. You could do something similar with a narrow aluminium channel either at the ceiling (probably too high) or at range-hood level with an led strip (a waterproof one!) inside it. It's nearly invisible when not on, just a crisp brushed/polished metal line, but gives a really bright uniform light across the whole bench area, and no shading issues with the main room lights behind you. If you wanted real wow, get a multi-colour led strip that can be colour changed (and be dimmed) to suit your needs and moods. And if you wanted to freak people out, you can get a multi-colour programmable led strip that can also do things like active lightwaves, pulsing and respond to music and a bunch of other things :-) All of the strips are dirt cheap, unless you buy them through most Australian lighting stores :-/ We also put a dimmer led strip underneath our island benchtop, to pick up the splashback/underbench colour, and as a nice 'night-light' of an evening. Works really nicely. I've seen some people do it at the kickboard level (i.e. 140mm above the floor), to make it look like everything is floating, but I've found that only works for some kitchens. One of the benefits of controllable coloured led lighting can be that the splashback can also be white or silver, and it's the lighting that determines the perceived colour. Leds are quite directional though, great for benches but less for wider room lighting, unless you have them in a diffuser. We use led lightbulbs in four high ceiling fixtures, and one long-drop over-dining-bench light, since they are lovely and bright and warm (if chosen that way), and as the ambient light source. You can also get colour/controllable led lightbulbs but $$$. You want to think about where you want feature lighting (up or down), work lighting and ambient lighting. Think about where you will stand to work, and which lights you will be shading, which will be shining in your face, and which will actually help. We pushed around our lighting points on the design, and even over-catered on the number of fixtures, just in case we missed something. You can always disconnect a light and cover it trivially, but putting one in later or shifting one is a bit messy. Anyway, my two bits. :-) Cheers, Markus