Thanks for your comments so far. Adding to the posts is something another friend has also recommended so seems to be the general consensus and we'll most likely go with that. We are in a tropical area Brandi and I'd love some colour perhaps on the deck walls though unsure what colour and whether we'd need to extend that same colour out to the extension wall also (the white wall in photo) or leave that in Dune? Would that look a bit strange? also if we don't look at adding battens to the ceiling how would it look painted in Surfmist? I'm not to keen on a white ceiling as it can be quite bright out there during the day already.

Well I know you want to be true to the house & reuse what you can but I would probably go with a more modern style like the stainless wire and timber top rail rather than dowels or timber for the infill. Be mindful of building code for the infill as horizontal is climbable and has to be very close together. There is so much upkeep in timber & if you go with the vertical metal rod look with the timber top plate maybe...? I am not an expert on any era or style though I know you will have a preference in mind & I would go with that. Look at the big picture of how your house will look with a change of paint (are you painting the house?) & for me it was about making the 25 year old house more contemporary. We love it!

Tribble - I think we're seeing this from two different perspectives. I want a house that isn't going to go up in flames while I'm inside it. I'm prepared to accept that the house might go up in flames, but if it gives me good time to get away, that's okay with me. Random embers are not going to set a fire-resistant wood deck on fire; it will take a lot more than that. And by the time the fire is that powerful, I would be long out of there. It was the "stay and fight" mantra, not fire resistant decks, that killed people in those bush fires back in 2009. By the way, the fire requirements where we were (NSW) required roof sprinklers. Turn on the sprinklers, and the deck and everything around it, the sides of the house, etc, were all going to be hosed down, and nobody had to be there to do it. Just turn on the pump and get the heck out of there. You might want to look into those, because for me, the knowledge that we had those sprinklers was a big security feature. We also had fire resistant screens all along the side of the house exposed to potential fire, so, again, it would have been difficult for embers to get in or under the house. And yes, we had requirements that the subfloor be protected by non-combustible walls. They required concrete blocks to protect the subfloor area. A massive bushfire would have taken out the house, maybe, but there was enough there to protect us long enough for us to get out. And that's what matters in the end. I don't believe you can totally fire-proof anything except a totally concrete and steel structure, with nothing but concrete and steel inside it. 9/11 showed that a concrete and steel building will still burn because of the combustibles inside it. So, it's a matter of risk assessment based on the best advice you can get, and that often comes from the guys in the RFA. The OP should find out what the actual regulations are, and then talk to the guys that actually deal with the fires, and base here decisions on that.

Hi Chris Just following up your request for further info between double glazing and/ or filming single glazing Etc Your more than welcome to call me direct here in Tassy for a more detailed info. that’s not possible via this comments section . But just to highlight a few things for all interested readers . Firstly , it’s important to understand the “ Technical” differences between both single & double glazing ( particularly the different types of additives/ manufacturing processes etc that’s goes into making glass that can make a difference to how they perform technically and the ability to do what you want it to do and then theirs the choice of aftermarket window films . Whether the choice of an aftermarket window film application is considered to either single or double glazing to solve one or more problems, one must understand the pros and cons as to the window film manufacturers guide lines and their recommendations as to what type of film should be used or avoided considering the different window components and the different types of glass that goes into making the final window product . Secondly ; and equally important ; one must understand the differences between radiant heat and convection heat . Unless the glass is specially treated at the glass manufacturers or has an added solar film coating applied ( such as suitable window film ) when compared to clear glass and whether as a single glazed or a double glazed unit ; will NOT stop all the direct RADIANT heat through the glazing . Double glazing , or even triple glazing , works on the same principle like a thermos flask ; to reduce / slow down the transfer of CONVECTION currents ( hot or cold air temperatures ) from one side to the other . Radiant heat and convection heat are two different things and requires different ways to solve the problems . Double glazing is designed to reduce “convection” air temperature from moving from one side to the other , of the window . Other additional manufacturing processes can improve both insulation and heat reduction abilities . You mentioned a ceramic film and the infra red ( heat component ) reduction. I was wondering why a ceramic film was mentioned compared to say either a semi or fully reflective film choice !!!! Don’t get confused with all the advertising thats on offer via sales reps pushing their product as being better than other film options unless you fully understand both the advantages and disadvantages. One must compare apples with apples when comparing any technical data as many companies don’t all stick to a common standard tech specs making it difficult for customers to compare and often confused . The two main considerations when choosing a film ; particularly when double glazing is installed ; is the :- total solar energy reduction ( SER) and secondly the amount of absorption of heat ( SEA ) into the glazing . These are the two main factors I look at when heat transmission is a problem for a customer . The SER is the amount of the overall reflected away from the glazing and the SEA is the amount that’s is absorbed into glazing ( glass ) as this will effect how much increase in the overall temperature of the glass Particularly the panel which is tinted in a double glazing application which is normally the room side . The main problem if the glass temperature increases , it will increase the chance of glass breaking due to thermal stress .( gets too hot it will eventually break ) . One also has to take into account the quality of the glass , particularly most being made in Asia now .where quality may be an issue compared to Australian made glass .!!! Basically You need high SER with the lower SEA as an ideal choice . From my experience with over 40 years in the window tinting industry here in Tasmania that the fully reflective film I often use ; particularly on double glazing ; is a number one choice ; then secondly the less reflective MEP films neutral based film either in the suggested medium grade as generally the two films the manufacturers suggest in their guide lines As single glazing goes , between the full reflective or secondly the darker neutral ( a cross between the medium neutral and full reflective films ) I’d be interested in see the data on the ceramic film choice for me to compare to out of interest . The three films I’ve mention are by no means the only choices but many other factors comes into play that need to be taken into consideration . Much more on the subject but hope this may offer some interest to discuss further . Protek window tinting & blinds (Tas)