Butcher's Blocks: How to Keep These Handy Boards Looking a Cut Above
A little elbow grease can go a long way towards keeping butcher's blocks both hygienic and handsome in your kitchen
A good butcher’s block is an attractive fixture in any kitchen and acquires even more character over time. As with any meaningful relationship, however, they demand care and respect. Wood is durable but merciful to knives and can be refinished countless times. Regular maintenance of your butcher’s block means it can become an heirloom piece passed down generations.
Here are some tips to help keep your butcher’s blocks in clean and attractive shape.
Here are some tips to help keep your butcher’s blocks in clean and attractive shape.
Food-friendly. Unlike standard wood finishes for furniture and cabinetry, wood designed to come into direct contact with food is finished with oils free of harsh substances that could be harmful if ingested. These food-safe finishes are generally less durable. Combine the finishes with frequent exposure to moisture and utensil abuse and you end up with a dry grainy board that absorbs water like a camel with a straw.
Cleanliness. The most important thing you can do for your butcher’s block is keep it clean. Unlike stone or laminate benches, on which it takes days for stains to really penetrate, wood will capture blemishes quickly and display them as a constant reminder of neglect. The simplest method of preventing stains is to regularly remove all food waste and scrub the block with mild soap to free any stubborn particles, then towel it off to remove excess moisture. Just by doing this, you will significantly prolong the life and durability of your butcher’s block.
A mild scrub might keep your block aesthetically pleasing, but sanitation is of utmost concern. Since strong chemical cleaning agents can leave acrid and unhealthy residue on prep surfaces, use them only as a last resort. Instead, keep a spray bottle of undiluted vinegar handy. Studies have shown that the acetic acid in white vinegar serves as a powerful disinfectant, ridding butcher blocks of bacteria including E. coli and salmonella.
Using a fine-edged steel scraper or spatula can also be helpful to the cleanliness of your board. Simply draw a scraper along the block not only to remove stubborn debris, but to remove up to 75 per cent more moisture than towel drying.
A mild scrub might keep your block aesthetically pleasing, but sanitation is of utmost concern. Since strong chemical cleaning agents can leave acrid and unhealthy residue on prep surfaces, use them only as a last resort. Instead, keep a spray bottle of undiluted vinegar handy. Studies have shown that the acetic acid in white vinegar serves as a powerful disinfectant, ridding butcher blocks of bacteria including E. coli and salmonella.
Using a fine-edged steel scraper or spatula can also be helpful to the cleanliness of your board. Simply draw a scraper along the block not only to remove stubborn debris, but to remove up to 75 per cent more moisture than towel drying.
Stain removal. Have you let that puddle of sauce sit on the butcher’s block for too long? So have the rest of us. Even the tidiest kitchen keeper stumbles once in a while, and if you’re a proud butcher’s block owner, you will inevitably be faced with stubborn stains. There are several ways to treat them, and everyone has an opinion, but here are some proven techniques. With the exception of lemon, it’s a good idea to reapply a finish after all of these methods, as they have a tendency to dry out the wood.
- Lemon: The most organic approach is table salt and lemon. Sprinkle the salt over the stain. Slice the lemon in half and, using the cut end, thoroughly rub the salt into the stain. Let this mixture set overnight or at least all day and then clean it off with a damp sponge. This technique is also useful for combating odours such as garlic and onion that take up residence in your cutting board.
- Baking soda: Cover the stain with baking soda and work it into the board using some elbow grease. Let the baking soda stand for a few minutes before cleaning it off. The goal of this method is to essentially draw the stain out with the baking soda.
- Bleach: As a last resort (as bleach may discolour the wood), mix equal parts water and bleach, wet a rag or sponge with it, then wring it out so that it is slightly damp. Apply to the stain on the block. If the stain is stubborn, let it saturate overnight. After wiping the surface clean, be sure to apply vinegar to neutralise the bleach.
- Scrape: As mentioned earlier, a good scraping can do wonders for removing frustrating marks without resorting to harsher methods.
- Sanding: When all else fails, stains can usually be sanded out. Using coarse-grit sandpaper will save you some sweat getting the bulk of the stain out. Finer grits will return the block to its desired smoothness. When you sand the stain, you’ll inevitably create a depression in the area. To relieve this effect, sand the surrounding area, waning as you get farther from the stained area. This will achieve a more uniform surface. When you hit the board with the finest paper you choose, sand the entire board. Leaving some areas unsanded will cause those areas to absorb more water and potentially warp. This method absolutely requires reapplying a finishing oil.
Finishing touch. Food-safe finishes, such as mineral oil and tung oil, wear over time and require reapplication. But before you have a flashback of that old antique oak sideboard that took you a week to refinish, relax. If your butcher’s block is in good shape and needs nothing more than an oil boost, the process simply involves cleaning the surface, liberally applying the finish by hand or with a rag and wiping off the excess after a half hour or so.
During the application, make sure to give attention to the sides – especially the end grain, as this area is most susceptible to moisture. After the oil sits for 15 minutes, you’ll notice the oil has absorbed more in some spots and pooled in others. Redistribute the oil, spreading it evenly again, and let it sit for another 15 minutes. Then wipe off any excess with a clean rag. If you’ve noticed your block has absorbed the oil rather quickly, apply another coat to achieve proper coverage.
A common misconception is that vegetable or cooking oils can be used to treat butcher’s blocks. These oils will eventually spoil and turn rancid, leaving you with a sour prep surface. If you wish to use more natural oils, walnut, almond and coconut oil all have a higher resistance to turning rancid, but are still susceptible, so maintain with a careful eye if you choose this method.
BONUS TIP: One way to boost the repellency of your finish is to mix paraffin or beeswax into the oil. Heat up a chunk of paraffin in a tin can on the stove and mix it thoroughly with the oil. Because the wax will coagulate rather quickly, be ready to move quickly.
A handy way to get an even spread is to use a stiff plastic scraper. The trouble with this method is the potential for wax to build up in some spots, but that’s not a catastrophe, because it can be scraped away after setting. However, the build-up may disrupt a uniform sheen in the final outcome.
During the application, make sure to give attention to the sides – especially the end grain, as this area is most susceptible to moisture. After the oil sits for 15 minutes, you’ll notice the oil has absorbed more in some spots and pooled in others. Redistribute the oil, spreading it evenly again, and let it sit for another 15 minutes. Then wipe off any excess with a clean rag. If you’ve noticed your block has absorbed the oil rather quickly, apply another coat to achieve proper coverage.
A common misconception is that vegetable or cooking oils can be used to treat butcher’s blocks. These oils will eventually spoil and turn rancid, leaving you with a sour prep surface. If you wish to use more natural oils, walnut, almond and coconut oil all have a higher resistance to turning rancid, but are still susceptible, so maintain with a careful eye if you choose this method.
BONUS TIP: One way to boost the repellency of your finish is to mix paraffin or beeswax into the oil. Heat up a chunk of paraffin in a tin can on the stove and mix it thoroughly with the oil. Because the wax will coagulate rather quickly, be ready to move quickly.
A handy way to get an even spread is to use a stiff plastic scraper. The trouble with this method is the potential for wax to build up in some spots, but that’s not a catastrophe, because it can be scraped away after setting. However, the build-up may disrupt a uniform sheen in the final outcome.