I would recommend a higher bed whether ensemble or any style of base with top mattress or pillow top. I have had serious spinal injuries since 25 (I'm now 40) I would advise any bed reaching around 70cm in height regardless off style. There are a few things that I would advise, overall height around 70cm or a little more, most important to consider is comfort. Do not worry about aesthetics when choosing bed as your sleep is more important to your overall health. So if you can afford the more comfortable bed go for it. As for putting on sheets etc, the weight off mattresses is not really a big deal as it is your sleep comfort that is important. With pillow top mattress with a fitted sheet needing a 45cm fitted sheet are easy to find and purchase from same place bed is purchased. In Australia all bed sheet supplies are available for pillow top with 45cm drop fitted. Percale last longer and are around $100 per set and 1000 thread count. Spotlight have great sales and choices as well as Pillow Talk. I have found Adair's to be quite expensive in comparison but that is up to you to decide. I hope you have many a restful nights sleep. But do not worry about weight of mattress as you need your sleep to live healthy and it is an investment for around ten years so how it looks and weight of mattress should be last on list. Designers may disagree, but our bedrooms are normally our sanctuaries and it is rather easy to make any bed style work for you and decorate to your style.

4 poster beds were initially to kep out the cold in big rooms with high ceilings in big stone manor houses...usually surrouned by thick velvet or jacquard curtains with a canopy overhead and usually with intricately turned posts. The curtains were drawn back in the morning and fastened by amazingly designed 'holds' Not a fan of modern 'post' beds with plain 'frames and especially black painted skinny pine posts...however,,,if you really like the bed and the idea and, its not already a light colour, why not paint it a light colour and add, rather than the traditional heavy curtains, a light transparent curtain draped around the posts? Just a thought...I'd love a 4 poster in my natual VJ walled room with 10ft 6in high ceilings built in 1924 but it would need to be the feature of the room. When we lived in the tropics with lots of mozzies my Dad built me a 4 poster and Mum covered it with a mozzie net canopy and gathered curtains of mozzie net. The curtains were tucked in under the matress to keep the mozzies out...I was a tot and I loved it...but there can be many decorative versions of 4 poster curtains.....just a thought...might make you love the style again and find a way to make it fit your room.

My advice would be to get rid of the blind as you won't use it once you have the curtains - perhaps you could use it elsewhere or have it as a spare. You would probably find that without the blind you will use the access more often. I would do full height and full width drapes - an inverted pleat is attractive with heavier fabrics but if you have the light fabric on the top keep it simple. How about putting your sheer lighter drape on the side closest to the bedroom and have the blackout lining behind. This gives softer look in your room. You would probably find that without the blind you will use the access more often. If there is a lot of sun take care with the pure linen cotton and natural fibres as they will rot with light and sun. There are many synthetic linen look alternatives that are less expensive, last longer and have the same look. I feel your room could do with some texture - you could possibly have a subtle self coloured stripe in the drape - or go plain and have the interest in your bedding. If you want to go soft grey drapes I would go for a darker charcocal or midnight blue/ teal colour on your walls which would look awesome with a soft grey linen look curtain and natural bedding. You could introduce soft mustard, peachy pinks and soft apple green linens in your bed cushions.

Didn't need to be fixed end to end, they are just fixed to the same uprights as the decking on the front (leaving a gap the width of the upright in between the weatherboard and the decking face). I can take some photos if you'd like. The best tips I can give is to string line your uprights for both the straight line AND the height. Also, don't use the same blades and drills to cut the weatherboard as you do for the wood... Weatherboard needs diamond blade bits as we later found out (after ruining our saw blade and drill bits).