Once the jasmine takes off it’ll cover the fence and fill most of the garden bed. I’d stick with the lavender for the front of the bed. Plant it close to the bricks. I had a lavender in a similar spot and it was fine, not as prolific as one with full sun but still nice. Then you might have a tiny bit of room in the part of the bed with a curve - would you consider a dwarf lemon. It would be cramped but worth it. It not a standard of some sort would be good. What is in the rest of the garden?

So you've grown something with very little natural light up to a foot high. That is going to be tricky. Those tree's are full sun varieties so by growing them in shade it's very likely they have become weak and leggy searching for light. Also did you take the cuttings from above the graft of the original trees? If not, then you may actually get a different variety of tree depending upon what the grafting stock was. I would harden them off this way. Leave in existing location but remove the plastic bags. In order to do this successfully you will have to feed and baby these plants a bit. They are used to constant humidity and water. So once you remove the covers immediately feed with a 1/2 strength seaweed solution. For the first week use a handheld mister to keep the humidity up by misting them twice per day. Then the following week, once per day. Then they should be used to the ambient humidity. DO not allow their pots to dry out in this first week. After the first week of no coverings, start rotating them out into the light for a few hours each day. NOT direct sun to begin with. Choose a dappled light location under a large tree and only put them there for 2hrs per day first week. Then 4hrs per day the 2nd week. Watch them carefully they should develop a darker colouring to the leaves and should not drop leaves if they are happy. Within 4 weeks you should be getting them out into direct sun for a couple of hours per day and in a sheltered outdoor location at other times. You also have to harden them off to deep infrequent watering. In the first two weeks do the misting but also make sure you water whenever their soil is dry. You want to keep that moist. By the third week you need to water less often until you are only watering once every 2 days, and then finally once per week. Citrus do best when watering deeply and infrequently. But keep in mind the pot size will change this somewhat. Being in the ground keeps their roots cool and moist but plastic pots heat up quickly and dry out quickly. The larger the pot the more moisture it will hold. So leave them in their current pots while you habituate them to the outdoors then once they have stabilised (4 weeks or thereabouts) transplant them into larger pots to enable their roots to expand and the water schedule to ease up. For a small tree a 27cm pot is really about the smallest size you will want to consider and once transplanted into this size you will want to leave them a full year to grow in and become strong and healthy trees with good roots. My full size fruit trees are in 60cm pots. If you find the pots get too hot or too dry for the plants there's a trick you can use. Dig the pots into a hole in the ground leaving only the lip above the soil. It makes your tree removable without damage, contains their roots but also gives them the benefit of the cooling insulation of the ground.

I'd say you are sort of steering down the middle , and thats probably the wrong direction . You could demolish and build something real flash , but I'm gathering land isn't real expensive , and expensive houses aren't getting 7 figure sums ? You possibly even two houses , or 3 units . I know thats not want you want to do , but basically sell all of them , and get a bigger place on a large section , but then I assume that mightn't be super profitable in a smaller town . You'll probably hate me , but landscape , and do 'basic' updates . If you spend $10's of thousands on rendering , and more $$$ redoing ( or possibly repainting ) the roof , most people will work out what it was . Even doing a 6 figure reno like dreamers first pic is nice , but will it give you the extra value ? In a trendy state capital city it will , in a small town probably no . It would be easy to spend $200, 300k or more doing the front mods and the rear additions , and it will still be a compromise . Me , that house in a smaller town I'd do nice gardens , trim the trees , do the side ( and I'm guessing rear ) fences in charcoal , tone down the garage colour to match the house , just tidy the basics . And just for a cheap lift for maybe $2k , how about 6 or 8 vertical battens of 40 x 40mm timber , stained charcoal or even a cedar to continue the redder tones , up the veranda -- either in front if the path leads to the left , or on the side if it comes straight out . Then double down by doing say 4 more exactly the same , mounted 100mm out from the brick , between the 2 windows , but probably 'right aligned' , just to be a bit playful . The rear additions totally up to you -- if they cost $50k , or $200k , will they add that value in that town ? Or do you plan to be there 20 years , and it won't overly matter ? If you want to sell in 5 years , I'd say probably just squeeze in to what you have ( with updated gardens and front 'slats' haha ) , longer term then the cost is more whether you want it , as opposed to will it be worth when you sell .

Thanks Julie. I'm pretty sure I have knocked the grasshoppers off, just need to see what can be done for those tiny black ants that seem to be in the stems. Would you recommend any particular thing for refreshing the soil? Sorry I am a novice at this. The Xanadu plants look really nice and it was something I did see when Googling as a low maintenance plant. Would you recommend anything for being around fruitless Olive Trees? I was thinking of pulling out or atleast thinking the plants under those trees. We already have a little bit of rosemary and lavender at the front side as most websites recommend those.