Hi Chookchook. I relation to your question about reproduction Murano Glass that is flooding the market, almost 99% of them originate from China. You will also find that almost ALL Chandeliers that claim to be Murano Glass that originate from China are hand painted and baked PYREX (a glass substitute) which is then sold off as MURANO GLASS. It is ILLEGAL to call a product that does not originate from or has not been made in Venice MURANO GLASS. You can call it "MURANO STYLE" but nothing else. Unfortunately, there are thousands of Chinese knockoffs claiming to be murano glass that are simply PYREX which has been spray painted then baked. This is why when you see a product advertised as MURANO GLASSf that seems to cheap to be true - this is why. Also, they MASS PRODUCE each and every Chandelier as almost every segment is blown into a mold, not mouth blown. If you look at a true piece of mouth blown glass, you will see what we call RIPPLE LINES which is where the glass expands and grows during the blowing process, very similar to ripples on a pond when a stone hits the waters surface. Also, you may see irregular randomly placed air bubbles in the glass which is not a defect, but a sure sign that what you are buying is indeed mouth blown. You will also find that the Chinese NEVER use REAL GOLD in their Chandeliers or any other item, only genuine MURANO GLASS used 24 Kt gold leaf which is rolled into the glass in the very initial stages of production. You will however find that Chinese do you a technqiue called AVVENTURINE which is where copious amount of Copper flecks are blown into the glass. The MURANO masters also use this technique but the quaility if EXCEPTIONAL, unlike the Chinese knock-offs. ALL products that we make originate in Venice and carry one or more of the following to assure you of its authenticity 1. An acid etched or diamond point signature of either the furnace or the Maestro or both 2. An attached lablel which will be either a Vetro Artistico Murano (VAM) label of the furnace or a PROMOVETRO CONSORZIO MURANO label 3. Depending on the furnace, an embossed Glass seal with each arm of the Chandelier signed an numbered 4. A certificate of Authenticity signed by and issued by the furnace who produced the Chandelier or any other item for that matter. As you can see, purchasing from any organisation who does not have a thorough understanding of and intimate knowledge of the furnaces in Venice, the techniques used by the Maestros and the various components and producton techniquesf that have been handed down through the centuries is leaving themselves open to huge financial risk If an item is being sold that is claiming to be AUTHENTIC MURANO GLASS, then the person you are purchasing MUST be able to provide you with a written legally enforacable guarantee, that certifies that what they are claiming to be murano glass can be traced back to a furnace and its origin confirmed. The Chinese WILL NOT do this as their products are PYREX, NOT glass so BUYER BEWARE. There is only 1 glass artist operating in China that has actually been trained in the use of just some of the techniques used by the Masters in Venice. Even he is not allowed to call his products MURANO GLASS but "MURANO IN STYLE". I trust this helps you understand exactly what you are dealing with when it comes to companies or individuals offering MURANO GLASS for sale. If they cannot prove it is indeed authentic and can provide backup documentation to support this, then DO NOT buy unless you really love it purely for its asthetic value. Being the largest Murano Glass delaer in the world, your only safety net when purchasing anything claiming to be MURANO GLASS is to do so through someone like us who provides you with a 100% ironclad guarantee of what has been mentioned above. Best regards Dean

Indeed an interesting thread an I must admit that I've been going cross-eyed extracting as much information from your two images as I can. A very challenging dilemma. I can't speak for the glazing. It's not my area of expertise. I'm inclined to agree with other comments in this thread re leaning towards internal window treatments. The long raking window at top presents special challenges and as Envirotecture has indicated it would meaning being open to the consideration of framing your view somewhat. Here are some ideas which might be worth considering. 1. A fixed curtain for the upper raking window. Given the room is very much about light, a sheer, though not providing the same insulating properties as curtains or heavier drapery, would nevertheless, provide some insulating benefit from the air-gapping effect. A fixed curtain (sheer or otherwise) is likely to be one of the cheaper components in the options I'm listing. 2. It's hard to tell from the images how much more the 'conventional' rectangular space beyond the couch extends. Assuming it does not extend the entire length of the side of the house you have a number of options available to you here. Options which could Include Soft Roman Blinds fronting on sunscreen roller blinds. Pelmets would provide substantive insulating benefits, but it is difficult to see from the image whether they would suit, and whether you would have sufficient height, or 'any height' above that window in which to mount them so as to minimise the loss of window view due to the stacking up of the Roman. The sunscreen rollers are less problematic in that regard and provide some insulation while still allowing light when the Romans are not lowered. If opting at any stage for Romans, ensure they are properly lined with pre-stiffened Roman Lining which provides better insulation, but almost more importantly, will not sag over time such is the case with many Romans that are lined with much cheaper curtain lining which is not pre-stiffened and does not afford the same degree of insulation. 3. Along the main alfresco expanse where the table is located, and under the previously proposed location of the fixed curtains along the raking window, a motorised or hand traversed S-Fold or Wave curtain fronting, yet again, more thermal sunscreen roller-blinds could present an attractive modern look in keeping with the modern style of the room and house. Of course, an issue is going to be stack-back when the curtains are open, however, the double layered protection of both a Wave or S-Fold curtain and Roller Blinds will provide superior insulating benefits to tinting throughout the year (not just summer) imho. 4. Other ideas include Plantation Shutters across the raking/eve window above. I doubt very much that plantation shutters would work along the lower 'framed' area as the stack-back effect if bi-fold, or loss of view if sliding, would be too much of a sacrifice, let alone the additional consideration of the cost of such treatment used so extensively. Although, the window treatments i have suggested for possible consideration do not necessarily offer optimum insulation (eg the exclusion of pelmets or use of heavy lined drapery), I believe that you there would be some offset in terms of a positive ROI over time due to the savings you will reap on your heating/cooling bills. I'm in Melbourne which is marginally warmer, and without adequate insulating window treatments, the heat loss through the glass is substantial and the heating/cooling bills frightening. 5. That's a hell of a lot of glass to treat whether you opt for a glazing solution which will provide primary benefit during the summer or conventional internal window treatments - whether drapery or blind. Either way the solution is likely to be costly. To keep the cost down you could always consider high quality Thermal Verticals which can come in a variety of slat sizes colours and textures and provide substantive savings over the Wave or S-fold solutions with less stack-back loss. Once again ensuring you purchase high quality verticals that will hold up to the Australian sun over the long haul is important. The cheaper stuff might look good but you'll be picking slats off the floor within 5 years if you are not careful. Here is an image from one of our own projects where high quality 'chain-less' verticals were used to cover large expanses of glass throughout the house in combination with thermal roller blinds. Of course, this treatment or the use of Wave/S-fold curtains would only provide part of the overall solution you require. 6. The only solution I didn't yet mention is the use of folding arm awnings. While they would provide benefits during the summer, they would be more than likely at the expense of your expansive view (or part thereof). Quality awnings whether manually operated or motorised are also costly. The only other comment I might make is that internal blind and curtain window treatments provide you with a high degree of flexibility. Romans, for example work well in combination with many other window treatments, either along side them, or in combination with each other in the context of the same window. The same can be said for the other treatments I have mentioned. The internal window treatments suggested can also facilitate the ability to support a style transition from one room or area to the next. - An important consideration if the house is of a uniform style throughout and you are wanting to 'mix it up a bit' or transition to styles that vary yet compliment the primary style or look you may have throughout the house. I'm sorry, it is difficult offering suggestions based on your two images, even though they are of good quality and detailed. I don't envy you with this 'design dilemma' ... though it certainly gets my vote as one of the more challenging ones I have seen in recent times, and in an area/topic where I felt I could contribute.

Hi HU-648755060 A couple of questions for you. Do you have any floorplans or other details as well? A lot of people say Hampton's Style but that in itself can vary greatly between people. What you have picked out so far all sounds pretty good. I would look at a darker stain, like an espresso for the flooring. The darker automatically adds a feeling of understated luxe. I assume you are doing larger architraves, crown mouldings and skirts and these are painted white? Are you doing a grey grout on the splashback? For a more modern/industrial twist, look for a concrete finish to your kitchen benches. Remember that the concrete looks can be rather patterned so look at full slab pictures before choosing. If you go down this path I would keep all of them the same, vanities, laundry benchtops and kitchen benchtops. Otherwise you could look at a dramatic marble look such as Smartsone Blanco Molassa for the island and then a pared back white, for the other benchtops throughout the house. I hope this helps.

In my early twenties I designed kitchens for my mother and two aunts (Uncle built them and they worked), but when it came to designing my own - had to fit a constrained space and no possibility of extension - I chewed my lips for ages - like Nicole, I drew and measured ad infinitum, and used graph book walls, views etc. I did one extra thing - which I think worked - I listed all that I wanted to store, and tried to analyse how I liked working in the kitchen. Some things I had to settle for because of space (such as a smaller dishwasher) but most of it has worked. We have a corner pantry, which I (and the cat, husband a bit larger) can walk into, but have not put small appliances in there - they sit in a large drawer beneath the main working bench, which also works well. It all looks good to me Nicole and thinking carefully about needs and how things work in advance usually results in something you'll be happy with. Good luck!