Hi Louie, Generally speaking, if I'm designing a kitchen for clients, I ask them to choose the appliances first. That way, one can design the kitchen accordingly so that it's designed specifically for what they want. However, obviously, that is not always possible and one has to work with what's there. I'm not sure what your situation is. As your wall on one side is 700, I'd bring everything forward on the other side, so that it's equal. The fridge handle may protrude a little (you'll probably need some clearance at the back for air circulation) but it shouldn't be too bad. See if you can locate the powerpoint for fridge in the cabinet above the fridge, which will mean you can turn it on/off without having to move it. I'd bring the face of that upper cabinet in line with the 700 wall and oven tower. There would be a gap behind the overhead fridge cabinet for the power to come up and into. The other thing I'd say is that you may not need skirting inside fridge cavity.

Hi Steven Rawlins, Designing your own house does present some challenges, I suppose it all depends where you wish to invest your money on what kind of results you end up with. I like the way the house relates to the games room, it would remove lot of the noise from the main house. There are a few area where you might consider some revision of your proposal. You have not stated the location of north, really to make comments orientation is a very important factor and it would help in further edits. Also where you are located would also help (if you are comfortable with the idea) as this can ascertain climate conditions and if it is on Google earth it may be possible to ascertain adjoining properties influences and climate conditions. I roughly estimate that your house is about 15 meters wide, with a roof at 25 degrees you would end up with a massive high roof, the trusses would be significant size and the cost of covering such roof would be considerable. Also a roof acts as a sail, and although it helps that the roof is at an angle, it still is a large area for winds to exercise their destructive force. Special consideration would need to be placed on holding down bolts, and it you are covering with concrete tiles it would be a considerable cost. I think you might like to revise this roof design and reduce span, weight and cost. There are three doors between the "inside and the outside" front door, back door and garage it means that in winter you heat all of the Kitchen, lounge, dining and corridor, this is a lot of area to keep heated in winter (and cooled in summer) your costs for heating and cooling would be considerable. If possible I would consider adding some doors to act as airlocks to reduce heating and cooling costs. The garage which is of good size, has a door opening in the living areas (close to the main corridor). In winter when the front of the garage door is closed and you warm up the car the exhaust fumes will find their way into your kitchen/family/ and the rest of the house. These fumes are generally heavier than air and will most likely be ingested by your children and your pets, furthermore this is an accumulative process which I feels is not amenable to good health. In the master suite you have to cross the room to get from the master bathroom to the walk in robe. This would become an area of max travel as it is an activity done at least every day and sometimes "wetness" is included in the mix. It would mean that the carpet wold become warned and most likely soiled, and if you have a hard floor it would become slippery. There is also some wasted area at the entry of the bedroom which you might like to reconsider. The three toilets shown in the proposed plan all have internal opening doors, these are not very functional (illegal in Victoria unless you have panic hinges) if you have to get to someone inside in an emergency you would find access to them very difficult and might damage them as generaly people fall forward in such areas thus blocking the door opening inwards. Changing to external opening doors or sliders might help to solve this issue. The robes in bedrooms 2,3 and 4 seem to be very small, and not very well located. In bedroom s 3 and 4 you might find it helpful to locate the robes in the wall between the two rooms with some rearrangements of the doors might give you more storage space and act as a noise suppressor between the two rooms. You have a very good storage for linen in the laundry, however this can at times be effected by moisture variation especially if the dryer has heavy use. As pointed out from others above the scullery sees to be very large and it might also generate a lot of traffic considering that this is the only sink in the kitchen. Generally we use a sink for washing up, cleaning vegetable, cleaning fish, getting a glass of water and sometimes in an emergency. Really a kitchen sink should be separated from the stove/cooktop by about one working station which means 800 mm to 1000 mm. This is because in an emergency (pot catching fire) we instinctively move the pot to the sink - quickly. Maybe adding a second sink to the main kitchen might be beneficial. To help in getting a better idea on the were space is misused it is sometime good to add the furniture, and this will show your circulation corridors and were you might reduced space. I hope these comments are of some help, generally it takes me three revision for me to get the Sketch plan to a point where the client has some acceptance of the idea, and sometimes a greater number. This part of the design process is the most important part, hopefully helping the rest of the documentation. Wish you the best for the future, I would be happy to further commend on this project towards a hopefully successful resolution. Michael Manias Building Designers - mm407p@gmail.com

Hi, I have to agree with rwalton5 with regard to the use of space set aside for the boot/ bag area. While the idea of the area is great, it really needs to be located in a more appropriate area of the house. Perhaps in the entry or laundry area. I do have a suggestion for your choice of fridge. I own and operate an Agri tourism business and was suprised when setting up a commercial type kitchen at the reasonable cost of commercial fridges. These fridges are built to take the wear and tear of busy kitchens with multiple users, much the same as a large family. I was able to store large water containers with tap, large platters and large plastic tubs to house fruit and vegetables. I can remember thinking at the time how ideal this option would be for a large family. I was able to install a much larger commercial fridge at a lower price than I could buy from a regular retailer. My thoughts are that you would then be able to fit a large chest freezer in your butlers pantry. While chest freezers are not fashionable, they provide the room you require for buying / freezing bulk groceries. Good luck with your plans!

Hello vjay, the Miele instruction #3 is for the situation where there is a blind closed off bulkhead above, which is not your situation so thats ok. As for your roof space; roof spaces (like underfloor spaces and external wall cavities) are designed to ventilate themselves to remove any condensation or dampness; so to prevent any development of mould, fungi and timber rot and so the roof space you will have will vent. Convection currents that entre under your appliances will move the heat generated by your refrigerator and freezer up into your roof space, so all this is fine without putting extra vents in the front of your bulkhead. Looking at your framing, what I do suggest though, is that you make sure you put some large fine vent plates in the plasterboard opening between your fridge / freezer cabinets and the bulkhead's underside so this grill allows airflow into your roof space but seals off any access into your kitchen by insects or vermin. Hope this all helps, Regards Malcolm.