The [Safety First: Look Ahead Design Strategies[(https://www.houzz.com.au/magazine/safety-first-look-ahead-design-strategies-for-a-future-proof-bathroom-stsetivw-vs~32118909) article says: "A bath is not essentialUnless you are wedded to a good wallow in the tub and have the space, Barnes recommends increasing the shower area instead. “In actual fact, sitting under running water is more beneficial for circulation than soaking in a tub.” A shower space big enough for two, should assisted showering become necessary, is a growing trend." So I'll keep looking for a soaker bath (not renovating until the end of the year) but also start planning a luxury large shower area. I like the idea of a choice of showers, seating of some sort, and completely separating water and electricity. One of the things that annoys me about the current layout is the shower immediately in front of the door so you are inevitably walking across a wet floor to wash your hands or get an aspirin.

@wayne For hydronics talk to Gary Flood at the Enter Shop. They are in Melbourne but he has installers everywhere. http://www.enter-shop.com.au/ Alternatively Alex at AJs Plumbing http://www.ajsplumbing.com.au/ We generally do in-slab hydronics but have also done it inside a rammed earth wall (at our office so feel free to come and look) and underneath a timber floor (several times including in our office). Insulation is critical. In a slab make sure you insulate the slab edge as well as the underside. When we talk of hydronics we generally use heat pumps to create the hot water (it's free to run if powered by PV). You mentioned wetback stoves (wood powered heating). In my view timber is only a viable option in rural settings. In (sub)urban settings the particulate pollution is a serious health issue and there is a fair chance that at some stage woodstoves will not be permitted by urban Councils. You finished by talking of ducted air conditioning. Regardless of the technology used to generate the heat/coolth, ducted systems are inherently inefficient and, in my view, should be avoided at all costs. The heat pumps can be great but the principle of pushing heated air around requires pump energy (you have to move large volumes of air). Almost all residential installations have flexiduct (not rigid as in commercial offices), the ductwork (aside from a study showing 80% of them did not meet the Australian Standard insulation code) due to its flexi-nature has lots and lots of curves and bends all of which increase the need for pump energy. This is why is it not possible to get a rated systems as you can with a split system; it is totally dependant on installation quality. You also need to be mindful of condensation issues in ductwork as heated air passes through relatively cold roof spaces, again quality of ductwork can be a big factor here.

Another suggestion - sheerview blinds. http://www.bosetti.com.au/index.php/interior-products/sheerview-elegance-blind/ Available from all major blind suppliers. These blinds allow you to control the light totally from sheer to block out; block out 99% UV; available in large range of colours; gives the look of shutters with the softness of sheers all in one neat product.

Thanks for all the detailed comments! A few clarifications from me.. We have done the BASIX and so, really, the window size, shape, location is determined. That wasn't clear of me, sorry, I guess I meant we can change the dimensions (within reason) to suit if a "standard size" is cheaper than the size that we have currently, which was rather arbitrary. But this way of thinking might be totally irrelevant! All the windows/doors penetrations are blocked out when they pour the concrete panels, so while we could infill or something if the penetration is too big, we are really trying to get it right now so there are no breaks in the concrete. I think we also did the BASIX with double glazing and Al frames originally (will look it up) but as we are off grid that kind of blew everything else out of the water. We have done all the shadow diagrams and spent a lot of time with placement and eaves. I think that part is OK. I am pretty set on double glazing and thermally broken frames (where aluminium). Thanks Paul for your comment of 10-15%. Our preliminary quote from out builder is certainly not that high (more like 5%) and I was having trouble seeing how we could get everything for that price. I am sure it is possible, and while we are very conscious not to over-capitalise, I don't think the most basic product is a good idea. oklouise, I share your concerns about bifolds! I don't really like them but my partner really wants them and I'm happy to give on that one. I have one quote from CedarWest which seems reasonable, but then it's the same again for an integrated screen!! Will consider other ways of doing that. So! More details: See attached the overall floor plan (floor plan attached twice, sorry!) and views. Great 270deg views (all but west as sort of dug into a hill to avoid the wind). There are 2 pods connected by an open walkway. Ignore the round window - point of contention and may change. The main pod has two large east-facing windows. A thought was gas-lift windows with the large bottom sill to serve as extra seating when open. In the E view, the verandah will not have that many posts so the view is not actually obstructed. Any ideas are greatly appreciated! I think I am just struggling with all the choice, and need to start pining down some constrains that I can work within! Thank you!!