This explanation may help, Source: https://www.renovatorstore.com.au/blog/lighting-and-power-in-your-bathroom-the-simple-rules-to-be-safe/ REQUIREMENTS Zone 0: Inside the bath or shower. Any Lighting used here must have a minimum rating of IP67 (protected against immersion in water) Zone 1: Above the bath or shower to a height of 2.25m. A minimum rating of IP44 is required Zone 2: The area stretching to 0.6m outside the bath or shower and above the bath or shower if over 2.25m. An IP rating of at least IP44 is required Outside Zone: Anywhere outside zones 0, 1 & 2. Where water jets are not to be used for cleaning purposes, the general rules of BS7671 apply In addition to the above, if there is a likelihood of water jets being used for cleaning purpose in zones 1 and 2 a fitting rated a minimum IP65 must be used. Now that this has been explained, always make sure to purchase bathroom lighting according to these standards to make sure that your bathroom is always safe. You should also have this principle applied when you purchase other electrical devices such as heated towel rails, or a guide to where you'd put sockets in your bath for razors and other devices. This may also fix the common misconception that LED lights are not rated for bathrooms. Typical LED lights have an IP rating of IP66 which is more than the needed IP rating standard that bathrooms should have. - Not to mention you'd be saving a whole lot from energy bills in the long run.

Hi , I did a major repaint of my kitchen when I moved in last year (this is the second time I've done this in a home). From salmon pink doors and tiles with plastic pink handles, it has transformed into quite a lovely kitchen with crisp white benchtops and doors, retro aqua blue splashback tiles and chrome hardware. I didn't paint the floor tiles because it is not a good idea, it won't last. And I think in your case, the kitchen floor will not look as bad when you take care of the cabinetry and countertops (and appliances - don't forget the sink, this made a huge difference to my kitchen which had a horrible stained "white" fibreglass sink and plain tap). The only regret I have is that I was convinced instore by a staff member to use water-based enamel on the countertops and this was not a good idea as it marks and stains at a feather's touch and I am always scrubbing it with magic erasers to bring it back to white. Just use oil-based enamel, preferably gloss, and it will clean up beautifully. It will just yellow in about 5 years' time, which isn't an issue if you're not using crisp white like me. Step 1: remove all handles etc. and sand back the melamine/formica surfaces and vacuum up all dust. Wipe down all surfaces with methylated spirits to remove any other dirt and - especially - oils. Step 2: Undercoat all surfaces with White Knight Grip Lock Primer (keep this stuff on hand, it is magic and can be used for a million things). Give it two coats preferably. Step 3: Paint doors and cabinetry with a good quality high gloss acryclic. You can use oil-based enamel too, but it's easier to work with acrylic. It doesn't really scratch unless the cat tries to jump up above the cabinets and claw its way back down when it misses - in other words, don't run knives or screwdrivers down the doors and they'll be good. If it scratches, get a small artists brush and touch up with your leftover paint in the tins. It takes two seconds and is as easy as to do. Step 4: paint the countertops with an oil-based enamel. Clean up with turps. Do two coats and use a good quality brush. Give it a good few days to dry, a week is good if you have the time as it hardens in this time and becomes very strong - so put your camping gear and laundry sink to good use during this time! Step 5: put on new handles and hardware, install new sink and appliances and enjoy the makeover. For the tile splashback, follow the same steps, making sure you give them a good sand. You can use gloss acrylic here too. It will scratch if you knock it with a sharp object, but again, keep the touch up paints and a small artists brush handy. In your case, because the splashback doesn't go all the way up, I'd also consider chiselling the tiles out out and using a panelled splashback from somewhere like Ikea or Bunnings or a store that orders Laminex panels. They can be pretty cheap, and although not perfectly beautiful are a lot more attractive than those tiles. If you can save the tiles (the tile glue is probably old and brittle) and sell them, someone will love them on ebay! And even re-tiling with some cheap/chuck out tiles isn't difficult or expensive in that space if you are at all handy. Splashbacks in burnt orange or red would blend with the cream and floors. Other alternatives for the countertop (particularly if you don't want to patch up the gaps from the older, larger stovetops and sink) is to put in an Ikea or Bunnings (or similar) cheaper benchtop. I have also tiled a benchtop before and this worked really well with the added benefit of being able to put hot pots straight onto the benchtop. Don't use low end wall tiles. Use a stronger tile so they don't crack. Again, with your oh so brown floors, if you stick to lighter colours for the cabinetry (eg. antique white or cream) and a more sandstone-ish colour for the benchtops (or match the cabinet colour to the benchtop so you don't have to paint it and set off with the coloured splashback), the floors won't look as bad. Also, you can put a floor runner along the length of the kitchen hallway (in front of the oven/fridge area) if everyone in the house is generally steady on their feet and don't tend to trip over everything and this will break up the brown beautifully and you will barely notice the tiles. All in all, it cost me about $200 for the paint and equipment plus handles, sink and big shower tap, but it has meant that I am delaying my kitchen reno for a number of years, as I really like the kitchen now and everyone comments on how great it looks. None of this is hard to do. As a female, I have no problems doing all this myself as long as I have the time from work. But my father was a painter for 40 years, so that's why I can get the scoop on the best paints etc. to use on these projects. Good luck! PS: Don't let anyone tell you to whack some fancy paint on the doors and it will be done in a jiffy - it will peel off. Sand and grip lock prime - this is essential if you want it to look good longer than a couple of months.

Hi Tina, Granites are non-pourous and really easy to maintain. When they are installed you should wipe them over with a liquid sealer; something like Rainstop and this will just give it an added protection, but you should not be concerned about staining (not sure where you heard this because it really is not a problem with Granite). The sealing process can be done once a year and it really is as easy as wiping your tops over with Rainstop, which is a thin liquid consistency like Terps, leaving it to dry for around 15 minutes and then wiping this over again with a dry clean cloth; it's that simple. Hope this information helps, regards Malcolm.

Full residential underbench drawers are better for you, less noise. Not many options though. Sub Zero has 610 and 760mm https://au.subzero-wolf.com/en/sub-zero/counter-refrigerator Fisher Paykel has 900mm (855 to be exact) https://www.fisherpaykel.com/au/kitchen/fridges-freezers/built-in-refrigeration/cooldrawer-multi-temperature-drawer.RB90S64MKIW1.html Both has customizeable front panel (I am sure sub zero can, f&p pretty sure you can do it, just like their dishdrawers) Going commercial, you have more range, built like a tank, and more noisy Adande is the top range drawers, Best available for commercials, they have double sided one as well, you can push and pull from either side Turboair / Polar is another option for more drawers. Williams / Skope only has the 2door - 3door - 4door type but they look very commercial, mostly stainless or glass door only.