Hi Tina, thanks for posting, it is all looking great. Shame about the panelling, but sometimes these things happen for a reason. It is great the armoire matches the doors so well when they are all on one wall, but I don't think you need to have the bed and side tables matching, especially when they are on another wall. My issue with painting furniture, while I love it, is the maintenance. It does chip over time and becomes one more thing to paint. I don't know what the timber is in your furniture but another possible option, especially to give you the coastal vibe is to lime it. To do this successfully, you will need to sand all the existing stain off it and go back to the raw timber. The darker the original timber, the less limed look you will get so bear that in mind too. I did an old bunk bed up that had seen better days, for my grands bedroom. It was a dark red wood, but with 4 coats of stain I got the look I was after which was that driftwood/coastal look. The whole thing looks totally new again. Sorry I can't post a photo as this function no longer works for me. Have a look at the Feast Watson range of liming stains, they have some gorgeous soft colours as well, but they let the timber show through rather than having the solid painted look. It is a very easy product to use, it dries quickly - I did the 4 coats over 2 days effortlessly. The hard work is in the sanding.

True, if they want frou frou, then definitely go for something else, these sinks are more space design oriented and for the environmentally responsible, but not necessarily pretty. A woman using them may find it unattractive & maybe even uncomfortably odd. But personally, as a man, using a powder room full of scented candles and lace makes me feel the same way! Ha! I would've agreed with you a month ago about the wallpaper & only reason I suggested it was I recently used that exact one at a dinner party (where one of the owners was an interior designer! But maybe that means braver with risks?) I actually found instead of having the size make an impression, I was busy being wowed by the wallpaper, it WAS overwhelming, but in a pleasant way that made such an impression I remembered it for this post! Anyways, it's fun to hear everyones suggestions! cheers!

Hi Chris Just following up your request for further info between double glazing and/ or filming single glazing Etc Your more than welcome to call me direct here in Tassy for a more detailed info. that’s not possible via this comments section . But just to highlight a few things for all interested readers . Firstly , it’s important to understand the “ Technical” differences between both single & double glazing ( particularly the different types of additives/ manufacturing processes etc that’s goes into making glass that can make a difference to how they perform technically and the ability to do what you want it to do and then theirs the choice of aftermarket window films . Whether the choice of an aftermarket window film application is considered to either single or double glazing to solve one or more problems, one must understand the pros and cons as to the window film manufacturers guide lines and their recommendations as to what type of film should be used or avoided considering the different window components and the different types of glass that goes into making the final window product . Secondly ; and equally important ; one must understand the differences between radiant heat and convection heat . Unless the glass is specially treated at the glass manufacturers or has an added solar film coating applied ( such as suitable window film ) when compared to clear glass and whether as a single glazed or a double glazed unit ; will NOT stop all the direct RADIANT heat through the glazing . Double glazing , or even triple glazing , works on the same principle like a thermos flask ; to reduce / slow down the transfer of CONVECTION currents ( hot or cold air temperatures ) from one side to the other . Radiant heat and convection heat are two different things and requires different ways to solve the problems . Double glazing is designed to reduce “convection” air temperature from moving from one side to the other , of the window . Other additional manufacturing processes can improve both insulation and heat reduction abilities . You mentioned a ceramic film and the infra red ( heat component ) reduction. I was wondering why a ceramic film was mentioned compared to say either a semi or fully reflective film choice !!!! Don’t get confused with all the advertising thats on offer via sales reps pushing their product as being better than other film options unless you fully understand both the advantages and disadvantages. One must compare apples with apples when comparing any technical data as many companies don’t all stick to a common standard tech specs making it difficult for customers to compare and often confused . The two main considerations when choosing a film ; particularly when double glazing is installed ; is the :- total solar energy reduction ( SER) and secondly the amount of absorption of heat ( SEA ) into the glazing . These are the two main factors I look at when heat transmission is a problem for a customer . The SER is the amount of the overall reflected away from the glazing and the SEA is the amount that’s is absorbed into glazing ( glass ) as this will effect how much increase in the overall temperature of the glass Particularly the panel which is tinted in a double glazing application which is normally the room side . The main problem if the glass temperature increases , it will increase the chance of glass breaking due to thermal stress .( gets too hot it will eventually break ) . One also has to take into account the quality of the glass , particularly most being made in Asia now .where quality may be an issue compared to Australian made glass .!!! Basically You need high SER with the lower SEA as an ideal choice . From my experience with over 40 years in the window tinting industry here in Tasmania that the fully reflective film I often use ; particularly on double glazing ; is a number one choice ; then secondly the less reflective MEP films neutral based film either in the suggested medium grade as generally the two films the manufacturers suggest in their guide lines As single glazing goes , between the full reflective or secondly the darker neutral ( a cross between the medium neutral and full reflective films ) I’d be interested in see the data on the ceramic film choice for me to compare to out of interest . The three films I’ve mention are by no means the only choices but many other factors comes into play that need to be taken into consideration . Much more on the subject but hope this may offer some interest to discuss further . Protek window tinting & blinds (Tas)

Maybe paint facials white and put some white cladding in front gable so eye drawn to that not windows not a blue tinged white eg not dulux lexicon but warm white to go with cream blinds eg natural or polar white or grand piano 1/4 strength would also go nicely with woodland Grey and jasper - cb basalt also goes nice with woodland Grey maybe go 1/2 strength on walls as it’s a nice neutral black/Greywhixh would detract from purple tinge