JudyG – Happy Birthday!! Tras – I had that exact issue with where to transition colors, because my house is open concept. The kitchen & dinette are a pale teal .. but they’re open to the great room & foyer, which are peach. I paid the color expert at the paint store for a consultation, and we talked about how far towards the blue I really wanted, I could go in the kitchen/dinette .. leaving a medium green ceramic backsplash, and where to transition colors. We also talked about light & warm colors to replace the dark colors in the main bathroom & finished basement. It was worth the $125, and I didn’t have to wade thru 100 conflicting comments on Houzz! Darzy – I so agree with you, about the scope of fixes some posters recommend. If I asked how well a fabric I was considering for the couch went with other furniture already in that room, I wouldn’t appreciate people telling me to paint the walls, change the windows, replace the flooring, and change the stone on the fireplace! Another subject for us OLLDs to chat about – Consumer Reports magazine/website – are they really unbiased & even handed? Do they have a bias against high-end manufacturers or products?

Here's what we did to cover a metal fence that surrounded us. We had an ugly (but brand new) Stratco metal fence that borders the rear house, plus down two sides of the house. Everyday that I looked out onto this metal fence from the kitchen window (with the view of the neighbours over the top of this fence) it became more unappealing, the more we dreamt of a vertical garden instead, but we knew that would take time or a lot of expense, and I couldn't wait that long for that fence view to disappear from view. The solution was some wicker fence cladding, we bought it in 1.8m high by 3 metre rolls from Bunnings (big hardware chain in Australia for those OS) for $30 per roll, it came in a variety of sizes, but we needed that to cover our metal fences. You can do this with a brushwood fence, or to create a barrier from the heat of fence to your plants, you can even clad your fence in what my husband calls "blue-board", it's a thin fibreboard, cheap to buy, in almost any size, it can handle any harsh outdoors, & you can render over it in, paint over or colour the render in any colour you like - a light sand or cream colour will look nicer against any green living vertical garden you choose to put in. My husband made a wooden treated-pine frame around each metal fence panel, and screwed the wicker fence covering to it, with a washer so it held on the uneven twigs that formed the wicker cladding. My husband did such a good job of this, we had a small tornado come through our suburb, winds up to 200km/hr -4 of our closest neighbours lost significant parts of their tiled rooves, but all we lost was one of the stratco metal fence panels, but not the twig fence screwed to the frame my husband made! It helped we were nestled with neighbours in rear & front strata subdivided blocks, houses beside & behind us.. but that wicker twig fence covering & the frame did survive our tornado. Here's what we did on the ground - You can see it a little in the photo's above; as ground cover (with some stone you can get delivered or they often loan you a trailer when you buy a load or 2) we had a couple of cubic metres of ord river stone delivered (mixed sizes) brought it out the back by wheelbarrow, laid it over some weed mat on the ground, creating like a dry river bed effect beside the decked paths down the sides that connect the front and back decks. On the far wall behind the cubby and the slow growing variety of bamboo, we planted several cutting of a friends Ivy that was like a green waterfall over her boundry fence. Within a year, with mains watering (on a timer with misted sprinklers for 5mins once a day that does all our potplants and the side & rear gardens too) we had our own green waterfall, we cut it back when it's long green tendrils start growing along the gound towards the house. A fantastic effect that is very hardy, and cost us nothing! We don't have the wicker fence surround down that side of the house as we don't see the ugly metal fence at all now. In the hottest parts of our summer (up to 46-47C degrees), a few of the ivy's leaves get burnt around the edges, but it's easy just to cut these off. We planted a smaller leaf, much slower growing ivy (on the right in the photos) in the ground on the back fence beside the wicker fence surround, and put up some wire horizontal lines for the ivy to grow along. The 2 bottom photo's are taken 1 year apart so you can see how much it's grown. If you put vines in pots, you will limit (or control) their ability to cover your fence. We cut holes in the weed mat, and planted about 4 native violet ground cover plants. The effect is quite beautiful now, in the heat of summer, the native violet wilts when it's thirsty, but always comes back when it's watered and after summer. We've also put several plants in pots along the fence line to create our garden "oasis" out beside the back deck and down the side (creating garden view from each of the bedroom windows as well as from the kitchen window out the back). We cut some lattice & this blocks out the view of the rear neighbours completely, plus with shadecloth backing on the lattice, it also protects the cafe blinds that surround our back patio from sun damage in summer when they are rolled up in summer. So whatever you plant along the fence, you'll need to create a narrow garden bed in the ground for it to grow well from (we bordered our garden beds along the side fence with narrow 25mm wide limestone blocks or perhaps with railway sleepers or you can buy coated tin garden bed border), most plants or creepers will thrive if they room to spread their roots, even if the fence is hot. There is a small leafed creeper (planted in ground), that sticks to the vertical surface, It has completely covered our stone pillars out the front garden, next to our front gate that looks fantastic - Can't recall what it's called though?? It's taken about 5 years to cover the pillar, but we only planted one (wish we'd bought more now, I've looked but can't find any more of it). We put 3 mid sized chinese jasmin's down the side (behind where the first photo was taken), in narrow in-ground garden beds down the other side of the house. It took a couple of years for these to take off and spread out along the fence line (length of our house), but in the beginning of spring this year they were all in bloom and it created a very fragrant as well as visually appealling cover over and through the wicker fence. The horizontal wire helped so we could wind the jasmin along it as it grew for the best coverage. I wouldn't use those barrels as planters for any vines or creepers, just create a narrow garden bed along the fence line (& beef up the soil quality with sheep or other organic fertilizer,) and even some soil wetter or water crytsals thar will hold the water amongst the roots for up to 3 months, helping any young plants make it out of their infancy so they live and thrive. The water crystals do expand into a gel once they absorb water, so make sure they are well mixed into the soil and buried below the surface around the plants roots for their best effect. The barrels would look better painted, with as mldesign0401 suggested, those strappy leafed plants like the Strelizia's (or birds of paradise), or a tree fern in a shady spot. My hubby also put a variety of herb seedlings into one of those half barrels, put some castors on the bottom of the barrel, as a gift for his Mum, and this way she can move her herb garden about, into the sun as it moves from season to season, in & out of the rain, etc, and she loves it!! Don't forget that a good part of the enjoyment of a garden is watching it grow over time, so beware of mass planting and consider what you plant and how much water and sunlight it gets from season to season. Some of the best advice we had, was have a look at what is thriving around your neighbourhood, ask your friends or neighbours for cuttings, don't be afraid to move plants around if they don't like the first spot you put them in, or if they don't look quite right in that spot. We were also quite ruthless with the plants we bought, chopped several into halves and quarters through the potbound roots (the native violet ground cover, the water-plants, several others), before putting them in the ground, so we spent far less that way. Cutting or chopping through the roots with a knife or shovel, cleanly instead of tearing them apart seems to traumatise the plants far less from my experience. We have an Orange Trumpet vine that does very well here in Perth in WA, but as it can handle WA's heat and still thrive, it might be good idea for someone else out there in Houzz reader land.. ,,although, it does take up a lot of real estate when it's completely covered a fence, it needs room or regular haircuts once established. Looks very impressive in bloom though! We have Wisteria along our front wall, we have trained it along the front boundary fences, it's tendrils of new growth need regular haircuts, but even though it prefers horizontal trellis's or an arbour, over a few years, we have succeeded in taming it onto vertical green fencelines. In spring, when the flowers drape like grapes on a vines, it's just gorgeous, even when it's just the green living walls, it's so much nicer to have living walls and to be surrounded in vertical garden (& that's why for me the fences that usually contain us, transform the space to make us feel different about the spaces that surround or contain us). Using lighting will create a different mood & effect after dark, spot lights or those bollard lights at ground level, and if you lay the wiring (or solar if it gets enough sun) when you're making the garden beds, putting in the plants at the same time, you'll be glad you did later on once everything has started to take off. Or you buy enough fairy lights to do the length of the fence line if you have outside power close by or can hide an extension cord somwhere. I love the sharing ideas and the stories side of this site, I need some help with a structure for shading our front deck by the pool; our West Oz summer sun is scorching- I'm sure the houzz community will have some ideas & photo's that will help us...

Hi rissv100 It is rare that I would endorse living rooms on the upper floor over the lower floor. Exceptional views are one reason - however even then, especially for family homes, I would still recommend a living area of some sort on the ground level. With families of any age, but particularly with young children, the ability to have them move easily in and out of the home, be supervised from inside, but also be within easy reach should you need to get to them, and that indoor/outdoor connection physical connection ... all bode very well for a functional, flexible family home. Perhaps as has been suggested, consider a double height living space that can access natural light at high level clerestory glazing to light the lower level too. Using other devices in the home to get light from a higher level to below can be through locating the stair void near the living areas, and using an open design to help light get access. Voids are also good. Alternatively, you can consider your home seasonally ... a living / kitchen / dining area on the ground floor that helps with entertaining, and daily living with a family ... and then a upper floor family area / snug that may have a small kitchenette in it. Based on where you are, the warming north-west sun is generally most useful in winter to help you have warmer evenings in your home - which works with that idea of a family/TV/relaxing evening space. Other times of the year, you generally want to keep the heat of that sun out of your home. I have an 8, 6 and 4 year old who all sleep on a separate level to us and we generally don't have issues. I have designed lots of homes for families of different ages and there are various views on where kids' bedrooms should be. Some families like having the parents on the lower floor, and the kids on the upper floor because they think this is better security. Some don't mind kids on the lower floor as long as they can manage their access outside and security of openings, especially at night. I recommend to all my clients that your kids are big for a lot longer than they're little - and having separation between bedrooms is good for long term use of your home ... however maintaining some visual and audio connection is useful for that casual surveillance of their activities with each other and when friends are over. We renovated our homes for resale (it was how we got ourselves to our current home in the Byron Hinterland), and getting a big living/kitchen/dining area well connected to the garden was always a winner for a family home that sells quickly and sells well. Even though you may have no intention to sell in the near future, your home is generally your biggest asset, and you never know what's around the corner. So any money you invest in it should give you the biggest bang for buck, and help you improve the value of your asset. Hope that helps - best wishes with your renovation - it's an exciting (and daunting) adventure you're about to embark on! Regards Amelia, UA www.undercoverarchitect.com amelia@undercoverarchitect.com Get your free guide to keep your renovation project on budget - CLICK HERE

As your house is a lovely grey I would consider plants which harmonise with that shade. So consider a range of grey leafed plants such as olive trees (these look great at night as the leaves have a silver backing), wattles, feijoa, euphorbia, lambs ears - an interesting textured ground cover, as is snow in summer. Then a striking deciduous coloured tree or large shrub such as a maple with red leaves, smoke bush, or crepe myrtle. There is no need to build a fence unless you really want significant privacy, shrubs do provide adequate separation. As the home is tall and quite imposing I would also plant three pencil pines neat the front of the building, these will soften the edges of the building and help it relate to the garden. Most grey leaved plants are very hardy. wind may prove more of an issue than sun or soil, I recommend that you look for plants at are labeled 'suitable for seaside locations'.