This is beauty of good design. Dramatic changes can make an incredible impact. As I originally mentioned an extension was added to the back of the original kitchen and extended out past the original envelope of the building. The kitchen then was moved 180 degrees to opposite wall. There also are no bells and whistles in this kitchen and no soft close drawers, just the basics.

Hi Deanne, When you say you are doing the kitchen, does that mean you have to do the planning (design) and specifying of it also? I would have thought Storybook supplied a home with the (kitchen) plans included? If not, your builder will be able to guide you, however here are a couple of tips... 1. Choose your appliances early AND STICK WITH THEM. Often individual appliances have specific needs outside of standard eg power requirement (over 10amps), rangehood ducting direction and type, clearances to overhead cupboards, water to fridge etc. 2. Using the appliances, work out the layout (design) of the kitchen and where you want the cooking, cleaning, fridge etc. From there you need to work out power point locations for all appliances (many people forget the microwave) plus the everyday items like phone chargers, toaster, kettle etc. 3. Go to kitchen display showrooms such as Laminex. They have completed kitchens on display where you can understand the difference between a waterfall end (benchtop style), a shaker profile door (Hampton's style cabinet front) and play around with colours and finishes. 4. Put it all together in detail and you have created a specification! Re finding a builder, I agree with the above. Get a couple of names from Storybook as you don't need beginner mistakes, and go with the builder you guys are COMFORTABLE with. Price is only part of the journey. Good luck with the build.

If you are only taking part of the tool area for kitchen, then you are building more support walls, than are already there. Any reputable builder can do this job. Taking out the bricks by cutting the wall, putting a flat support beam in, if required. Re plastering walls, new ceiling, architraves, power etc. I think, per metre, yes it will be expensive, because of trades still needed for such a small change. But if that change is greatly beneficial to your family, then this is worth it.

I reckon its boring sorry , too much of a muchness . At the very least , as its now installed , I'd get maybe a 30mm and a 40mm drill bit , run a string line , do a row of 30mm holes maybe 150mm from the balustrade , then the 40mm row maybe 100mm below that . Chamfer then sand and paint . Or if you can / want to , take all the pailings off the upper piece , and get some reproduction period 'swirly' bits . C P might then call it busy , but better that than dead boring IMO . And with it all white , it will look even more plain -- you'll be rapt on days there is a shadow ! And no matter what you do , I'd also add a ( fake ) air vent on the gable -- it fits the period , looks good , and hides or replaces those vertical battens -- you can go 6 sided or round or whatever , just do something before you paint that gable