Hi, why don't you have a think about installing composite decking which will allow you to be level with the door sill without the worry of run-off into the house due to the 5mm gap between the boards. Composite doesn't required coating so the maintenance issues are significantly less, just a hose down and sweep or mop with water. You would still need to excavate approx. 250mm below the finished deck level to allow for the sub-frame but if you use treated pine framing with, either H4 stumps in concrete, or galvanised stirrups to anchor the framing into the soil. Check with your local decking pro for further advice and brand options. Generally, the USA made composites like Trex or Timbertech are better quality and the concealed fixing systems are easy to install. Your soil type may be the only issue with water, ie clay which retains water, or sand which tends to drain more quickly. Good luck

I finally managed to attach photos as requested !! What I did last year was to mix one part house paint with 30 parts water and brushed in long dragging strokes to achieved the weather drift wood look 18 months later which about 4 weeks ago, I bought a grey deck paint and watered it down 1 part paint to 3 parts water Thus is the results It covered the grain a bit more

What a great job you did. So good that you just went with white. The concrete floor tile on wall behind the vanity would have been too busy after now having seen the finished product.

Hi Chris The cheapest option is Grind & Seal, but we usually recommend Mechanically Polished Concrete for inside of a home. This is by far a better option, if you were to go for a Matte or Satin finish it is less expensive than a higher gloss finish. Mechanically Polished Concrete does not have a top coat sealer requiring drying and curing time and does not need re-applying in the future which will save time and money in the long run. Because Polished Concrete does not require drying or curing time it can be used as soon as the process is completed unlike the Grind & Seal option. All floors are slippery when wet, a non slip agent can be added to a top coat sealer which would be the Grind & Seal method which we do apply in a shower area if there is not a shower base. Polished Concrete in Matte and Satin finish does have a very good slip rating, has no grout lines as with tiled floors where dust can get trapped therefore it is a wonderful easy to clean flooring solution. Hope this helps, I have provided some details regarding the 2 main processes below There are 2 different finishing processes / methods that are commonly called Polished Concrete, they are very different so it is important that you know the difference & which process/method you want and which is being used on your concrete Polished Concrete - 12 to 17+ step process During this process the concrete is ground to the desired level of stone exposure. After grinding the concrete surface, the Polished Concrete process begins. This process has a densifier applied in multiple stages that is absorbed into the concrete which hardens and strengthens the concrete. A Polished Concrete Floor is Polished in Multiple stages in a Refining Process using diamond tooling & resin pads. A penetrating sealer is applied in the final buffing stage to complete the process The "Polished Concrete" process has "NO TOP COAT SEALER" applied therefore there is no drying or curing time required so your space can be used as soon as the process is completed Grind & Seal (a 3 to 4 step process) This is NOT Polished Concrete. Grind & Seal is often referred to as Polished Concrete, this is the cheaper substitute that gives a "Polished Concrete Look" With the Grind & Seal method the concrete is ground to the desired level of stone exposure and a TOP Coat Sealer is applied such as water based, solvent based, urethane, acrylic or epoxy requiring 5-7 days to dry & cure