Approximately 5'-6" from the floor to the bottom of the fixture........

Running with your second floor plan (and ignore the glass sliding doors in this image) but would you consider changing your 3m narrow splash to a full sized fixed window on half the side and the remaining side create as the cooking area with cupboards, oven etc.? You mentioned you have stacker doors in the direction of the lounge, but in terms of space, from these doors, it's living area no windows at a room length of around 7m, followed by 4m kitchen room length including a 3m narrow glass splash to provide natural light for the kitchen area (cupboards noted above)? From your drawings there seems to be no windows on the opposite wall, is that right? I feel you will need to bring additional natural light into the kitchen area possibly bigger than the 3m glass panels if only 0.6m tall (or similar) especially with cupboards on top. If you're not keen on swapping out the narrow splash here's another example with your second floor plan (and also ignore glass sliding doors in this image) but possibly a tall window or fixed glass panel before your kitchen bench starts - even if <1m wide. Or greater than 1m if you're OK to encroach on your 3m glass splash and make it shorter. If the island bench is not a "must" you could create similar to this image and have a L-shape bench so it encloses the kitchen a bit more. This will help create the next room of your house ie. Kitchen - and you'll gain a few more cupboards if you're really wanting additional. Then have the big fixed window adjoining the L-shape next to the seating bench. You could still have your narrow glass splash with cupboards above, possibly just shorter (only referencing the L-shape and large door in this image - imagine fixed glass full-size wall panel in lieu of door next to the seats. Ignore the remainder of the kitchen). Is this an existing dwelling or new home build? For either of your options, are you impacting your roof-line as your first floor plan suggests you're widening the kitchen by 1m? The first plan I'm guessing will cost more; light wells and extra bricks vs straight wall. As mentioned by the other posts, there's plenty of storage options. You still have a decent amount of room for cupboards including a full-sized pantry next to your fridge space. I also agree with jbantick's of balancing space indoors and out (not knowing surroundings).

There are so many variables and ways to build things. Building succesfully is very much working well in three dimensions and understanding the structure, and the waterproofing required in three dimensions. Your question suggest that you are only thinking in terms of heights and brick courses, but there are lots of other things happening that would suggest that you get a section of the house and post it with dimensions. Most building professionals work in millimetrres rather than brick coursing. So converting your dimensions to millimetres - 28 courses is 2400mm, which is the minimum height for a habitable room ceiling. Six courses of brickwork is 514mm for the window opening, however your glazed area will be less than this due to the width of the window frame. Your 3 courses of brickwork which is 257mm should be enough for most steel lintels, unless you have a really wide opening for a window? You also need to allow for flashing if the clerestorey is above another roof running into the same wall - if this is the case you may need the full 47 courses. I would be asking your designers why they need 47 courses, as it is a lot higher, and there may be problems with setback issues? Is it a flashing issue? Is it a window opening width and lintel issue. I am afraid you haven't really supplied enough information or images to explain about the clerestorey window so it is impossible to answer precisely. Best of luck, Dr Retro of Dr Retro House Calls and Dr Retro Virtual Visist

Thanks Kate and Amony, We don't have our own engineer. The builder has developed the plans, design and will engage their own engineers through the process. As working drawings haven't been developed yet (awaiting final fixtures / fittings), I'm not sure if we could reasonably engage our own engineer, but let me know if you feel otherwise? We don't have our own architect, the design is a modification of a standard house plan that the builder offers. Noting that they show a cathedral ceiling with glazed gable very close to what we have been shown on their website / marketing material, and what is in our contract. With regards "the builder's drawing is ugly", I assume you're referring to the proposed new design, and yes we certainly agree! Though if you're referring to both original and proposed, then I guess that means you're recommending we don't pay the ~$58K and revert back to a normal ceiling and forego the glazed gable. That is certainly an option we are considering. We agree with respect to "if he was unable to follow the plans, then that should have been conveyed up front", and would have likely not gone with them, hence we feel like this is false advertising / bait & switch and depending on how things we go we will probably report them to the ACCC. With regards "this builder will be a major problem as you continue with a build and will try to cut costs for himself", I can't argue with that, but for the moment we have a signed contract in play. So would your recommendation be to potentially forego the 5% deposit (assuming they quantify their reasonable costs up to this point) and walk away? This is certainly a scenario I am aware of. For "what do you do if he changes plans partway through", this is where we are seeking some external legal (due tomorrow). I feel like the builder is in breach of contract, in which case we should have a way of cancelling the contract without losing our 5%. Right now we feel like they have made a major mistake in selling us on something they feel like they can't actually build, and hopefully legal advice supports that they are in breach.