Well after a very (very very very) long time my Living Room is all but complete. There is some work to do behind the new steps and some trim to be put on the bookshelves. A light is to be put between the couches (that the electrical cable hanging down) and the wall lights are going to be removed. So just a quick rundown on what has been achieved; Two sky windows - Velux - roofing guy Sheeted under the beams - plasterer New carpet – Bunnings – carpet layer Closed off the old bar and put in a door – builder and plasterer Installed ceiling fans – Hunter, remote control, reversible – electrician Installed downlights - electrician Painted the endwalls – Solver Paint but Dulux Chine White colour - me Painted the ceiling – 2 x coats Solver Ceiling White over 2 x coats plaster board sealer - me New blinds (venetians) and curtains - from Spotlight - me Installed a gas bayonet heater (until I can afford a gas ‘wood’ fire for the fireplace – cripes they are expensive) – secondhand from Garage Sale - me Installed bookshelves – 2 x 202mm high + 2 x 106mm high Billy Bookshelf and 2 x Brimnes Cabinet - me Built and installed new steps and bench top on bookshelf – laminated Beech bench top, cut to size and routed, stained and oiled - me Sofas – Ikea Ektorp - me So some things I would have done differently. The downlights would be warm white not welding mask white. In fact I would re-think the whole light thing and possibly use lights with reflectors that were dark so that light was only reflected down. They would ‘lower’ the ceiling and make the room cosier I think. I kinda like the ceiling fans but had seen some which were awesome but really expensive. Then I saw ones very similar to the awesome ones but much cheaper but by then it was too late. I should have put bi-fold doors where the old bar was instead of a swinging door. I suspect that it will be unlikely now that I can use the room for its intended purpose. In fact with hindsight I coulda shoulda done the job myself rather than getting a builder in. It’s not as good as it should be and that has disappointed me. The bookshelves have come a up a treat – need to finish them off though with some trim. All from ‘Ikea’ except for the timber bench top. The bench top was a light bulb moment and breaks up the all-white appearance of the shelves. Also the white of the shelves and the white of the cabinet were slightly different and the bench has helped disguise that. The bench top and the steps were laminated beech panels from ‘Bunnings’ that I had cut to size. I stained them, put a router over the edge to round it off and then coated with Tung Oil. The bookshelves look bigger in real life than they do in the photos too. So now to sit and enjoy my handy work.

Hi jdublya, happy new year and sorry about the late reply! I ended up doing the safe / lazy thing... left the floor untouched and painted a feature wall deep grey, as well as having two-toned grey curtains to both the sliding doors, and a dark grey area rug. The open plan living / dining gets lots of light, so it's still bright even with all the dark greys. We've paired it with mismatched sofas in light grey and brown, and sage green throws. Overall, it's still a "warm" look and not the cool Scandi look I would have preferred, but it's cozy and the greys have really calmed down the red. It's a lot more to my taste now than the show room furniture was. Bits of the floor finish are coming off though, I think (where the kitchen island stools have been dragged over the years by the past occupant), so in time I will get the opportunity to re-do the floor and it'll no longer be red!

Hi Chris Just following up your request for further info between double glazing and/ or filming single glazing Etc Your more than welcome to call me direct here in Tassy for a more detailed info. that’s not possible via this comments section . But just to highlight a few things for all interested readers . Firstly , it’s important to understand the “ Technical” differences between both single & double glazing ( particularly the different types of additives/ manufacturing processes etc that’s goes into making glass that can make a difference to how they perform technically and the ability to do what you want it to do and then theirs the choice of aftermarket window films . Whether the choice of an aftermarket window film application is considered to either single or double glazing to solve one or more problems, one must understand the pros and cons as to the window film manufacturers guide lines and their recommendations as to what type of film should be used or avoided considering the different window components and the different types of glass that goes into making the final window product . Secondly ; and equally important ; one must understand the differences between radiant heat and convection heat . Unless the glass is specially treated at the glass manufacturers or has an added solar film coating applied ( such as suitable window film ) when compared to clear glass and whether as a single glazed or a double glazed unit ; will NOT stop all the direct RADIANT heat through the glazing . Double glazing , or even triple glazing , works on the same principle like a thermos flask ; to reduce / slow down the transfer of CONVECTION currents ( hot or cold air temperatures ) from one side to the other . Radiant heat and convection heat are two different things and requires different ways to solve the problems . Double glazing is designed to reduce “convection” air temperature from moving from one side to the other , of the window . Other additional manufacturing processes can improve both insulation and heat reduction abilities . You mentioned a ceramic film and the infra red ( heat component ) reduction. I was wondering why a ceramic film was mentioned compared to say either a semi or fully reflective film choice !!!! Don’t get confused with all the advertising thats on offer via sales reps pushing their product as being better than other film options unless you fully understand both the advantages and disadvantages. One must compare apples with apples when comparing any technical data as many companies don’t all stick to a common standard tech specs making it difficult for customers to compare and often confused . The two main considerations when choosing a film ; particularly when double glazing is installed ; is the :- total solar energy reduction ( SER) and secondly the amount of absorption of heat ( SEA ) into the glazing . These are the two main factors I look at when heat transmission is a problem for a customer . The SER is the amount of the overall reflected away from the glazing and the SEA is the amount that’s is absorbed into glazing ( glass ) as this will effect how much increase in the overall temperature of the glass Particularly the panel which is tinted in a double glazing application which is normally the room side . The main problem if the glass temperature increases , it will increase the chance of glass breaking due to thermal stress .( gets too hot it will eventually break ) . One also has to take into account the quality of the glass , particularly most being made in Asia now .where quality may be an issue compared to Australian made glass .!!! Basically You need high SER with the lower SEA as an ideal choice . From my experience with over 40 years in the window tinting industry here in Tasmania that the fully reflective film I often use ; particularly on double glazing ; is a number one choice ; then secondly the less reflective MEP films neutral based film either in the suggested medium grade as generally the two films the manufacturers suggest in their guide lines As single glazing goes , between the full reflective or secondly the darker neutral ( a cross between the medium neutral and full reflective films ) I’d be interested in see the data on the ceramic film choice for me to compare to out of interest . The three films I’ve mention are by no means the only choices but many other factors comes into play that need to be taken into consideration . Much more on the subject but hope this may offer some interest to discuss further . Protek window tinting & blinds (Tas)

You are most welcome, I have always said that I haven't been put on this earth to "Hug" toilets, so I'am wondering who is going to clean all of these Bathrooms. Our two kids a boy and a girl had the upstairs "apartment" which they and all their friends loved. I have added a timber stair case for fun, there's plenty of space but you will need to decide what you want to do in the attic and place the stairs to open up into a tall space. I have also turned one of the ensuites into a powder room. Your Jacaranda's only drop once a year!, you used to be able to trim them by 25% each year, you would need to check with your council, we were on the lower North Shore, I think you should consider the patio side of the house and make better use of that, is the front deck something you plan on adding because of aspect, and plant some tall growing hedge ready for the apartments. Our kids Attic desk/study space over looked our pool in the rear garden. With respect to using the formal rooms for bedrooms, you will find that once you have your large family/alfresco and the kids have their upstairs space if you still feel you need it, it would make a great office. You spend most of the time there only using only using the front room in the evening for watching movies etc. I have had another play with my floor plan, I think if your wife sees this you may be in trouble, it's a Master Suite, the free standing bath in the window alcove with white timber shutters for sun and privacy control..... Iam' adding a couple of photos of our old Federation which wasn't protected, when we sold it the new owners removed all of the Fret work & posts replacing them with simple timber posts. The front rooms which we didn't use very much once we opened up the rear rooms into a family area. The room with the Bay window had a Baby grand sitting there, we sold the piano before we took the photo. Cheers