I love the option to work in a private office while still feeling connected to the larger open plan space. And who doesn't want a huge blackboard to creatively brainstorm?

Hi @Lindel, The easy answer to your question e-screens. Can you put screens in front of the windows in the other gabled half of your frontage (where you have the drapes)? - You may not be able to coordinate with the blue screens in the dining room. If this is the case, then you might consider sacrificing them to the cause. It would also open up your choices with regard to selection of fabrics for the Romans. The relative cost of e-screens is fairly minor and will be more than offset by the wow effect of the statement you'll make with some nice Romans, and at the same time provide a uniform exterior projection across your entire house frontage. I'd strongly suggest 'pelmets' with the Roman Treatments. Yes. - It will add to the overall cost but it really would tie it all in. I would suggest you do not have your Roman's and pelmets in the same fabric. There are many coordinated fabrics as options from reputable Australian suppliers. Do the job properly with someone who will custom make Traditional Soft Roman's (as opposed to 'Hard Roman's' aka Casual Romans, Beach Blinds. If not within budget today better to wait; than to settle for second best. Properly lined custom made Romans + e-screens with pelmets, are going to save you on heating costs. (I have them through my own house, replacing some pre-existing verticals and it did make a big difference to my comfort in winter and $$$ saved on my heating bill). Here's an example of a Soft Roman with a single pelmet tying the treatments across three windows together: Above: Traditional Soft Roman Blinds (Lined) with a single pelmet tying the three windows together. Treatment variation: 4 pelmets completing the treatments for 4 windows. Alternatively, depending on the spacing between your windows, three separate pelmets could be used (marginally more cost - fabric for the returns/sides). Personally, I would go for a straight pelmet box for a more formal projection (rather than concave edged pelmets pictured above in your space). Pelmets can also be varied in fascia depth and depending on the height of the window. I would suggest min 20, 25 or maximum 30cm height. Ours look great with 20cm fascias. - Go for 'coordinated' rather than same fabric, to really set it off, along with high quality flange cord trim. You'll find a lot of the images that come up in your 'Roman Searches' from Oz, 'land' you on US Treatment search results; most of which are unlined and tend to have that 'saggy' look. You'll find more images of Traditional Soft Roman's raiding the photo archives of the Houzz sites in Europe. (although there are a number of excellent images here here on Houzz Oz). We recommend Warwick Fabrics, Charles Parsons, James Dunlop (Mokum/Pegasus), Nettex. Jump on their websites, view their collections. In most cases you will be able to order cuttings at no charge. - You'll be able to touch and feel and see how they will look in your home. Don't rush. Take your time as getting it right contributes greatly to the impact and projection of the vision you realise for the overall room. Above: Another example of a soft roman but without pelmets. It suits well in this interior, top-fixed to the ceiling (which would not be the case in your room). The above image also lacks the formal projection (or at least 'transitional') that you need for your space. In the above image, it is also worth noting that when viewed closer-up the head-rail is far more noticeable, and given the proximity of your windows to the dining table, far better covered over by pelmet(s). You will literally 'warm the cockles' of your dining guest's hearts during winter with the extra insulation that pelmets add to the treatment. Finally, this from Charles Parsons via the Window Coverings Association of Australia (WCAA) may prove enlightening: Energy Savings - Window Fact Sheet (via WCAA) All the best and do make sure you post the before/after shots, whatever solution you land on. Nancy.

Californian Bungalow, brick so probably Sydney not Melbourne, but the casement windows are throwing me off as is the unusual porch design?! You've got a gem! ; D Otherwise the architrave shape and any other remaining original interior features could further clarify for you.

I was just looking over all the advice and the drawings that have been done for me showing how paint would look in various places. Thank you so much everyone for the time and help that you have given me - plus your honest opinions. I have decided that over the long term, all of the raw timber on the walls will go, but I may also remove a section of the wall joining kitchen to loungeroom. I am not sure whether it will be removed and sheeted or whether it will be sheeted over in some places, and painted in others. What I decide is going to determine what the architraves and window frames look like, because to sheet over the timber means that the current architraves will not be thick (deep) enough. A carpenter has already suggested just using painted MDF due to the difficulty in getting timber architraves at present and their cost. These are decisions that I am not ready to make yet. I have no idea whether it would be best to keep timber window frames and door frames or whether to just have white. Your opinion on this would be appreciated too. For now, the lounge room and entry wall will be painted. The undercoat will start to tell me whether all white or black and white is better. I have a painter coming tomorrow to start. I will be doing some painting too, but I know he will prepare it a lot better than me.