Thanks for the comments guys. Space available was 5.4m (Length) x 1.16m (Internal Width) In order to give it that complete luxurious look and feel without blowing the budget we had to improvise on a few items. Architect originally had specified custom make on vanity and a shower base which were a lot more costly and less aesthetically pleasing. 1. Vanity - Original price from architect and supplier Custom build - including basin and fixtures $4,000 Vanity was purchased from local hardware store off the floor with under counter basin a. Vanity - $899 b. Handles powder coated from chrome to matte black cost $30 c. Cut out under count basin and fix FC sheet under stone $18 FC sheet plus time d. Over counter basin and tap ware $450 e. Glue and caulk to secure basin $50 Total Price - $1,447 TOTAL SAVING - $2,553 These types of solutions can help save money and also time in sourcing custom products, if you would like more information please do not hesitate to contact us. We would also love to hear from you guys about any projects you have done or ideas. Smith and Sons - Williamstown

Hi Rach163 So the splashback is along the wall behind the stove? And is full height to the ceiling? No overhead cabinets there? Certainly for an all-white kitchen, and a very small wood-element on the table, I'd suggest a feature colour splashback. There's a few ways you could make it pop - a colour such as a rich red, or a striking (but not bright) green, or even a blue would work well. We used colour-backed glass for our splashback in our all-white (but dark benchtop) kitchen, which is low maintenance and looks very "rich". It's a red (burgundy?) feature "wall" below overhead cabinets on two sides of our mostly L-shaped kitchen, and we also put it under the island bench/table, to tie the two together. The other idea that struck me is that you have a view to the outside (albeit a covered courtyard dining area now?). That made me think of a mirror to reflect the view, or at least the light - so something like a polished stainless steel. Perhaps in sections or strips with brushed steel, to reduce maintenance :-) For the lighting, we used an led strip under our overhead cabinets, either side of the range-hood, and around the corner to where our sink is. You could do something similar with a narrow aluminium channel either at the ceiling (probably too high) or at range-hood level with an led strip (a waterproof one!) inside it. It's nearly invisible when not on, just a crisp brushed/polished metal line, but gives a really bright uniform light across the whole bench area, and no shading issues with the main room lights behind you. If you wanted real wow, get a multi-colour led strip that can be colour changed (and be dimmed) to suit your needs and moods. And if you wanted to freak people out, you can get a multi-colour programmable led strip that can also do things like active lightwaves, pulsing and respond to music and a bunch of other things :-) All of the strips are dirt cheap, unless you buy them through most Australian lighting stores :-/ We also put a dimmer led strip underneath our island benchtop, to pick up the splashback/underbench colour, and as a nice 'night-light' of an evening. Works really nicely. I've seen some people do it at the kickboard level (i.e. 140mm above the floor), to make it look like everything is floating, but I've found that only works for some kitchens. One of the benefits of controllable coloured led lighting can be that the splashback can also be white or silver, and it's the lighting that determines the perceived colour. Leds are quite directional though, great for benches but less for wider room lighting, unless you have them in a diffuser. We use led lightbulbs in four high ceiling fixtures, and one long-drop over-dining-bench light, since they are lovely and bright and warm (if chosen that way), and as the ambient light source. You can also get colour/controllable led lightbulbs but $$$. You want to think about where you want feature lighting (up or down), work lighting and ambient lighting. Think about where you will stand to work, and which lights you will be shading, which will be shining in your face, and which will actually help. We pushed around our lighting points on the design, and even over-catered on the number of fixtures, just in case we missed something. You can always disconnect a light and cover it trivially, but putting one in later or shifting one is a bit messy. Anyway, my two bits. :-) Cheers, Markus

Hello Northstar 1 thing to remember when choosing your lights .If you want the light down choose a down facing lampholder, dont drop them to low as the GLARE from the globes in your eyes every time they are on is annoying as, every lit pendant you showed had an incandescent globe so if your going to use Fluro globes they will look worse.LED globes with a cleeear glass would be best. Avoid carbon filament even though they look great its a low light output. Depending on your budget take a look at Mondoluce on line they have some amazing glass pendants from Italy and in multiple sizes.

Perfect thanks Julie! That’s a great website, loads of great options.