OK, no wonder the photo looked weird. The kitchen supplier would be able to do the whole thing for you, so you don't have to try to match anything and the hole for the basin could be cut into the bench top anywhere you want it. The only problem is the plumbing, the cheapest way to relocate that is by extending any pipes and that takes internal space from your vanity. Glad you have lived with the semi-recessed sink, I've heard many others complain. Have you checked out basins though - there is a good range of sizes and shapes now. I bought an off the shelf-vanity-for my main bathroom, but it was still made up fresh for me so I had the option of the colour, bench top colour, size and style of the basin and where I wanted it for no extra charge - have you double checked on that? Check out Laminex's range online and phone them for samples - they are very happy to do this. I went back to Laminex to save money on my kitchen reno and used the Diamond Gloss Polar White. It always looks stunning and I really love it now. Have you also checked the existing vanity will come out ok without damage to the wall tiles? Also is the floor tiled under the vanity - that will present problems for you if it has not been done. Theoretically it should be, just depends on whether corners may have been cut. Good luck with it all - oh to not have to think about budgets!!

And it's done! I did not run to ikea to get a shorter vanity, I used what I had and here's the result, ta daaa! It still need some tweaks (tiles, pull too low, push back washing machine etc) and lots of cleaning (are bathroom renovation messy or what) but I'm content with it, it's an 100% improvement! And the plumber didn't think it was too long, nor too high.. Now onto some decoration, I do fancy some pops of coral in there, what do you think? Oh , and should I have a kick-board to hide the feet? Ps: Sorry about the bad photos, my phone doesn't want to focus anymore.

It's a little unconventional badobbs, but have you considered a toilet with in-built basin and tap - these are very sustainable (although not for everyone!) and are perfect for tight spaces. https://specify.caroma.com.au/products/toilet-suites/profile/profile-5-toilet-suite-deluxe-with-integrated-hand-basin.  To answer your question, usually you need min 800-900mm or so for a fixed panel for a shower, however normally walk-in open showers are located perpendicular to a room, so that splashes and wet floors are contained to one end. Think of when you drop the shower head and it sprays water everywhere! In your case I would advise selecting a well made frameless hinged door - so you can still have a walk-in effect but a bit more protection from water spraying out everywhere. Try Reece; https://www.reece.com.au/assets/brands/244000/custom-glass-brochure-v1.pdf The vanity depth is going to be the issue here, usually we advise min 800-850mm clearance (although can go down to 700 as per Dr Retro House Calls) and can see from the plan that with an 800 bath and 700 clearance you only have 250 depth for your vanity when it's near the bath. You could get a vanity made up at 250mm deep with a semi-inset deeper basin centrally - that way you can make the vanity a little longer but with a workable basin. https://specify.caroma.com.au/products/basins/luna/contemporary-luna-semi-recessed-basin-without-tap-landing Good Luck!

I would prefer to keep the WC separate to the Bathroom as you have 3-4 kids? who will get bigger very quickly, having a powder room downstairs won't help with the morning rush to school., But it's your house so I have added a pocket door between the WC and Bathroom. I have also taken that small robe space for an extra vanity in the WC/Powder room. No width dimesion given for the WC The ensuite could use that extra entrance space as a sit down makeup and hair bench for your wife.