DIY Project: Garden Chair Makeover
Give dated and weathered garden chairs a contemporary upgrade this long weekend with these easy tips from a DIY expert
Looking for a bit of a project over the long weekend? Why not give those old timber chairs lying idle at the back of the garden shed a makeover? Natasha Dickins, a DIY specialist at Little Red Industries, talks you through the process.
So how do I transform a tired and dated piece such as this one? I have a three-step formula:
1. Remove one thing: Take away the thing that’s broken or dates the piece the most – in this case, the rotted timber slats.
2. Add an element to make it more modern: I’ve added a new colour to the metal frame. Simply remove surface rust with a wire brush, wipe clean and spray paint.
3. Improve the experience: I’ve sanded and finished the surface of the replacement timber slats to give it a more interesting texture.
1. Remove one thing: Take away the thing that’s broken or dates the piece the most – in this case, the rotted timber slats.
2. Add an element to make it more modern: I’ve added a new colour to the metal frame. Simply remove surface rust with a wire brush, wipe clean and spray paint.
3. Improve the experience: I’ve sanded and finished the surface of the replacement timber slats to give it a more interesting texture.
Tools and materials
- measuring tape
- 18-millimetre-thick DAR pine (dressed treated pine) slats in widths of 42 millimetres, 64 millimetres, 96 millimetres and 140 millimetres. See cut list in step one for lengths needed.
- handsaw or drop saw
- pliers or multi-tool
- hammer
- wire brush, scraper and safety glasses
- spray paint for metal that treats and prevents rust (I used White Knight Paints‘ acrylic enamel Squirts paint in ‘Gloss Dusk Grey’)
- mask
- drill with an appropriately sized bit (check the diameter of existing holes in your original chair slats)
- sanding block with 80 and 180-grit abrasive paper
- Monocel Clear Timber Varnish in Satin
- mini roller with tray
- new galvanised nuts and bolts (check the diameter and length to match existing holes in the chair frames)
- spanner
Step 1: Measure the width of your existing chair slats and cut your new slats to length using a handsaw or drop saw. I cut the replacement chair slats at 550 millimetre lengths to match my original chair, using different timber widths to give the chair a more contemporary look. My cut list was:
- 2 lengths in 42-millimetre-wide timber
- 1 length in 64-millimetre-wide timber
- 1 length in 96-millimetre-wide timber
- 3 lengths in 140-millimetre-wide timber.
Step 2: Dismantle the chair
Use pliers to loosen and remove the nuts and bolts, and remove the old slats. Knock stubborn bolts out with a hammer if necessary.
With this chair, some of the fasteners were rusted closed. I knocked off the deteriorated timber around them so I had room to work on the nuts and bolts.
Use pliers to loosen and remove the nuts and bolts, and remove the old slats. Knock stubborn bolts out with a hammer if necessary.
With this chair, some of the fasteners were rusted closed. I knocked off the deteriorated timber around them so I had room to work on the nuts and bolts.
Step 3: Clean the frames
Brush off dirt, flaking paint and surface rust with a wire brush (you may need to use a scraper for any stubborn patches of rust). Make sure you are wearing safety glasses as the brush can flick grit up towards your eyes.
Brush off dirt, flaking paint and surface rust with a wire brush (you may need to use a scraper for any stubborn patches of rust). Make sure you are wearing safety glasses as the brush can flick grit up towards your eyes.
Step 4: Seal the frames with spray paint
Lightly spray metal paint on one side, leave to dry for about 15 minutes, then turn the frames to spray the other side, working in sections to apply up to three coats.
Tip: Work in an open area with good ventilation, wear a mask, and be patient with the drying times to ensure a smooth finish.
Lightly spray metal paint on one side, leave to dry for about 15 minutes, then turn the frames to spray the other side, working in sections to apply up to three coats.
Tip: Work in an open area with good ventilation, wear a mask, and be patient with the drying times to ensure a smooth finish.
Step 5: Position the first slat
Start by attaching the widest slat to the front of the chair frame. Turn the slat upside down, measure 30 millimetres from the two ends, then position the metal frames on the marks to transfer the position of the holes with a pencil. Also mark front and back, left and right. Drill the holes in the slat and attach it to the chair frame.
Start by attaching the widest slat to the front of the chair frame. Turn the slat upside down, measure 30 millimetres from the two ends, then position the metal frames on the marks to transfer the position of the holes with a pencil. Also mark front and back, left and right. Drill the holes in the slat and attach it to the chair frame.
Step 6: Mark up the remaining slats
Work from the front of the chair to mark up and drill the remaining slats and armrests. Loosely attach the slats to the chair frame one at a time with nuts and bolts. Once the chair is assembled, use a pencil to mark the order of each slat then remove the slats for sanding and to smooth any breakout from drilling.
Tip: The metal frames may have bent out of shape over time, so assume the holes may not line up exactly symmetrically and use them as a template to individually mark up the slats.
Work from the front of the chair to mark up and drill the remaining slats and armrests. Loosely attach the slats to the chair frame one at a time with nuts and bolts. Once the chair is assembled, use a pencil to mark the order of each slat then remove the slats for sanding and to smooth any breakout from drilling.
Tip: The metal frames may have bent out of shape over time, so assume the holes may not line up exactly symmetrically and use them as a template to individually mark up the slats.
Step 7: Smooth the slats
Keep the slats in order, and round over the top edges and corners using a sanding block with 80-grit abrasive paper. Then sand them all over using 180-grit paper, being careful not to sand off the sequence markings you made in the last step.
Tip: Rounding over the edges prevents splinters, makes the chair more comfortable and gives a more professional finish. Alternatively, use a small router to round over the top edges of the slats, finishing the corners by hand.
Keep the slats in order, and round over the top edges and corners using a sanding block with 80-grit abrasive paper. Then sand them all over using 180-grit paper, being careful not to sand off the sequence markings you made in the last step.
Tip: Rounding over the edges prevents splinters, makes the chair more comfortable and gives a more professional finish. Alternatively, use a small router to round over the top edges of the slats, finishing the corners by hand.
Step 8: Seal the timber
Wipe away the dust then use a mini roller to apply two coats of varnish to the slats. Start by applying it to the back, leave it to dry, then apply varnish to the top and sides.
Tip: Lightly sanding the timber between coats with a 180-grit sandpaper will give the timber a better finish and protection.
Wipe away the dust then use a mini roller to apply two coats of varnish to the slats. Start by applying it to the back, leave it to dry, then apply varnish to the top and sides.
Tip: Lightly sanding the timber between coats with a 180-grit sandpaper will give the timber a better finish and protection.
Step 9: Reassemble the chair
Attach the slats and armrests to the frames with new nuts and bolts, tapping in the bolts and tightening the nuts with a spanner.
Attach the slats and armrests to the frames with new nuts and bolts, tapping in the bolts and tightening the nuts with a spanner.
Tell us
Do you have a DIY project planned for the long weekend? Tell us about it in the Comments below. And don’t forget to like, share or save the images in this story. Join the conversation.
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Read more DIY stories
Do you have a DIY project planned for the long weekend? Tell us about it in the Comments below. And don’t forget to like, share or save the images in this story. Join the conversation.
More
Read more DIY stories
With a bit of time and know-how, giving an old piece such as this a fresh new look is easy. The key is to approach your DIY with a designer’s eye rather than simply painting it.