Hello, Sorry in advance to bring up an old thread/subject, However looking for any additional advice/direction i can get on comment from midesign0401 below... mldesign0401 In Victoria a range hood is a requirement in new kitchens. No longer is it acceptable for a simple exhaust unit, rather it must now be ducted to external air. So your range hood must be flued either through your roof space or via a horizontal duct to an external wall. It must be installed and signed off, and your house insurance will require your sign off document if your house insurance is to cover damage due to fire, or you will find yourself in a predicament. The provision for installing a range hood above a gas cooktop is a minimum placement of 650mm above your cooktop, and 605 for an electric hob. Including induction. Hope this helps. Our new home got handed over to us by builder just before Christmas (21/12/2018), We are still waiting for under mount rangehood to be installed into our kitchen, The house was delivered with no rangehood as the hole they provided was to close to accommodate rangehood selection, After a couple of visits we have been told that cupboards are to be removed and replaced, Which we are still waiting for as the 'cabinetmaker is very busy', My inquiry is to see whether there is a building code reference/link I can forward on to them to hurry the process up, Also concerned that insurance would not cover our new house if there happened to be a fire Thanks in advance, We look forward o nay help, Regards, Ken and Nadia Buxton

@jazz jazz , Hi , first off from my point of view , I understand you about huntsmen , 46 yo male here and I'm poop scared of them !!! , my mate on the other hand will pick them up and relocate them to tree :) . I understand what you say too about the tram part that your house part is priority first. I was just curious to maybe finding out if you eventually planned to "show" the tram off , either family or friends might be interested in information about the tram that you can talk about , that was my main reason sort of for posting. Any information about it I can gladly pass on. Now about the Real Estate person saying 94 or 96 , if that meant the number then I could narrow it down. Number 294 is in South Aust. still in operative condition where as number 296 was sold off even before I was born so if anything remains of it in any shape I'd be surprised. Above the saloon door in top photo on the top arched frame , hard to see , and I don't know how to pin point it , is black numbering , if your saloon door area is intact , you will locate the car number there. On the front of the apron the number may be located too but your one has been painted on already and one can hardly expect another to scratch off a bit of paint to reveal a silly number :). As I do with everyone I more than respect privacy , but one other way I could possibly check on a number would be the property locale , generalised area as such like Ballarat or Bendigo , don 't like asking that though. I take it that it's in Vic , maybe country vic , if East I have a pic of number 260 at Noojee that was set up with a house in such manner. Other than that my mate likes beer and his ears pricked up when I read your post out to him. Good luck with it all , Green and Cream Color scheme if going for a historic look or Chocolate and Cream as those were the 2 Color schemes W class trams have had. Old Chap.

I have been looking on Houzz and got a couple of ideas for the bedside tables (without spending anything!) .. Please let me know your opinions on the following... Attack the existing ones with a sander and take off half of the white paint, exposing the dark brown underneath, and making them look like they are meant to be shabby. Take them both out of the room and replace with a stack of vintage suitcases on the door side and an old weathered timber folding chair on the window side (got these in storage so wouldn't cost anything!). The chair would have to have something on top like a box to hide the usual bedside table clutter in, I guess. 3. Any other suggestions? Don't want to spend any money here if I can help it! I have access to plenty of old pallets which people seem to make amazing things out of but don't know if that would be too rustic in this room?

Hi there Dave, sorry for not responding sooner, I have been a bit unwell. I would like to add the following ideas. 1) You mention going to a kitchen company and showing your current kitchen plan, the better thing for you to have done would to have taken your floor plan with measurements and asked them what they would suggest, as long as they didn't want to charge you. This way you would get more ideas, not just them politely agreeing hoping to get your business, and why not, 2) I would contact several builders to come on site and give you their ideas of what needs to be done and advise if you would need to involve council and the building costs involved in doing this. The builders will have their own trades electrical and plumbing that work as a team 3) You mention flat packs, they are a great option and can save you a lot of money, Bunnings will do a kitchen plan and cost in store at no charge, Ikea will do the same but not sure about any charges. You can also go online to both and work out a plan, but I would strongly suggest you speak face to face them as they know their product. Bunnings run in store programs where they show you how to assemble their cabinets, both stores have video tutorials, believe me it's worth watching as flat pack anything can be a nightmare. If you can assemble your own cabinets in your own time it will save you a.lot of money, starting sooner than later would be a very good idea I didn't get up to mentioning in planning the layout of your kitchen that the larger the cabinets you use will also save money, ie 2 x 900 as against 3 x 600, the cost per unit plus instead of paying for 3 cabinets to be installed it's 2. It's also makes for a simpler looking design. Most of our Bunnings kitchen is made up of 900 units 2 x Drawers & 900 units 3 x drawer. The exception is 800 cabinet for the sink. 5) Cook top, I would strongly suggest you work a 900 into your kitchen (this would mean having to use a smaller cabinet either side or just between the cook top and the wall). 900 cook tops give superior space to use especially when using large pots/woks and fry pans, they also help to protect laminated bench tops from accidental put down and burns, 6) Range hood, the best look for your kitchen wouldn't be a large stainless wall mounted unit and that's good news as the intergrated ones in over head cabinets would not only look better, give more storage and would cost less. 7) The Island, you have been trying to decide what size, well if you don't have plumbing installed, the island can be free standing with or with out plinths and can be moved if you decide you need more space. You do need to have a couple of power points but make sure they have a longer connection. Our Island is 2.7 x 1200 and has both a cook top and oven with power points and can be moved approx 500m in each direction due to having longer connections. 8) Bench tops, you mention laminate due to cost, we had that problem what with the size of the island. So we went with Plywood (not Marine) We went to Mr Plywood who when the next delivery came in chose a piece with a beautiful grain, had it cut to size and delivered. The plywood sheet came in a 3 meter length but not all do, we had enough to do the sink bench and a top for a tressel table & legs my better half made. cost with delivery 2hrs approx $400. We did a shadow line bench top which had a smaller size white set back under lay. You need to use a good two pack pot sealant on the Plywood. Finally I don't know where I got the picture of the retro coloured kitchen cabinets, but look online at both Bunnings and Ikea cheers