Thank you hechan. No your cabinets would not go to the ceiling, but the wall of shallow cabinets would. This is because having high up storage is better than not having any at all, and they are still useful for the odd vase or Xmas serving ware etc, Also it is necessary for this walled look to look right. The other column cupboard would do the same, as I like that it looks like a column or structural element and not joinery. However, laminate sheets are typically 2400mm x 1200 so they can only go to this height before. Join is necessary, this is another reason I have placed an open shelf ut on top, ring in a timber toned material, means the Join is intentional, as hiding them often fails. As for the wall, the cabinetmaker would literally stack your carcasses on top of each other, therefore the join once again is only visible at the end, where I have also placed an open unit. No bulkhead is necessary, a 20mm shadow line is left under the ceiling level, in your case the shadow line would be the minimum distance that tour plaster strapping is. The cabinetmaker would worry about this detail, you would simply ask for floor to ceiling. Retaining any architectural features is always a plus for resale, as the homes facade will generally show definite characteristics of the homes era, and this is what potential buyers are drawn to. As a result, people interested in post war, deco or ore styled homes are always grateful for retained period details, however minimal, and infact, the ceilings are the single most appreciated element of a homes design. Ts is because is generally is what gives you the wow factor, demanding your attention instantly upon entering, and they also do not dictate or influence the interior as far as your furnishings goes. You could decorate sympathetically, or contradictory to them, and either will work. The ceiling, floors and windows are the single most desirable elements of period homes, you have the ceiling and the window, most likely beautiful hardwood floors also. These elements provide all the details you need, and a lovely back drop for a simple and sophisticated fit out. Contemporary by comparison is ever popular as mod cons and innovative materials are as equally requested as period charm. Thank you for your compliments. I pride myself on being a pragmatic designer, often good design comes from the need to work within limited parameters, such as yours. But that's easily resolved wi details at address things like maximum ceiling heights with an understanding of material restrictions, ie the panel sizes in your joinery, or understanding what the joiner needs to consider before designing for them. I have an architectural fit out background, and designed many types of firings from showrooms, magazine sets and many more private houses. I'm glad you like it.

You can always go with textured glass or slump glass,it has a more rustic look and doesn't look so modern as plain glass, it's much easier to keep clean too as it doesn't streak and there is no grout...we have a very traditional kitchen and it looks amazing,this is my laundry and is actually quite a vibrant purple with dragonflies on it because,in the laundry,why not? The kitchen is more nuetral......

Hi Sue - it’s true - lots of paint companies don’t publish the data. But every single one of them has a measurement for Lightness / Hue Family / Chroma for each paint colour. For that is the system they use to conceive, make and match each paint colour in the first place. EasyRGB includes Dulux Paint and Frazee, Taubman’s and Benjamin Moore, all available in Australia. Every paint colour has an L = Lightness, C = Chroma h° = hue angle° So you know how light or dark, how colourful or near neutral and in which Hue Family each sits. In this system, consider a minimum difference in Chroma of 2, rather than 0.2. found in the images I posted above, between whites/off-whites. Were you to use Benjamin Moore, many are found in the Colorographies at The Land of Color. Taubmans themselves only publish Light Reflectance Value LRVf) each colour but nothing else. RGB or #Hex are the same and only useful for making digital swatches of a colour. No use to a householder. So,,,, if you fancy a Sherwin Williams product or Farrow and Ball colour, you can find all the important values for each colour and the nearest matches in Dulux, Frazee, Taubman’s, Benjamin Moore etc. on EasyRGB If you are comparing 3 very similar colours, you can consider each of their attributes separately on EasyRGB. Quick. Simple. Fun. 🌈 See where Taubman’s Quill sits in the Yellow Hue Family at 94° 🌈

Hi Nancy, Just thought I'd offer a few thoughts for you to consider. How much you change depends on your overall budget and how much of the house needs updating. My guess is that you wont be changing the window frames so why don't you include this colour in the overall colour sceme? I agree that the joinery looks to be of really good quality and it would be a real shame to dispose of them. I fear if you update the cabinets with a new finish, the granite will let down the overall updating. While these images may not be the right tone or style, I would suggest considering green cabinets and a light or grey bench top. The green on the cabinets could be paint or 'whitewash' if you want the Hamptons vibe. You could also mix and match and have green lowers with white high level cabinets and look at a 'hand made' look wall tile. Good luck, C.